I’ve got a ’99 GMC Sierra with a little over 72k miles on it. It’s developed this incredibly annoying and embarrassing loud engine knock upon startup, which eventually goes away once the engine warms up. A little research online shows that it is likely “piston slap”, which occurs when the piston is too small to fit in the bore properly, and it goes away once the piston expands from heat.
Haven’t had it professionally looked at yet, but I’m told the only cure is a complete rebuild. Just paid the thing off and was hoping to not have to sink that kind of money into it, but ain’t that how it goes.
Anyone else ever deal with this? Cases of this are all over the GM boards and all that, but it sounds like they were much newer vehicles than mine.
And no, I’m not posting this to start a GM-Ford debate. Please resist the temptation. 🙂
Maybe someday I’ll know a little something.
Replies
curious - which engine?
I had the six litre in the one I just traded off. It was starting to use oil at about 80K, all short run local miles
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
6 cyl 4.3. Not much of a truck, really-I bought it because I needed the bed size and the miles were way low when I got it. 35k, I think, so it's not like I beat the hell out of it in 3 years.
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
Edited 6/13/2007 3:36 pm ET by JJV
FWIW...the 4.3 never had any piston slap noise. I'm not saying it isn't possible, but I highly doubt it. I've wrenched on hundreds if not thousands of 4.3'as and never had any piston slap problems The 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 truck engines did have taht condition as well as the 3.1 and 3.4 car engines. It was mostly due to the shortened piston skirt...there wasn't enough meat to keep the piston stable during the combustion event.
The 4.3 did have balance shaft noise concerns due to torsional vibrations and can be corrected by installing a timing chain tensioner kit. However if your engine has been run for an extended period of time with an internal coolant leak...ie intake gskt...ther's a good chance your going to have bearing failure soon if it hasn't happened already. Best bet is to fix it right or unload the vehicle. If the oi fill cap and PCV valve have that milkshake oil mix on them, it is a sure sign of problems. If the engine sounds like what you say it does, the damage is already done. If you had addressed the intake gskt leak sooner, there was a good chance you could have saved the engine. I've upped my standards...now up yours
Thanks for the insight-. I have no idea how long I had the leak for-I thought it was just running out some hole in the hose or something. I know I should have done something about this sooner. It's hard because it's the only vehicle we have for me (wife needs the minivan for the 2 kids). So we'll see what damage I have done.
It's one of those things that didn't affect how it ran, so I didn't think much about it until the noise got to be really bad.
Based on your experience, if it's not piston slap, why would the noise go away after a spell? If it is some kind of bearing failure, wouldn't that be a continuous problem? Seriously, oil, brakes, belts-that kind of stuff I can do. Engines I'm clueless about. Obviously.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
Edited 6/14/2007 4:38 pm ET by JJV
Based on your experience, if it's not piston slap, why would the noise go away after a spell?
Temp and bearing clearance play a big role. Is there still a coolant leak? If so that just increases the likelyhood that the bearing surfaces are taking a beating. You should start by fixing the leak and changing the oil and filter a couple times. Then address the noise.
Maybe the balance shaft is causing the noise? Hard to tell exactly what the noise is without hearing it. Something else you can do is check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge...both hot and cold
I've upped my standards...now up yours
I know you hate me, so, I'll be brunt.
Is not the 4.3 a chopped off 350? The 350 had two at TDC at all times..the 4.3 lost that one, that balanced that out?.
hate you?? lofl
Nope, just trying to keep up with the pay-it-forward theme
b'sides...you were the one who went off the deep end with a chicky fit once upon a time, not me! I've upped my standards...now up yours
Alright, got it checked today-as you and MrBill guessed, it has a bad intake and the noise is from the damage to the bearings caused by the coolant/oil mixture. Probability of engine failure, 100%-no telling when. They said the intake job would be around $1500, rebuilding the engine around $3k. Too much for me to spend on a truck I should unload for other reasons anyway. Thanks to everyone for your insight.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
A $50 band aid for the bearings is a quart of Slik 50 and a change to Castrol Syntek. The Slik 50 will prevent more damage and the Syntek will keep actual metal to metal contact to a minimum.SamT
Praise the Corporation, for the Corporations' highest concern is the well being of the public.
