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gorilla glue is great.
just a bit difficult to clean up before it had set.
i think that there is a new titebond that is rated as waterproof?? might be worth a look.
denatured alcohol cleans Gorilla glue up just fine...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Does teak need to be stripped of oil, like rosewood, before glue up or finishing?
Dave
Before glue-up, a wipe with acetone or lacquer thinner is helpful. Teak for exterior work is often left unfinished, but if you want to finish it, and oil-based spar varnish would be my preference.
For glue, I would use polyurethane, resorcinol, or good quality epoxy.....depends on how much exposure to the wether the glue line will get. I don't think polyurethanes are as strong as hyped, but in testing we've done here, they hold up very well to water.Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.
Thanks for the info.
I have never had occasion to use teak, but learned the hard way about the oils in rose wood.
Dave
i think that there is a new titebond that is rated as waterproof?? might be worth a look.
Yes there is a titebond rated for outdoor use, wonder if anybody has any experience with it.
I am thinking along the line of Gorilla or epoxy but I am not sure if there is a preferred glue for oily wood like teak.
I have used a lot of TB 3, the newest ext. glue on some staved porch columns, it is acceptable. I really prefer PL premium (in a caluk tube) for that operation tho', less clean up.
I have had extensive glue ups with both rosewoods and ebonies, and the wipe down often suggested is not really crucial.
Ideally, any outdoor furniture ought to be constructed to preclude the need for any adhesive, IOW, joinery is still the strongest in the long run. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
One THING at a time , Yup.
Ideally, any outdoor furniture ought to be constructed to preclude the need for any adhesive, IOW, joinery is still the strongest in the long run.
Ditto. The function of the glue is merely to fill in the capillary space so water wouldn't wick in. In that sense I am more toward polyurethane than epoxy.
Is PL Premium rated for weather exposure? The bench will sit outside all year round.
I don't know.
I do know what I have used it on and yes, it takes a licking and keeps on sticking.
As far as sealing the joinery to the elemental seepage, you are dead on right. Glue is not structure, just a bond or more so a sealer from that inevitable dampness and decay. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
One THING at a time , Yup.
I've settled on West Systems.
Been using it for all exotic glue-ups as well as for outdoor furniture. For mortise and tenon teak I'll use the 105 resin and 202 hardener. No fillers. Pretty basic.
Easy clean up?
Fpr mortise and tenon, I apply more to the mortise and just a bit on the tenon to wet the tenon down.
Usually minimal to no squeezeout.
If it's a "show joint", I'll tape it, then epoxy, then assemble. The tape keeps the squeeze from sealing the wood, thus changing its look during weatherization.
"Clean up" clean-up? Just toss the popsicle stick and the dixie cup in the trash.
Cleanup of the joints.
Thanks Mongo.
An acetone wash will remove excess squeezeout, but excess acetone can weaken the joint. I'll usually rub a joint down with a cloth dampened in acetone, it's enough for most construction.
I do know that some advocate letting the squeezeout cure, then they remove it with a chisel. I don't go that way.
When you get a feel for the quality of your joints, you can gauge the right amount to use. Squeezeout really isn't a problem for me. Except if I eat too much at the dinner table.
Except if I eat too much at the dinner table.
EWWW! Me too!
'bout time you showed up..I hadda beat all them "carpenters and such" att arm wrassilin..I bet 20 Luka can whoop yer butt..watch him, he's a sleeper cell in wrasslin. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
let's be entrophatic, you start
You dog!
I thought you were going to miss this one too.
I thought I was going to be able to make a thurs/fri show, but that fell apart.
My schedule has totally sucked the past few months.
Totally.
Lemme see, I have your $75 from last year, if we make the Mongo/Luka thing a pay-per-view, this could happen.
I'll have my guy call yours, do lunch, etc, etc...
I've been using TightBond III lately. It's a brownish colored "white glue" :-) Not sure I'm totally sold on the strength of the bond, but I kinda of backed off on using polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) as it is such a pain to work with... seems like you always either get too much and it seeps out of the joint later on during the drying process, (makes a ugly mess) or you don't get enough on and the bond is not strong... just my personal experience...
I think they may have stopped selling resesional (sp???) around here - I just don't see it in the stores any more...
