I paid twelve dollars for a bottle of gorilla glue.
Get home, get ready to use it… And realise why they call it gorilla glue.
You have to be a frikken gorilla to sqeeze the stuff out of the bottle !!
I had to take the lid off the bottle, and slowly and carefully coax a ribbon out.
I built an 8 foot long scaffold plank.
I got all but 6 feet of it glued up…. And found that what is left in the bottle is already set up !!!
I’m going to have to try to use a popsicle stick or something to try to scrape/coax enough glue out of there to kinda-sorta finish gluing this up.
I will NEVER buy gorilla glue again !
The worst 12 dollars I have ever wasted.
In the end, it might be a good glue. But just how good is it if more than half the bottle is already set up when you bring it home ? And what is left, is so thick you can barely use it at all…
I don’t care how good the glue is, I expect more than just an 8 foot scaffold plank, out of a 12 dollar bottle of glue…
And before anyone suggests it… It would cost more than 30 dollars for gas, to return the bottle for an exchange. (And the next bottle might be just the same anyway…)
Get your head out of the box.
Replies
Luka,
If you bought Fine wood working magazine you'd realize further what a rip it is.. it only has 58% of the strength that PVA glue does and PVA glue is much cheaper..
Actually, I vaugely remember reading that. But I'd already bought the gorilla glue.Yup, good old yellow elmer's wood glue is stronger than gorilla glue.But I figured the place where the gorilla glue would find it's niche is on this scaffold plank. This plank is going to get wet. No two ways about it. If you've never lived and built in the northwest, you really have no idea just how wet this thing is going to get.I figured the gorilla glue, once set, would still hold, even after it gets wet. But the yellow elmer's lets go if it gets too wet...Oh well, I'll try to coax that last 6 feet out of the bottle, and take this as a lesson learned...
Edit for spleling.
Get your head out of the box.
Edited 11/7/2007 5:44 pm by Luka
Luka,
Titebond 111 is waterproof and holds 100% compared to gorilla glue.
You might be able to get the rest of the glue out if you use the old double boiler trick..
Titebond 111 Is exactly what I was looking for when I saw the gorilla glue.At the moment of purchase, I thought gorilla glue was better. Yeah, I bought into the hype.As I said, I learned afterward that the titebond, or even plain old white elmer's is better.Next time I'll keep looking along that shelf until I find the titebond 3.;o)
Get your head out of the box.
This is confusing. If it is 100% as strong, then it is exactly the same strength. Didn't you you say it was only 58% as strong?
Tinkerer3
That's correct Fine Wood Working Tested it and found it to be 58% as strong as Titebond 111.
It still does have it's place though.. it's the only glue recommended to be used on wet wood. When I steam bend things for my house the wood is always wet or damp so I use Gorilla glue for that application..
Titebond 3. Stronger than Gorilla and waterproof.
Or PL Premium.
I remember reading the review of the glues...I don't remember that Titebond III is stronger than PL Premium Constr. BTW, those are just about all I use any more. With the exception of speciality situations....Titebond carpenter trim glue (looks white, dries clear), or 2P-10 2-part stuff. Nothing I have works like those two in the right situations...I just re-read your post, and now I'm not sure if you meant that it was strong than PL Premium or that PL premium would also work. Now I AM confused!!"The nearest thing to eternal life we will ever see on this earth is a governmental program" -Ronald Reagan
I didn't say that one was stronger than the other, just that either one would be good for that application.
Edit - I just bought a small tube of something called PL Turbo, and I used it to glue a threaded piece of a brass flagpole into a brass ferrule. It's not supposed to be used for a metal-to-metal bond, but I wet both halves and it worked fine. The stuff foams like shaving cream and sets up HARD in a few minutes. Something that I coudn't use PL Premium or Titebond for, although an epoxy would have probably been my best choice.
Edited 11/9/2007 2:47 pm ET by JonE
After lengthy discussions over in Knots I believe it was determined that FWW did not clamp any of the joints tested and thus GG faired poorly in strength.
