Does anyone glue down their roof sheathing? I don’t but I think it would hold down the roof in a hurricane situation.
You get out of life what you put into it……minus taxes.
Marv
Does anyone glue down their roof sheathing? I don’t but I think it would hold down the roof in a hurricane situation.
You get out of life what you put into it……minus taxes.
Marv
Learn how to fight wood-boring beetles and prevent home infestations with expert advice from Richard D. Kramer, an authority in pest control.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 81%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
"I don't but I think it would hold down the roof in a hurricane situation."
Wouldn't that just make a bigger sail?? Most of the hurricane damage I've seen on TV (I don't live in Hurricane country) shows entire roof structures missing. Gluing the sheathing seems like a moot point. Regardless though, once the wind gets under it, if the sheating doesn't give, the whole thing would then go as a single unit anyway, so I'm not sure it makes a difference.
I'm just a DIY though, so whaddaiknow?
We had a minor tornado here 3-4 years ago. Hardly any shingles got taken off and even less sheathing. But, quite a few truss systems landed intact on houses a few blocks away.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
I think sheathing gluing is an accepted way to improve hurricane strength. on existing homes they recommend a bead like a fillet weld on each side of the rafter. Google on it and dade county.
Also the 1 ft edge of asphault shingles is also silicone seal glued.
"Also the 1 ft edge of asphault shingles is also silicone seal glued."That would be kind of goofy since silicone won't do much to glue asphalt.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
In some Simpson literature I've seen straps that start at the studs go over the plates and over and around the trusses. I think this would hold down the trusses. I was just looking for an idea to hold down the sheathing if wind got in from the soffits.
I was also thinking about ICF construction. You can imbed steal straps into the concrete where the top plates would normally be and wrap them around the trusses. This would hold them down in very high winds.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
My point exactly- glued or unglued- the sheathing didn't make the difference. Just a giant sail so the whole roof left as an assembly. Now if you are going to tie the trusses to the ICF with steel straps- then I would think it would matter. But again-whaddaiknow.
sheathing is not the problem usually. What is a problem is the roof to rafter connection.. there is a good article in Fine Home Buildings book on roofing about the strength of that connection.
Bottom line the strongest connection is lag bolts. Lag bolts just driven thru the trusses provide a 2783 # resistance to uplift whereas properly nailing the rafter on provides 208 pounds of resistance.
No you didn't read that wrong, 2783 pounds compared to 208 pounds. more than ten times as strong!
If you insist on nailing it you can use Simpsons's H7 rafter ties and get 2726 pounds of resistance to uplift however that requires a total of 22 nails per connector compared to jamming a single 3/8ths x 8" lag in with an impact driver.
To gain additional strength you could predrill the hole for the lag bolt or combine the H6& the H7 together (which is another 12 nails)
The ultimate strength would be to build the frame with ICF's. They have a 200 MPH wind rating in a stand alone condition. Provide wonderful thermal protection from hot (or cold) weather and are impervious to damage from termits etc.. (not to mention how quiet they are and their fire ratings)..
"What is a problem is the roof to rafter connection.."Did you mean roof framing to wall connection?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Yes
HOLY MOLY - CALL 911. GET AN AMBULANCE HERE QUICK - I'M HAVING A HEART ATTACK AND MY BRAIN IS IMPLODING AT THE SAME TIME. I'M NOT GONNA MAKE IT - HELP ME - HELP ME.
FRENCHY ANSWERED A QUESTION WITH ONE WORD. OMFG - I CAN FEEL THE HOT BREATH OF THE FOUR HORSEMEN'S STEEDS BLOWING ON ME. I'M SCARED - SOMEBODY HOLD ME. .........................http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Not only that, he admitted a mistake!frenchy, let me shake your hand and pound your back, you're almost a good old boy now!!!
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
It is an acceptable way to strengthen a home's roof. Especially for older homes as a retrofit. The State of Florida teaches it in their mitigation class.
Do a search for "Holding onto your roof" by Clemson University. Good information.
If your truly concerned about the place leaving you during the next hurricane, you could do what is required for mobile homes in some areas.
Ground anchors -- sizeable steel augers that go a few feet down if turned with enough force -- with sufficiently-strong steel cable that goes over the roof (but under the shingles) and is hooked to another ground anchor.
Depending on the size of the building, it might take a few of these.
That is basically what the Florida building code requires. Using rebar in concrete and Simpson type connectors you firmly tie from the foundation to the trusses. At that point the sheathing is the weak link.
The nailing schedule here ends up somewhere around 75-80 2 3/4"ring shank nails per 4x8 sheet. Glue would make it stronger but without specific engineering, you are still shooting all those nails.
In a little 29x13 addition it took me 3 tries to get the engineering for the walls and roof framing passed. (Lee County) That was in addition to engineered trusses, doors and windows.
see also , improving roof resistance about 1/2 way down
http://www.haznet.org/haz_outreach/outreach_factsheets.htm
Holding onto your roof.
http://www.ascouncil.org/news/newsroom/HUDdocs/ASC_HUD_PATH_adhesive_primer.pdfYou get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
that link was worth it just for the caulking gun extension. i'll make one of those for subfloor adhesive.
k
A link to the pdf.
http://www.ascouncil.org/news/newsroom/HUDdocs/HoldingontoYourRoof.pdf
You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
KFC,
You are right as when I first read that PDF years ago, I did the same thing!
Mike
When I did my addition I bought my framer a box of ring shank nails and told him to use them like they didn't belong to him. That plywood isn't going anywhere.
Yeah, the new Bostitch Hurriquake nails are awesome for that. And like you said, use them like they are not yours! Pulling the trigger is easy and its what, maybe pennies per nail if that!