Thanks for the tip-I think I'll try that in order to keep it in passable shape for a trade-in.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
wow 15 bills just for the intake gskt? Must be the Boston pricing... I've upped my standards...now up yours
I guess so...once had a brake job (all four pads and rotors) quoted at $800. that was the day I learned how to do it.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
Edited 6/25/2007 3:50 pm ET by JJV
800?? Probably GM rotors too...NFG JUNK!!! Use jobber rotors next time. Better product besides being cheaper
any chance your skills are good enough to install a used engine? You'd get more for the truck with a quiet engine I've upped my standards...now up yours
Nah, no chance-with some experienced help I could do it (provided that experienced help had the garage space and an engine hoist). Trouble is finding such a person willing to lend a hand. My buddy's father taught me a lot when I was still living at home, but it was always routine maintenance like belts and fluid changes. He left the heavy lifting to his cousin who ran a body shop.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
Well too bad you weren't closer...I'm in SE CT...I'd give you a hand dropping one in.
I've upped my standards...now up yours
Hey, thanks for the offer. Used to live in RI and was born in Philly so I'm pretty familiar with the SE CT area-at least that around the 95 artery. I drove that route many times.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
95 artery = rat race to he!!
About the same as 93 up your way during rush hour I've upped my standards...now up yours
Having experienced both, I'd say that 95 is worse! Rat race to he11 is dead-on!
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
I got a 350 (excuse me 5.7 litre) in my 2001. It started using about a quart every 1000 miles right at about 80k miles. I was told "they all do that".
I guess they weren't lying.
I guess I'm the lucky one.
Have a 5.7 in a 1996 Tahoe - 156K miles - uses 1 pint of oil in 3000 miles - just in time for the oil change. Steady diet of Castrol GTX 5-30 since 35k miles (that is when I bought it).
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
With mine, it was never noticeable until one month I had other computer problems on the thing and was plowing a lot of heavy snow just before that. Iran it two quarts low that month when It never showed low between changes before.Add it all up and she is history for me.
Over in Shere's van thread I posted the newer one and the old '85 with the 350 and the throaty growl
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I found out mine leaked/used when I was sitting at a light and the pressure guage dropped to zero (Heart attack). I got to the job site and was three quarts down. It never used before so I didnt watch it. Since then about a quart every 1000 miles.
Not all of the 5.7L do that. I use about half a quart per oil change unless it's really hot or I'm running it hard, then it may use a quart. Mine has close to 300K on it and is a '90 Silverado. OTOH, they're hard to actually kill.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Well, mine engines in a work truck and it gets used, cared for but used. Its a one ton and i've probably had more than that in it.
The other thing, I bought it a year old with 29k on it and it was a rental before I got it. I got to say though its a good truck. Real dependable.
I don't own any GM engines, so I can't speak to any re-occuring problems with pistons. To me I would look to a failed lifter first and then to a worn wrist pin. If the problem is really with the piston/rod/wrist pin, then the best advice I can give is to fix the problem fast or total engine failure is in your near future. If the engine shakes or seems out of balance then it most likely is a rod/pin/piston problem. If the motor seems well balanced then first change the lifters and push rods and check the lash on the rocker arms......You can check if the piston is the problem by having the compression tested while the engine is cold, make sure that the valves are seating well by pulling off the valve cover and checking for full valve closure. If the compression is good, it most likely is not a worn piston.
JJV,
2000 Chev. Silverado , 5.3 liter
Same problem I think. I found a story in a car article in my local paper about this being a problem with that engine. Article indicated it was not a "life threatening issue" and would not get worse.
On the other hand the noise also reminds me a sticky lifter.
Mine disappears after the first few moments of running time.