GG must be clamped per their instructions.
However, I have switched from GG to Titebond III when waterproofing is necessary. It is easier to work with for many reasons.
TWG
That's the most telling point of all.. few if any joints are clamped in the field. Since none of the joints were clamped the test was a fair comparison of the strength of glue..
"few if any joints are clamped in the field. "I guess that depends on your field.Mine is carpentry and remodeling
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
After hearing the tests FWW did on glues didn't include clamping (can it be?!?!?), i don't feel any need to revisit my decision to drop my subscription.
Yeah, if you don't minimally clamp a GG joint the expanding glue will drive it open. Not talking tons of force here, but something to hold the pieces together against the expanding glue.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
with calmoing I am sure that the TB111 would have been stronger by almost an equal amount... the absorbtion is what makes PVA glues bond so strongly, but it is strange that a publication catered to furnature makers did a glue test and did not include clamping.
james
After hearing the tests FWW did on glues didn't include clamping (can it be?!?!?), i don't feel any need to revisit my decision to drop my subscription.
Don't be repeating Frenchy's mis-speak.
TB is an Aliphatic Resin, not a PVA.
Elmers White is an example of PVA. Poly Vinyl Acetate
Carry on with the bashing and re-glueing. (G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Titebonds 1, 2, and 3 are all crosslinking PVA's. Elmer's Glue-All is a PVA without crosslinking, hence lower strength and water resistance.All PVA's exhibit creep under continuous loading, so are not rated as primary structural adhesives. They are not allowed to be used in the manufacture of glulams, for instance. PVA's are wonderful for many other uses, being cheap, safe, and very strong. Most of us here already know that, and use the heck out of the stuff.Gorilla-esque glues have their uses, but I seldom reach for them. For most applications something else is either better or easier and good enough. PVA's, PL Premium, and West System epoxies cover 98% of my wood gluing needs.Bill
Awe hell, just give me a tub of that ol white paste, a willing girl and a pair of popsicle sticks...hiding in the back of the room in first grade..
Now were talking.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Willing to do what? Eat the starch paste together? Or something weirder?True story: I was in 3rd grade, 1967. I already knew that Elmer's glue was a water base. As a joke I told the teacher I was sniffing Elmer's. Big mistake! They didn't believe me when I told 'em it was all a joke. "But the solvent is water! It can't hurt me!!" Out of that I learned that most adults are ignorant and also lack a sense of humor.Bill
Sphere,
well you'll have to take that up with the editors of Fine wood working..
right there on page 37 they list titebond 111 as a PVA type 1
beg to differ.. TB is a PVA
http://www.titebond.com/download/pdf/ww/GlueGuideTB.pdf
your apologies is accepted
james
Cool.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Much of this thread has been a list of people who don't understand how and when to use Gorilla Glue bashing it because of it being used wrong like that.blame the tools folks
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Back when it first came out, I bought two quarts. What I found out is : once it's opened, use it all SOON or it will harden in the bottle. And, even an unopened bottle will harden with enough time, the plastic is is still permeablle enough to allow moisture to get in.
As a lesson, I only buy small bottles now ( and infrequently at that, I hate the stuff) and getting it warm helps it flow out better. It says to wet a surface which I agree with if the wood is really dry, but alcohol works just as well, which I always have in a squeeze bottle in the shop.
If yer gonna do that scaffold plank again, for another, us PL Premium. You can feasibly let the end of the tube harden up and later dig out the plug and carry on with the rest of the tube. Ya can't with the liquid ( yeah right) Gorrilla.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Sphere,
read what fiine wood working had to say about the stuff.. only 58% as strong as titebond 111, even hide glue was better..
I read it. I also had deduced that on my own after seeing GGlue and other brands of Poly Glue fail or perform poorly for my intended use.
I fell for the hype hook, line and sinker back in '89 or whenever it was introduced and fell out of love with it just as fast. I still carry a 2oz bottle in the van, but have yet to find a reason to use it, and I have been rebuilding millwork and windows for the last few months.
