Got a project I’m going to be working on. Vacant house had a water pipe freeze and burst. Problem not spotted for a length of time (as in 6″ water in the back bedroom which means crawlspace was a pool). They stopped the water flow, sucked the water out of the crawl, pulled up the carpets… and then let the house sit another 2 years or so.
Mold is visible on the subfloor and walls. I’m planning on ripping out all the drywall and particleboard subfloor. Don’t know the full extent of the water damage until I do.
I’m looking for suggestions on killing the mold so that it won’t come back. Suggestions?
jt8
“Real difficulties can be overcome; it is only the imaginary ones that are unconquerable. ” –Theodore N. Vail
Replies
If its behind walls and under floors where you need to kill, I've heard sprayed foam like Icynene will kill the mold because of the spraying temperature and it should contain what's there.
Bleach kills most things.
Be careful opening up walls. You ought to tent off the area you are working on and separate it from the rest of the house. You could contaminate the whole house when you open the walls/floor, otherwise.
Best of luck.
Be careful opening up walls. You ought to tent off the area you are working on and separate it from the rest of the house. You could contaminate the whole house when you open the walls/floor, otherwise.
Bob, I'm not going to move into this one until its further along. First phase of the operation is going to consist of yanking all the drywall, subfloor particleboard, and insulation out. Then I will have a better overall picture of what I've got myself into.
Praying that I don't find too much rot. If it looks sound and no obvious mold inside the walls, I was wondering if maybe I could just spray the whole sheebang with an anti-mold paint (I think Kilz and/or Zinnsers has one). Then put new insulation, drywall and subfloor in.
jt8
"Real difficulties can be overcome; it is only the imaginary ones that are unconquerable. " --Theodore N. Vail
Are you trying to prevent new mold or get rid of old mold?Where are you located. Be careful putting a vapor barrier paint in the wrong place (like BIN) depending on your climate.
Are you trying to prevent new mold or get rid of old mold?
Where are you located. Be careful putting a vapor barrier paint in the wrong place (like BIN) depending on your climate.
I'm in IL, so we get anything from 100+F with 99% humidity to -40F with 60 mph winds. It will be a couple weeks before I can get in there to get a really good look at the situation, but I'm trying to be proactive so that I can hit the ground running. Hopefully the water pipe breaking was the only serious source or moisture in the house. That would suggest that once its cleaned up, there won't be another outbreak.
This is my own project, which I will eventually live in for a couple years. I tend to lean towards overkill so that I don't have to re-do stuff I've already done (I'll spend twice as much time doing something the first time to save myself from going back and doing it a second time).
Hitting the cavities with anti-mold paint would just be an overkill measure to discourage any further mold issues. Or possibly one of the other sprays mentioned in this thread would be a better item to spray it with.jt8
"Real difficulties can be overcome; it is only the imaginary ones that are unconquerable. " --Theodore N. Vail
Im treadin water here but I got a price from an exterminator for termites this past summer and he saw a white mold growing in the crawl space. He offered a cheap price to kill it like 200 dollars on that deal. Here they come out free and for some reason will often tell you how they do it . Well, he couldnt give me a clearance letter on termites so he told me how to do it . Pretty cheap advice and I didnt hire him.
Tim
After you kill the mold, you might want to take a look at this company. I watched some of their demo's, etc at the JLC show last spring. I have not had a situation come up where I needed to use their product but what they offered was interesting.
http://www.fosterproducts.com/default.aspx?PageID=mold_constr&cat_id=174
The mold killing formula I use calls for 1/2 gal. hydrogen peroxide, 1/2 gal. white vinegar, and 1 cup boric acid.
Regards,
Scooter
"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
do you just spray this on and leave it or do you have to clean it off. scrub brush ? sponge? follow up with straight water? I dont do mold abatement[?] but my mothers house has some white mold under it from a busted pipe awile back. many thanks!
Spray it on and leave it.Regards, Scooter"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Here is a picture of the Sanctuary at our church. I have hit it with household bleach three times in strengths from 1 to 3 water to full strength. Last time used disolved liquid dishwasher soap, will see.
We are going to have to run the a/c more. This is the peak of a 20" or so ceiling and there is no ventilation. Does not appear to be any leaks. Wall is block with plaster and brick outside. Roof was done with no overhang but do not think that is the problem. I am going to try the peroxide/vinegar/boric acid formula suggested and then paint with appropriate primer.
If you keep it dry, the mold can't grow, and can't come back.
If it gets damp, you'll get mold, no matter what you do. Mold spores are everywhere.
You are correct to rip out all drywall, insulation and perhaps the subfloor (after two years). You can kill the mold with a bleach solution but you should also wipe it down with a mild detergent.
After that I would consider spraying the affected area with a Boracare solution. The Boracare will kill mold, and it prevents termites and carpenter ants, and it is an anti-corrosive for your steel fasteners. The carrier in Boracare will make it penetrate deep into the wood. It is basically non-toxic and you can paint over it.
My parent's house in New Orleans flooded after Katrina and my brother ripped out all the drywall, carpet, cabinets, etc. I sent a couple of gallons of Boracare to him and he diluted it 50/50 with water and he sprayed it on all the framing and exposed wood.
A large dehumidifier is running there now...
See below for more resources:
http://www.buildingscience.com/resources/mold/default.htm
Billy
>>Got a project I'm going to be working on.
If you're working for hire, and have to ask these basic questions, you're in way over your head and could be assuming huge liabilities.
BTW, if you go ahead and follow the bleach route, don't kill (or injure) yourself inhaling sprayed bleach vapor.
A freind of mine is into plant sciences. He uses Hydrated Lime to discourage mold. Like bleach (chlorine) it kills indiscriminately, but unlike chlorine it remains a solid and stays where you put it instead of gassing off. Great for bugs too, they lick it and die. Like bleach, is very corrosive to skin, so treat it accordingly. He mixes it with warm water in one of those pump plant sprayers. Keep the pressure up or it will clog. Mold flourishes in an acidic enviroment, Hydrated Lime is the opposite.
I'd forgo the bleach mixture options, Foster, (the link someone else posted) makes a product specifically designed for removal of mold.
I don't know much about it, other then given the current state of litigation related to mold I'd hire someone to at least come look at it and give me an assessment of what I'm up against, that's if it was my house. If it was a clients or a house I was going to re-hab and sell I'd want to make damn sure I was clear any liability.
Most of the mold suits are probably overblown by greedy lawyers, see the tavern for that discussion, and most molds are not "toxic black mold" but why risk it?
I talked to a contractor working on our next door neighbor's house who had mold. He said, previously, he was contracted to remove mold from a "state government building." He said in order to get the contract he had to attend a state mandated, 2 day program, to be certified. Has anyone heard about a state requirement? Or was he just a good salesman?