Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 09, 2000 03:29am | #1

   *
   Frank, Though I have not personally tried it, I have heard that wiping the area to be glued with acetone will remove the oily resin of the wood allowing the glue to properly bond.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 09, 2000 04:49am | #2

   *Frank: My son built a desk with teak two summers ago. We used polyurethane (gorilla brand) glue with no special preparation. We have had no problems with it at all. We used all mortise & tennon joints. We did this in the evenings so we had some joints prepared but not glued for several days and some were glued right after the pieces were machined. We have had no problems with the glue on any joints. My son wanted a varnish finish. He followed the advice in Bob Flexner's book understanding wood finishing. We wiped the teak with lacquer thinner and stained the teak as soon as the thinner evaporated. We lightly wiped the wood when the stain was dry with thinner & varnished. Second & third coats followed standard finshing practice. The finish is still on and shows no signs of failure. Hope this helps Ron.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 09, 2000 01:35pm | #3

   *Frank, both MDM and Ron are correct. Teak needs to be wiped to pull up the surface oils unless you are using polyurethane glue. I'm not a fan of poly, but this is a good time to go with it. Dave

2. 
   Frank_Melligan | Apr 11, 2000 12:16am | #4

   *
   Thanks for your help. I'll let you know how it turns out.

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 04:19am | #5

   *
   Gorilla Glue was developed specifically for glueing teak - the guy who owns it had/has a big teak furniture operation. Deciding to market the glue as a product was later.

4. 
   Colleen_Miller | Apr 15, 2000 08:01am | #6

   *
   I once customized a good portion of my forehead when a laminated piece i was turning broke on a (yellow) glue line. After the stitches came out, another customer asked for laminated cutting boards to go on her boat. I used Gorilla glue on the boards,which are still perfect even in all that moisture and with all the different species of wood. The only problem i have with the poly glues is that 40 grit is the only solution for removing the guck from your hands by prom night, and the stuff solidifies in the bottle no matter what i do--any solutions for either problem?

5. 
   Guest_ | Apr 15, 2000 03:04pm | #7

   *
   Throw the Gorilla glue in the freezer when not it use for long periods. As for the hands consider that a tatoo of sorts........Use disposable gloves. By the way there have been a few topics discussed here before, probably in the fine wood working section that reference all the questions raised here, your post and others.
   i Give it a search.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 18, 2000 07:28am | #9

   *Colleen: alcohol will take off Urethane glues before they harden. It hardens in the bottle in response to 1) water vapor in the air that entered the bottle during manipulation, and 2)water that diffuses in through the bottle walls during storage. I suppose you could displace the air above the remaining glue with a dry gas, Bloxegen ore somesuch, and you could put the whole bottle in a glass jar with little bags of drier. I agree, at those prices, it is agrivating to watch it harden.

6. 
   Frank_Melligan | Apr 18, 2000 07:28am | #8

   *
   Is there any special preparation needed to glue teak? I have a job coming up which requires a teak face frame on a maple chest-of-drawers. Someone once said that you have to bleach the teak first. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.