YUP, TB3 is my "go to" glue now, even tho' I still have plenty of TB2 that is getting close to "toss it" age.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
PL Premium probably would have been perfect.A lot cheaper too.
Get your head out of the box.
The PL Prem const adhesive is what I would have recommended for a plank like that. Better strength with gap filling. Probably would have taken only $1.50 worth.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Sphere,
>> let the end of the tube harden up and later dig out the plug and carry on with the rest of the tube.<<
I like PL Premium and use it where appropriate. However I don't use a tremenous amount and usually infrequently. 4 oz today, then none for a week, 6 oz, none for two days, etc..............................
I have had great luck preserving the left over tube contents by folding a 4" or so long piece of Tyvek Seam tape around the cut end of the tube. Make sure the tape sticks to the full tube perimeter and to itself out past the cut end.
You will be able to get the tube going again for at least several months. Tyvek Tape works for caulk, roofing cement, etc. also.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Tyvek Tape works for caulk, roofing cement, etc. also.
Thanks for that tip. I wonder if other kinds of tape, duct tape for instance, would work as well as Tyvek? I'll try some duct tape and let ya know.
I've used duct tape. It doesn't work very well.A few days, maybe but that's about it. It lets too uch air through.Black electrical tape is a bit better. But you have to use a lot. Twist it together well, past the end, fold it back over, and tape it some more...The vycor type stuff is a good idea.
Get your head out of the box.
I've used duct tape. It doesn't work very well.
I'm gonna try Dan's method with some duct tape. If that doesn't get it done, I'll see what else I can come up with.
There's always the last resort; finding the soft spot, then slicing the tube open and using a stick or your finger. :-)
Sure...blame the tools...GG was a mainstay in my woodworking shop. I glued up a gadzillion laminations at a time bec the GG gives great open time. It's a lot easier on planer blades and other tools, doesn't clog sandpaper, doesn't suffer from glue-creep like the aliphatic resins, doesn't add water to a wood joint, matches wood colors better than 'yellow' glue (yes, i know TB# is sludge-colored), and is less expensive if used properly, meaning you don't need nearly as much of it to do the job. Sheesh.PS: Store it in the freezer when you aren't using it. It'll keep forever.
Yeah, I don't have anything against GG. Have used it in a number of different situations, and like it especially for "rough" joints (repairing a split rail fence is one case) where it's gap-filling ability is useful. For high-strength outdoor joints I use resorcinol.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I've never found a need for resorcinol yet that a much less expensive glue wouldn't fill. I'm not making surfboards, though. I bought my first TB3 to make some Victorian porch posts this summer. I can see gluelines now in my clear KD redwood under the paint. :^(
If you have rotten exterior window trim that need touching up and a repair short of replacement, dig out all of the rotten material you can, blow it out and work some GG into the soft fibers, top with something that fills and hardens--not too bad for a repair.Nobody is as good as they seem, nobody is as bad as they seem either.
Things don't rot here so much as dry and crack, but i'll file that if i ever run into rot. As for "something that fills and hardens", i'm a Bondo devotee from waaaaaaaay back!
Yeah, I probably don't NEED resorcinol, but I trust it. Made some under-deck doors with it close to 20 years ago and they're still solid with no sagging.
As long as it takes me to get anything done, I don't mind spending a hair longer to make sure it's done right.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I second that emotion.
DanH
according to the article in fine wood working the gap filling ability of gorilla glue is mainly a myth.. Oh it may expand to fill the gap but the strength plummets to near zero..
In addition the requirement to wet the wood prior to use is seldom followed by people and often not done properly if followed.. that further reduces it's strength..
