I’ve got a 4″ H x 14″ W duct that is currently butted up against the ceiling and also on the wall. Eventually cabs will be installed right underneath it.
I am planning to glue sheetrock to the duct with PL Premium Glue.
With no room to clamp….I’m thinking about better ways of getting this drywall on.
I’m thinking I would do the sheetwork/PL and then use a long ladder and a wood to just *shim* it up in place till it dries.
Or find some epoxy stuff, use this to *tack* the sheetwork in place and let the PL do the rest.
Any other better ideas or suggestions you guys can offer.
Replies
Are you gluing directly to a sheetmetal hvac duct? That doesn't sound good. Won't the duct flex, causing cracks in the joints of the rock?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Do it right and make a wood box frame for the drywall. If you are concerned about losing some height, have the frame lower than the duct by a half inch. While you are at it make the frame 1/2 inch larger than the duct all around, giving the duct room to expand/contract.
if ou still wanna do a direct glue on...
put the piece on (glued) remove it and wait 10 / 16 seconds and then replace it...
what's wrong with a couple of DW screws to hold it in place... screw it straight to the duct
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I can't frame it since the framing will add to the oversall depth of the duct and the sheetrock will be past the cabinets.I don't intend to do a *true soffit, since that would mean I would have to do it continus to make it look good. It's a short run. 3 feet long then corner by 18 inches that I need to cover on the duct.Hmm...if drywall is not feasiable, am I better off just doing a wood strip and nailing 1/4 ply as the *duct cover ?
If it were me, I would keep drywall isolated from the duct.
Why not 1/2" ply glued and screwed in a few places to the duct? I have done this on both sheet metal and brick chimneys. Any imperfections can be floated with using some drywall mud and sanded smooth. DanT
I once just primed and textured a duct run with dw compound. Only had 6' clearance beneath it, so even a 1/2' plywood dropped it into the head banger range for the 6' tall HO. Hung and finished the ceiling dw with a tape joint at the duct. Only got a hairline crack at the drive slides on the duct, and that was caulked with DAP tub and tile. It stood the test of time. After 20+ years it looked the same as when I finished it.
I lke the 1/4" plywood cover and skim coat option better though.
Dave
I would DEFINATELY NOT skim coat any compound wether hot or all purpose on plywood. It may look flawless after you finish,but after the plywood adjusts to humidity,eventually you will notice alligator cracking. Even if you were to prime the wood before skimming
Could you make a frame that is only a half inch deeper than the duct (parallel to the vertical faces of the duct)--no cross supports under, cross members at end beyond duct and support the other end with a cleat to the wall? If the duct is against a wall, you may have to use a decorative molding on the wall as a cleat under the horizontal run of drywall. (The drywall then would float at that edge, just resting on the cleat.
Use some metal hat track and shim down, screw to it. The direct to metal will fail because of thermal expansion differences
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