I have used Lepage's polyurethane on cedar and yes it's not exactly easy to handle. Polyurethane is supposed to be more forgiving for joints that are a bit on the loose side.
Yes, resorcinol would be the old standby and yes, it would take a bit of hunting to track it down. It stains too.
I've never seen resorcinol on hardware store shelves; marine supply places may have it, but mine only stock epoxies (I'm with Mongo; West System is the only stuff I use). Suppliers to the veneer trade are reliable sources for resorcinol though....at least it's easy to get from the people I use (Veneer Systems I think it is). My harware stores do carry a 'marine' plastic resin glue....had hit and miss results with it though. He have a big box of glued up blocks ready to do some stress and water resistance tests with when the students get back in Septemeber......samples made with all the common glues.Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.
My hardware store had resorcinol as of about a year ago. Haven't looked for it recently. It is pretty expensive, though.
It is pretty expensive, though.
Several dollars, but not much in percentage of the whole product. It's been my standby for more than a few years. Zero failures, unlike the Titebond products. II didn't work as advertised, I ain't going any further.
Resorcinol will be readily available if the market's there. It is here.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
My recollection of teak is that it's a bit porous, making resorcinol a good choice. It's not as messy as poly, but you still have to mix it. It sets dark, but that may not be a problem with teak.
I've worked with lots of teak (building custom sailboats). The oiliness varies somewhat depending on the source of the teak, but it is always oily and It's always useful to wipe it down with acetone before gluing or varnishing. One has to be careful not to leave acetone "residue". In other words, use high quality acetone and keep the wipe-down rag rinsed in the acetone. You don't want to just move the oil from one spot to another. You can tell pretty easily if you are starting with acetone of good quality by putting some of it in an open container made of clear glass (like a jar) and letting it evaporate. If you see or feel anything, then it's probably not what you want to use.
Epoxy glue works great, *BUT* isn't entirely great for use outdoors. UV will eat away at the epoxy and your glue joint will slowly chalk. It's not a structural problem, since it shouldn't go very deep before being shaded by the wood and the degraded epoxy above it. It won't look great, though, if you are looking for a varnished, high-quality finish. That said, it's what I used for the exterior teak on my boat. Note that I also don't varnish any exterior teak. Too much work to keep looking good. I don't want to revisit the finish every year or so as would be required here in Florida.
Resorcinol is good also, but doesn't gap fill as well as the thickened epoxy.
No one I know uses "conventional" glues on teak. They just bond poorly.
Oh, I almost forgot. I've used Gorilla glue before. It still well but the color really clashes with that of teak and the glue joint stands out like a sore thumb. Using West epoxy and their wood filler, the color is almost exactly that of teak.
Thanks Sailor. I intend to leave the wood unfinished, just let it weather.
Looks like the West system is the way to go.
Thank you everybody for input.
I realize this is an old post but it addresses an issue I am dealing with. I sanded 2 teak outdoor furniture benches which were loose and during this process, they came apart. The only piece in place is the back and some runners. I have cleaned out the old glue and need to reassemble. I am also replacing some broken dowels. I was going to use gorilla glue because it seems some of the joints are larger than before and I thought it would expand for a tight fit. The problem with this glue is the short set up time. I really doubt I can glue the joints and reassemble all the pieces in this time frame, 10-15 minutes. So then I thought Titebond III might be the better choice but even though the label says it's Waterproof, I've read that only I and II are. Any suggestions?
Thank you all. It was helpful
Stick with the recommendations from earlier in this thread- West system is far and away the best thing for teak. Wet out both joints then use some of the adhesive filler to thicken up the mix and it has excellent gap filling properties.
It's a little expensive but it lasts forever and you will find a million uses for it.
I see they have a small package called G5 on Amazon but can I buy a small package of filler? I find epoxy difficult. Getting the proper ratio is a challenge however I have mixed Bondo correctly. How would I ensure I have equal parts. Also West, from what I read, only has a 5 minute setup time. After I glue the joints that are separated, put them together, I will need to sit the bench up to make sure it is aligned properly since there is a lot of wiggle room in the joints and then clamp. By the time I get to clamp, everything will be dry if it is 5 minutes. Can't really glue and clamp at the same time as they are all integrated. BTW...don't need it to last forever...I'm 75..LOL. Any ideas.
Good advice here. I might also try asking this on a boatbuilder's forum.