Well, there's gap filling and there's gap filling. I get the joints as close as I can, but they're sometimes not good enough for standard glues.As for wetting the wood, anything that's been outside is generally wet enough.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
DanH
It's really worth your time getting a copy of Fine wood working's article.. August 07
page 37
Gorilla glue with a gap of only 1/64th of an inch on oak took only 571 pounds to fail compared to titebond 111 under the same conditions took 1603 pounds to fail.. Average strength of loose, tite and snug joints for Gorilla glue was only 1164 pounds compared to 2024 with titebond 111
Gorilla Glue failed on all loose joints was the final conclusion of the article
Not that I'm a GG fan, but I can't imagine making a wood joint where I would rely on ANY glue to hold 1/4 ton or more.
Sometimes "good enough" doesn't necessarily have to be the best. Otherwise, we'd all be using titanium nails. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Mike,
Ah but good enough is cheaper and better (Titebond 111) than Gorilla Glue
So in your analogy you paid for titanium nails and got bubble gum.. <Grin>
Well, I wasn't endorsing GG. Like most posters, I rarely use it any more.
I'm just sayin' in general that I'd never build anything that would rely on a few square inches of ANY glue to hold a half a ton. While those tests show some glue is stronger than others, they also show that pretty much ANY glue will work for the job.
I mean, have you ever glued something together only to have it come apart and you say "If only I'd used XYZ glue"? Me -- I'd probably say "I shoulda used more bolts", not "I shoulda used some other glue".
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
"I shoulda used more Piffin screws!"
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader"
Mike,
Actually I use and recommend Gorilla glue for the right application. :-0
Whenever I work with steamed wood that is going to be laminated Gorilla glue is the only one that I know actaully recommends using on wet wood..
Well, since I rarely need to glue up wet wood, I guess I rarely need GG. ;-)
That said, I have used GG to glue ACQ, since ACQ generally qualifies as "wet wood", IMHO.
I have a bottle of GG on the shelf, right next to the Titebond original, TB-II, TB-III and TB Molding glue. I also have several types of epoxy and, IIRC, have some 2-part resin glue around somewhere, and multiple tubes of cauking gun-type glues. I don't hesitate to use any of the above if I think it's the right glue for the job.
For example, I used GG to put together a cherry butcher block kitchen countertop, 26"X1.5"X10', 'cause I thought it would hold up well in kitchen conditions. Now, I have no idea if another glue would have been stronger, "better" for use in the kitchen, etc. All I know is that: 1) it took a week or more for the GG to rub off my hands & arms -- what a mess THAT was. ;-) 2) It's held up great for 7 or 8 years now, so "best" is a moot point. GG was "good enough"; 3) I'm NOT gonna cut that sucker apart just so I can re-glue it with some other "better" glue!
As I said in my prior posts, I sometimes think the comparison tests go overboard. My guess is that pretty much any glue on the market is good enough for its intended uses. I don't care if my kitchen counter will fail at shear forces of "only" 1,000 lbs, instead of 2,000 lbs. It ain't ever gonna see anything close to either of those loads.
I actually liked the TB poly, 'cause it was "strong enough" for what I used it for, and the foam ooze-out was a LOT easier to remove than GG's -- kinda like styrofoam instead of hardened rubber -- even tho' I strongly suspect that the joint with TB poly would "only" hold a mere 500 lbs. ;-) Interestingly, although it was clearly an "inferior" glue, none of the many joints I made with it have failed yet.
BTW, addressing some other comments in this thread, I store my glue bottles upside down on a wire rack. I've never had any problem with glue hardening in the bottles. Now caulk gun tubes is a whole 'nother story. ;-(
I always wondered about steamed lams. What did folks use before GG? Did they form the lams and let them dry prior to gluing? Inquiring minds want to know!
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Mike,
Well what was fairly common was to go ahead and glue them up wet and hope they didn't fail when dry.. I remember building a boat using resorcinal (SP?) which required me to steam bend the ribs, let them dry and then glue them.. Since each rib was differant I was forced to spend more money on the forms than I spent on the ribs or the planking.. The first set of forms didn't account for the spring back, the second set didn't account for my over bending. The third set of forms were pretty close, but I went ahead and made set 4 to have things perfect.. I later spoke to an old boat builder who told me that he simply got things close and then planned the planking fair rather than make form after form..
