Have been asked to come to a job and help out so the homeowner can move in. First thing that I noticed about the bathroom was that the origianl GC had put glass block in between studs and mortared them in place. I cannot see how this would be acceptable but I do not know about glass blocks. Seems the 2×6 movement over time would crumble the mortar. It is an exterior wall.
I cannot see how this is standard practice,..but I have been wrong before
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
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Replies
>>>Have been asked to come to a job and help out so the homeowner can move in.
It's a bit unclear what your responsibilities are. Sure, the flaky glass block job stinks, but is that reason enough to stop the HO moving in? Moreover, why is the HO living outside their own house? Is this new construction? If so, then someone needs to talk to the glass block installer.....Please clarify....
Scott.
I have been asked to work with the current job manager because his performance has been questionable. The HO feel that if I wwere there, things might start to get back on course.
I do not want to go in and point out his work without knowing about this glass block situation.
Please do not read into this too much.....is the practice of mortaring glass block inside a stud frame frame normal?
No, it's not. It should be trimmed on the outside with stop of some sort. I usually rip 3/4" thick strips from dry, treated 2x stock for this purpose. Primed, caulked and painted. If the trim is cedar or something, I use matching wood.
Mortar will crumble.~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
I'd say it's a total hack job. Like Ted says, there should be a 1X frame that the blocks are set into with mortar/grout. There is also usually a drip flashing set into the grout under the bottom row of blocks.A key principle of window installation is that you are supposed to be able to remove and replace window units. Having the blocks grouted into the rough framing is an "interesting" variation of this principle.Good luck,Scott.PS... we've got a number of commercially made GB windows in our house and they are still exposed because our lousy contractor (me) hasn't got around to trimming them yet. Let me know if pics would help.
Edited 4/10/2009 12:10 pm by Scott
I looked closer at them today. Unfortunatley the guy that did it is childhood friend of mine.
The bottom "sill" of rough framing is not evne primed. Even worse, it slopes backward to the inside of the house. It wont last a year. With water intrusion the framing will move even more often...mortar will crack, more movment = rot. Even worse, on one side a valley has direct aim at another set of GB windows.
I will speak to the homeowner, (who is the brother of the current GC). I will tell him my concerns and let him decide.
I personally love the GB windows that come with a metal frame. The Glass blocks slip inot a plastic sleeve and slip into a compartment. You merely have to silicone the outside, (carefully). I have done about ten of those and they are virtually idiot proof.
>>>Unfortunatley the guy that did it is childhood friend of mine.Ewwwww....>>>The bottom "sill" of rough framing is not evne primed. Even worse, it slopes backward to the inside of the house.Double Ewwwww.....>>>I will speak to the homeowner, (who is the brother of the current GC). I will tell him my concerns and let him decide.Holy smokes, you are walking many fine lines.....good luck with all that mess....Scott.
yes it is sticky. But I was brought in for a reason.
the way i now do it.... after seeing a GB window laid like regular brick in an all brick opening... and seeing the GB crack because they were the weak link in the movement of the building...
I now build my GB panels on a flat surface with the spacers in place i then use the plastic straping you would see around a pallet of material being shipped... i use this strapping with the propper tool to hold then all together... i then use the proper glass block sealant (caulk) and seal/bond all joints on one side when dry i flip and do the other side... I now have a window unit that i treat just like it was a standard pane of glass... in the case of place'n it in a brick opening... i shim it into place and then use a poly caulk on both sides to set it... this way it can move some via the caulk...
lowes sells a track system that i guess would do the same as my strapping material.. but it has a 3/4" plastic lip i don't like...
P... sounds like you stepped into a fun gig :)
I now build my GB panels on a flat surface with the spacers in place i then use the plastic straping you would see around a pallet of material being shipped... i use this strapping with the propper tool to hold then all together... i then use the proper glass block sealant (caulk) and seal/bond all joints on one side when dry i flip and do the other side.
That's how they come from my supplier, except with white mortar joints. Damn, those things can get heavy! I installed one last year that took 3 people to lift it into place, and we had to buld a sled to get it from my van to the opening. That was a fun little project. =)~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!
Unfortunatley the guy that did it is childhood friend of mine.
A good friend will tell you when your fly is open, and that guys fly is wide open!~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!
Hahahaha... great analogy.Scott.