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
Edited 6/13/2007 4:31 pm by dovetail97128
I read all of that too-it's "normal" for this sound to occur. I can tell you for sure that it has gotten worse over the last 9 months or so-it used to last for maybe 3 seconds; this morning it lasted almost 15 minutes. and forget it when it's below freezing-it doesn't go away. So to me it doesn't sound normal. I suspect they say it's normal because of the crush of complaints they got about this, and they were looking at huge money to fix the problem.BTW why was this moved to the Tools folder? I guess a truck is a tool but it's kind of a stretch.
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
Would you rather it be put in the tavern ?That's where truck threads used to end up...;o)
Fight fire with water.
I guess I can see that if they were the GM sux-Ford sux kind of thread...heck, why not reassign them to Cooks' Talk instead??
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
Yes, I think all that chevy sux, ford sux stuff had something to do with it.So all truck threads were consigned to the tavern. For fear that if allowed, it would turn into that brand-rivalry crap. The one reason I was given personally, so I know for sure it is a part of the reason, is that they don't want the forum to be swamped with truck stuff.~~~Rez and a few others successfully lobbied to stop having the truck threads go to the tavern.Now I think the policy is, it is a tool, so it goes to the tool thread. And some truck threads, those that DO start to look like the rivalry stuff... end up dumped in the tavern, regardless. If theres any real purpose to the thread, asking what would fit a particular job, or asking how to fix something, etc... Same sort of questions you'd get about tools... it gets left in the tools section.=0)
Fight fire with water.
OK that does indeed make sense. It was confoozing for a bit there though. I put it in the General folder, got home from work, and couldn't find the darn thing!
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
jj,
If it lasted 15 minutes, no matter how cold it is, I doubt that it is piston slap. I would suggest you find a local engine builder to listen to it if at all possible and get another opinion. By the way, the worse thing you can do to any engine is to rev it up immediately when cold, especially without a load on it. Start it, let it idle for about 30 seconds to get the oil circulating, then drive off normally. Are you using the proper oil ? Should be 5w30. Heavier oil can actually make some problems worse because it takes longer to circulate when the engine is cold. GM's piston slap is really not very loud, more of a light tapping. Yours sounds worse and should probably be looked at before something comes apart and causes serious damage.
All this is being said without actually listening to the engine, so take it with a grain of salt as they say. If you need a suggestion for a good engine shop in your area, send me an e-mail and I will find someone for you.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
[email protected]
Hey Bill-I only revved the thing once; I generally know better than that. I remember my dad chewing me out for revving his cold motorcycle years ago...that lesson stuck! Still, not being a mechanic I can't fight the urge now and then. I'm pretty faithful with the oil changes and I've always used 5w-30. In fact I just got in from changing the oil 20 minutes ago. The filter was completely filled with this thick gunk that just plopped out into the pan when I dumped it. Never saw that before. On top of it I think antifreeze is leaking into the engine. The overflow tank is always low and I never see a puddle on the ground. I've been putting this off long enough; I gotta get it checked out.Thanks for the input. I'll email you. Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
Edited 6/13/2007 9:11 pm ET by JJV
jj,
Probably intake gaskets leaking, pretty common. Hopefully it has not damaged any bearings with the coolant in the oil.
Where are you at near Boston ? Spent every summer until I was about 20 in Medford. Still visit a few times a year.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
Edited 6/13/2007 10:14 pm ET by MrBill
I'm in Franklin, which is about 30 miles south. I'm actually about 10 miles from Gillette Stadium. It was a cow town until about 15 years ago. Then...boom. Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
Edited 6/13/2007 10:37 pm ET by JJV
"The filter was completely filled with this thick gunk that just plopped out into the pan when I dumped it. Never saw that before.On top of it I think antifreeze is leaking into the engine."You didn't say that before. What color was the gunk- kind of like a thick milkshake? That could be a bad head or intake manifold gasket and is definitely a problem. Oil film breakdown could definitely be what you're hearing.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Yeah I forgot about the antifreeze problem because it was more of an issue in the winter, so I ahaven't had to refill in a while. I checked it as part of the routine though and it was way low again.