I digress.
Anyway I wouldn't worry if the various glues were close, My concern is when there is that much differance (only 58% of the strength) What I've found is that if a glue is half as strong and the joint fails at the glue line, we're done! reglueing things won't work because the fibers have already been saturated with glue and then there is only the mechnical strength of the glue. Which usually isn't very much..
Want to test it? take a glue like PVA glue and glue together some metal, that's the mechanical strength of the glue itself.. that's what you get when you reglue something..
Well, gluing pieces of a split rail fence back together if it holds 50 pounds that's plenty.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
DanH
50 pounds? hmm you must not get any real wind where you are.. I know you don't have any kids to climb on it or anything else..
But all that aside.. PVA glue (titebond 111) is a lot cheaper than Gorilla glue. It's stronger and just as waterproof..
I take it then that it's habit?
It's handy; I know it's properties.(The fence in question is a 30-year-old cedar split rail fence. The ends have rotted off the rails and I've repaired them by splicing in a piece of redwood, eg. Anyone who even leans against the fence will buy me a new fence.)
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
You couldn't afford dowel rods and piffin screws ?;o)
Get your head out of the box.
I only use that on the good stuff.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
What I do is fold a piece of duct tape over the end of a caulk tube tip, leaving a little space between the fold and the end of the tip. Then I pump the gun to create a bulge in the tape. This works better than anything else I've tried for preventing tip clogs.
Not really applicable to GG, though.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Yeah, I like that. Push the air out of the end of the tip into the tape, with a dab of chaulk.
As for GG, they got their first and last $5 from me. I'm just glad I tried it on a small outside job first.
What I do is to take a piece of Lowes or similar plastic bag and put it over the end and use masking tape to hold it.Then pump enough adhesive or caulk to form a walnut of material.then it will harden on the OUTSIDE of the nozzle and seal it off..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I've done that. It works well.A penny balloon will do the job just as well, if you do the same way with it.
Get your head out of the box.
I use Aluminum peel and stick duct tape the same way -- I usually have more of that around than Tyvek tape.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I never tried the HVAC tape you mention (for sealing caulk tubes), but I could see how it would work very well. That stuff is major sticky and no porosity!
There is always a butt end of a roll of Tyvek tape in the truck - same as you always have the Al duct tape.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
The problem isn't with the glue. It is the shelf life and the failure of the retailer to moderate that. I've had the same thing and they replaced free with fresh.
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
As I said in the first post... It would cost 30 dollars or more, to take it back for an exchange. And I'd already thought of the shelf life part of it, and figured if this bottle was like this, the next one from the same place, probably would be, as well.;o)
Get your head out of the box.
That is fine if you want to just simmer over it.Meanwhile there are a few hundredx people reading this thread who can benefit from using GG if they use it right, and use it in the right place. No sense blaming the glue when the retailer sold you #### and you made some assumptions about what wasz the right glue to use in the first place. The polyurethene gues are fine when used fresh and used for jobs they are intended for.That is like blaming a candy bar for notr filling you up.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Good point.And SG made a good point as well.I was full of pizz and vinegar because so much of that bottle was wasted. (And most likely the store's fault for not rotating stock.) And needed to vent.Bottom line here, "blaming the tools" is not quite the case. It's learning which materials work for oneself, and which ones don't. Or which ones, one can work with, with ease. Which ones are too much of a hassle. And which ones are a waste because they will probably not be used in the way they were intended... (Also that point about paying attention at the store, to make sure you aren't buying a bottle that has already started to set up...)And thank you SG, for the tip about the freezer.=0)
Get your head out of the box.
Note to self..don't graze in SG's freezer, ya never know whats in there.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I think she has some testicules on ice
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Or at the very least, after tangling with her, you'll be putting ice on yours.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Edited 11/8/2007 6:47 am by DanH
Want to take a guess why there are multiple Pringles cans in the freezer?
