Replies

1. 
   davidmeiland | Jun 30, 2006 08:49am | #1

   Gorilla Glue

2. 
   IMERC | Jun 30, 2006 08:53am | #2

   biscuts and PL400

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

1. 
   wane | Jun 30, 2006 10:37pm | #3

   Miters on outside work will always open up as the wood dries out .. when it dries the angle actually gets sharper, opening up at the inside corner .. avoid them if you can!

1. 
   user-121922 | Jun 30, 2006 10:56pm | #4

   In the situations where end grain will show, mitered corners will give a finished professional look. To prevent opening of the joint, over cut the mitered pcs and toe nail/screw these ends together. any opening can be caulked and banged closed with your hammer.

1. 
   Tomrocks21212 | Jul 01, 2006 08:03am | #6

   Yup, they'll look good until you've had a full year cycle of weather." mitered corners will give a finished professional look. To prevent opening of the joint, over cut the mitered pcs and toe nail/screw these ends together. any opening can be caulked and banged closed with your hammer."The caulking and banged-closed joints will accentuate the finished professional look, I'm sure.

1. 
   user-121922 | Jul 05, 2006 08:48pm | #14

   Maybe it's the school of learning  I was exposed to but Visible end grain is never acceptable---details are everything and separate the men from boys.

2. 
   Tomrocks21212 | Jul 06, 2006 01:00am | #15

   I am certainly technically able to miter outside joints on railings, bands, etc., and make it look good. My point is that, at least with most PT lumber, there's no way to keep those joints from opening up. It might look great today, but in a year it won't. While I generally agree with the "no exposed end grain" rule, allowances have to be made for the fact that outside work is subject to different conditions than interior trim. I'll bet you don't put return caps on the ends of your deck railings?
   With cedar, I wouldn't hesitate to miter the joints because it doesn't move as much. But I'd probably also kerf the backs of the 2x, and use a urethane caulk.

3. 
   user-121922 | Jul 06, 2006 09:59pm | #16

   You got me with the treads. I had to laugh.

   Yes your right about PT but when you deliver a product, these details standout. What happens over the course of time you cannot control; what matters is what the product looks like when your done and in this case, mitered corners at delivery look better than regular laps/butts.

   Of course, if the deck will be skirted with cedar then I also would not miter the corners because it's not the finished pc.

4. 
   TGNY | Jul 06, 2006 10:24pm | #17

   "What happens over the course of time you cannot control"So If your roof leaks, or your door binds, floor that cups, sheetrock cracks, is that what you tell your customer. How long is your warranty good for... 30 days?
   Good building techniques have alot to do with longevity.

5. 
   user-121922 | Jul 06, 2006 11:15pm | #18

   Now now, Don't get silly and extremist, were talking exterior living space aka decks built with PT lumber here---stay on point.

   I've found over time that the mitered corners will hold an acceptable edge if the screws are driven in deep so that the wood swells over them thus covering them.

    

    

   Edited 7/6/2006 4:17 pm ET by Big Lou in Chicago

6. 
   TGNY | Jul 06, 2006 11:17pm | #19

   Just ribbing you a little ;-)

3. 
   KaiserRoo | Jul 01, 2006 05:30am | #5

   What kind of cedar? I have Alaskan Yellow and was told that when stained it might be blotchy. I see you got the cetal, how mant coats will you need is it a two part product? Tite bond isn't too bad but I'm not sure if it'll prevent the joint from opening? I would consider using biscuits.

   K-boy 

4. 
   Mongo | Jul 01, 2006 09:40pm | #7

   Consider a half-lap miter, or, should you not want to see the seam on the outside edge, a stopped half lap miter.

   More glue surface, and even add a couple of plugged mechanical fasteners should you choose.

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 01, 2006 10:04pm | #8

   Damm you!

   Beat me to the punch! I was gonna post the exac same.

   Grate'ed minds and all that...LOL

   Long time no hear...how ya doin?

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   There is no cure for stupid. R. White.

1. 
   Mongo | Jul 01, 2006 11:37pm | #10

   Hey hey!Doing well, thanks for asking.Tired.Getting ready to run away for a couple of weeks of R&R.Not looking forward to the trip, but I am looking forward to the destination.Yeah, I come on occasionally and lurk these days, but post hardly ever. By the time I see a thread it already has 25 replies!CU, Mongo

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 02, 2006 12:57am | #11

   Relax, enjoy...glad to hear yer still fumbling about ( G, D, &R).

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   There is no cure for stupid. R. White.

1. 
   MikeSmith | Jul 02, 2006 01:05am | #12

   any chance we'll get to see you at TipiFest ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   Sphere | Jul 02, 2006 01:15am | #13

   If he is standing up..I'd say PRETTY GOOD chance you'd see him..look for the head above every one else's..that's him.

   Give em 50 bucks and you can have a personal body guard for the nite...BTDT..LOL.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   There is no cure for stupid. R. White.

5. 
   Sphere | Jul 01, 2006 10:11pm | #9

   Lexel or PL Premium will both adhere and fill the gappage to an extent.

   Get creative and rout a dovetail slot in each face of the joint...easy actually..and add a long butterfly spline of stronger wood with the grain in strength and use a thinner titebond or gorilla glue.

   The glue is only to keep the water out, it is the joint that makes the day.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   There is no cure for stupid. R. White.