The stuff in the filter was blackish brown, like the rest of the oil, and yes it was like a really thick milkshake.
Sounds like I am going in a direction I really don't want to!
Thanks to all for your input, BTW.
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
I wouldn't run it if it was that thick. Take some to a service shop and ask them for their opinion. If it's coolant, it's going to need some work and should not be run. Call around and get several prices- car dealers are the last place I would call, general service shops with good reputation would be first. It's not that hard to tear one of these down, but complete cleaning, thorough inspection, making sure bad/worn parts are replaced and correct re-assembly make a difference. The bearings (main and piston) are pretty cheap, so I would probably replace them. Cam bearings may be OK since that doesn't rotate as fast.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
That is what I was thinking on that one.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
If it's coming apart anyway, might as well replace the bearings, hone the cylinders, pretty up the heads a little and do some of the cheaper upgrades. I know some machine shops are pretty reasonable and, like I said, it's not a hard motor to work on. At almost 300K, I wouldn't mind doing this to mine but it runs so darn good. Problem is, it needs brakes, ball joints, bushings, axle seals/pinion shaft seal, silver paint is flaking off and AC rebuild.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
highfigh?
What? rebuild an engine? I'm sorry but you are about 20 years out of date.. Buy a GM crate engine it's cheaper, faster, and has a warrantee with it.. budget about $2000 for the engine and another $600 for the install.
Or fix the leak and drive it for another 10 years. Like I said when is the last time you saw an honest to god engine blow up? not a burst radiator hose which looks dramatic as heck but oil out the pan parts falling on the ground engine failure.. I travel 50,000 plus miles a year and I can't remember seeing one in the last couple of decades..
I used to work on boats, so I have seen blown, frozen, abused, toasted, overheated, rusted, cracked, head gasket failures caused by some gomer using gasket sealant on heads and intake manifolds, etc. Call me whacky but I like to actually see how it goes together. Besides, If I need one, it's not gonna be a stock motor. If I get a smokin' deal on a car or truck with a blown motor, it's probably going to see a 350 Ramjet crate motor in it. I have a friend who has a shop in PHX and he will have it drop shipped to me. EFI is no problem and it comes with a harness, ECM and rough program. If I really want to get it dialed in right, I'll go to Syracuse Indiana to the shop owned by one of the people who got that one running right for GM (along with my friend in PHX, who worked at GM's desert Proving Grounds in V8 Power Train Development for 25 years). We could drive around and acquire the data and make changes on the fly, down there. I haven't seen any of them in about 7 years, anyway and I'm due for a visit.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
highfigh,
I've probably built more engines in a month than you have in your whole life. (note the modifier probably) I've raced for decades and the only way I could afford to do that was build my own engines..(in fact do all my own work) since I used much smaller engines racing against much bigger ones and was darn successful doing it I think I probably know a bit about engines racing, or otherwise.
IN fact at one point I successfully raced one whole season and won 12 of the 13 races I entered with nothing but a target master engine. I used the torque of that target master engine to pull ahead of more powerful engines that didn't have the bottom end grunt I had.. They'd wind their engine to insane RPM attempting to get back around me but if they did I could be pretty sure that in a few laps that high dollar engine would decide it had enough of this abuse and roll over and die.. Can't win if you can't finish.. ;-)
My real love has been the Jaguar engine.. Not much has ever been done with it and it's fun to take a motor that was designed during WW2 ,has less than 260 cubic inches, with a really antique stroke of 4.17 inches and beat 427 cobras with it..
The factory advertized that it had 265 horsepower, but those must have been horses with extremely skinny legs and asma. Put a fresh one on the dyno and if you really did everything exactly right you might register 200 horspower.. Yet the last dyno pull I did it had 472 hp at 5800 rpm.. (and as I've said I beat 427 cobras with it).. The 427 cobra was made nearly 9 years later than my car was so it has a whole lot of technology advancement over my D type Jaguar and yet I've beat them not once but several times..
I digress.
Target master engines are tough durable and insanely cheap considering everything.. The target master I raced with for a year went into my 2 ton race car hauler and worked hauling race cars around for another decade before I lost track of it. Not bad for an engine I paid $1400.00 for..
JJV
Antifreeze in the oil? is it milky colored? GM has had a issue with intake gaskets leaking. Only solution is to pull off the intake maniforld and regasket it. Cost me about $600.00
caused in part by negect of the antifreeze system should be drained and flused every other year unless you have the red antifreeze which is 5 years..
I use the red antifreeze, and I've had the truck only 3 years, so who knows.
The used oil looked no different than it usually does, but then it was pretty dark when I changed the oil.
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
BTW why was this moved to the Tools folder
trucks are tools to most of us...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
That's what I usually say too-personally I've never understood the whole jack-up-the-suspension and put-on-the-monster-truck-tires thing. They're utility vehicles.Kinda like putting racing stripes on Hitachi tools...
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
have ya looked at hitachie lately???
the already have stripes...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Yeah I saw that...I forgot to do the little ;-) after that comment!
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
May have been posted before but I am not going to look back through all posts. Sorry if it was you are welcome if not, (;-).
http://www.pistonslap.com/index.html
I spent a lot of time on this website! I know diagnosing engine problems online is not unlike diagnosing diseases online, but the audio file they have on hear sounds exactly like my truck.
BTW all-with the clean oil in it, the knock lasts 30 seconds or less if it's warm out. Getting it checked (finally!!) this week.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
dovetail
Since you say yours sounds like a lifter it could be due to a leaking O ring between the oil pickup and pump.....
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).
Cause
The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil. I've upped my standards...now up yours
having read the posts, start it up up in the morning and take it right up to about 45-50 mph. don't wait for it to warm up. hold the speed steady, if the sound gets louder, it's piston slap. 4.3 has roller lifters which rarely fail. If not piston slap, I'd look at the rocker pivot's. sometimes they have lube problems from a plugged pushrod and wear (eventually) thru the rocker. The reason the piston might be too small for the bore is that gm is cursed with heat treatment issues on the cylinder walls, had an engine replaced by the dealer at 12k mi. because of it. Jim
It definitely gets louder. I've revved it right away to see if it would free anything up, and it gets faster, louder, and you can actually hear the harmonics change as the rpms get higher. I tried some Valve Medic and that didn't help. It's definitely worse when it is colder outside, as it is today (53 right now in Franklin MA). I was hoping to trade this truck in because it's no longer practical (closed up my part-time handyman gig and the 3rd kid is due in abut 6 weeks) but with that clanging I can't imagine I'll get anywhere near book value.
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
Piston slap does not warrant a rebuild, your engine should continue to operate just fine with normal maintenance. You will not recoup the cost of a rebuild on a trade or sale time.
A brand new crate engine from GM will be cheaper than a rebuild, likely a better warranty too. Plug and play- no waiting.
You might want to stop by the dealer and ask them about a GM (no cost) extended warranty on the engine. It has been offered to customers with the piston noise. Don't know if anything will be done with your miles/age.
I have the last of the C/K body style 1 tons with the old 350 (5.7L). It's had the piston slap from about 20K and I thought it would never make it to warranty. I'm at 110K and it's still going (and rattling.) I agree with the advise of getting a reman engine. Payment free is the way to be.
-D
You should own my wifes Subaru, you'd love it!
A "design feature" I was told.
I wish I could get away with that line!
[email protected]
I had a '99 Outback wagon...took it to 140k miles, then traded it in for a minivan. I loved that car. That said, I noticed the Subaru name pop up quite a bit online. Seems they have the same problem now.
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
JJV
I first heard piston slap upon start up at 50,000 miles. I now have 273,000 miles on it and still have the slap. I suspect I need to really worry about the issue. My gut says that sometime in the next 250,000 miles I might think about rebuilding the engine.. Still don't use a nickles worth of oil between oil changes..
My advice? Change the oil every 3000 miles, use good quailty oil and find something else to worry about..
When is the last time you saw an engine blow up on the highway? not some radiator hose rupture spilling radiator fluid but oil erupting parts falling out the bottom engine blow up?
I drive 50,000 miles per year and I have't seen one in decades..
without hearing it... it could be "piston slap" happens when the crank/rod/piston pin angle is just right in the bore so that when you have enough clearance (wear) the skirt of the piston in fact "slaps" the cylinder wall...
in the old old days it was very common and they had a gnarlling (sp) ? tool that would add ridges to the bottom part of the piston (below the rings) to "tighten up the clearances"
will it kill it? it could crack a piston... could break part of the piston skirt off... or it could just sound like crap for another 100k... only the motor gods know
this might be a reach but i have seen flex plates with small cracks that made the same type sound...
your engine is based on a very old design... and is built/machined on pretty old equipment... so the clearances from the factory have a range much wider than what you'd find in a toyota... knowing this GM has to balance a few things... too tight and you have too much friction... the piston design plays in as to where materal is placed to control/predict how heat will make it expand... often piston by design aren't even round until they expand (this is where your noise might be coming from)...
trade it in warm/hot.... trade it to a gm /chevy dealer... and never think twice because "they all do that by design"
had a bmw (wifes not mine) once that they told me "they all do that"... i took the service guy out to the lot... i told him he needed to find me one that did it or we were going to test drive every car on the lot until we found one that did... if none of them did it... we were going to swap keys for one that didn't.... they fixed the problem
p
Heh heh I like that approach-sadly mine is too old at this point to pull something like that. The warranties expired a long time ago. I've thought of trading it in warm but I don't like to be too deceptive-it always comes back to bite me-and it usually resurfaces in 20 minutes or so of being turned off.
I think I am swearing off GM now, though I could probably shame them into at least giving me a better trade-in value.
Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
i wouldn't give a second thought to trade'n it it to a GM dealer... i figure it's their game... they should know how to play... they are the exact ones who would tell you "they all do that" so hell let em have one that does...
p
ponytl,
you're right they know how to play that game, and in a trade in situation you lose.. Doesn't matter, you lose..
Frenchy-
You're right, you lose in a trade-in. I can't see anyone buying it with that noise though, unless they are someone like you who knows how to fix these things easily. So I guess I lose either way.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
JJV
Well you can do the old STP and 50 weight oil trick at trade in.. that way at least the noise will be gone, you'll still lose but maybe not as much..
"Well you can do the old STP and 50 weight oil trick at trade in.. that way at least the noise will be gone, you'll still lose but maybe not as much.."And, while car dealers are expected to obscure problems, you can leave your self respect in the truck, too.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Edited 6/22/2007 9:25 pm by highfigh
That has been nagging at me too-not sure I could feel 100% good about doing something like that. The mechanic suggested I have it stolen. :-)
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
Off to the auto auction. Let the buyer beware. We used to sell airplanes and the disclosure requirement was much different to a dealer vs end user.
I had my 96 Blazer 4.3 intake seals replaced for around $650 including plugs, wires and many other parts. I only saw a little coolant leak from manifold. No internal issues.
"The mechanic suggested I have it stolen. :-)"Yeah, that's just as honorable. Oh, yeah.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I hope it came through that he was joking. I wouldn't consider that as a solution. I mean, if some ill-spirited person decided to steal it on their own, well, lucky me. But that's not my stock in trade.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
Highfigh,
Actaully that was my tongue in cheek suggestion. You're right you've got to shave that face in the morning. Chances are the dealer will simply sell the problem to the used car buyer looking for a low price. Dealers know all about passing on problems with used cars.. they aren't in business to lose money..
So in effect you'd be stiffing some poor guy looking for a good deal.
Yup- vehicles that aren't "peaches" are wholesaled to used car dealers and the sleazy ones will do the "typical used car dealer" stuff. Still, if the body and running gear are in good shape, slapping a good used motor in it doesn't cost much, for them. They usually have someone turning wrenches for them who can do it pretty quickly although it's not necessarily well done. Their main market is the person who buys cheap and doesn't keep it for long, for several reasons.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."