Cuz the Ice Cube trays are in the cupboard?
Thats the best I can come up with, I had a day fom hell and it started at 330 am and ain't over yet..sorry for my lack of creativity.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
A Pringles can is the exact size to hold a painting roller cover. I've been using the same PVA primer roller, oil primer, etc., covers for years. I put a plastic bag over my hand, grab the roller, roll it up in the bag and stuff the whole shebang in the Pringles can. Wish i could say it was my idea, but i scavenged it from somewhere. The short PRingles cans, unfortunately, are not the size of a small roller cover. I've been meaning to talk to them about that. Sorry about your day. I'm making dog cookies. Want one? They have peanut butter in them and aren't bad at all.
I shoulda knew that.
I'll pass on the PB cookie, it's breakfast time now.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Another great tip !You should submit that to FH's tips and tricks dept. It could be worth some money !And I like the idea that when you want to use it again, all you do is open the pringles can, open the plastic bag, shove the roller down into the cover, and pull the whole shebang out of the can.You never need to actually touch the roller cover, except when there's plastic between your hand and the cover.Do you have a preferred bag for this ? Seems a 10 gallon trash can liner would be too big. A one gallon freezer bag too small, and probably too bulky anyway. A plastic grocery bag has holes in it...
Get your head out of the box.
"I'm making dog cookies. Want one? They have peanut butter in them and aren't bad at all."
Remind me to NEVER eat at your house.
(-:
The grass is always greener when you put manure on it.
How do you get the peanut butter to mix with dog?
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
You've just got to make sure you mix the peanut butter into the dog instead of the dog into the peanut butter.
Yeah, I can see that there would be a dangerous exothermic reaction if you did it in the wrong order.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
If you had that much trouble getting it out of the bottle it was going bad. You should take it back for a refund.
Skimmer...;o)
Get your head out of the box.
Back when I got a PC biscuit joiner, I ordered a quart ($30.00 in the mid to late 90's, wish I could forget) of Gorilla Glue to use with the biscuits, it was hard to use, hard to get off of me and everything else and I barley used any more of that bottle. It still hurts my feelings. Now when I get it, I just buy whatever brand has an inexpensive bottle and figure it is gonna go bad before I need it again.
Thanks for the report Luka. I just tried Gorilla Glue for the first time, same reasoning...an outdoor project. Bought the 2 oz bottle for this experiment, just enough.
Put down a small bead in the middle of inch and a half (1+1/2")surfaces, then stapled the AC ply to it. I'm not sure what the stuff does chemically but that small amount expanded in places and bubbled out slowly...sometime after I'd taken that section off the horses and set it aside. Left a semi-hard residue that needed a chisel to remove it.
That one problem will stop me from using GG again. I much rather wipe up a little excess, right after fitting the pieces, than have to use a sharp edge on it later, possibly damaging the surface.
Frenchy, thanks for the other information.
Question. What the heck kindod scaffolding are you putting up that needs to be glued? Are building in Bolivia?
.
"I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." Kurt Vonnegut jr.
It's just the plank, (or "pic"), not the entire scaffold.Basically a torsion box.2- 8' 2x3s12" wide 3/4" plywood glued and screwed, top and bottom.Screws are every 4 to 6 inches.When firmly supported about 6 inches from each end, it'll hold my weight, plus all I can carry.And it doesn't weigh so much that I can't move it around.
Get your head out of the box.
OK Your released from my scrutiny. :)
.
"I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." Kurt Vonnegut jr.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5MG1ZfFiZ8&mode=related&search= Mercy now
Does this mean yer not going to tell SG to start crushing ?;o)
Get your head out of the box.
just keep yer fingers out of her ice box
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
<<just keep yer fingers out of her ice box>>Like i don't have enough trouble generating traffic...
Nobody tells Splintergroupy anything.LOL
.
"I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." Kurt Vonnegut jr.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5MG1ZfFiZ8&mode=related&search= Mercy now
When did the title get changed from rip off to unpleasant surprise.
It's not the first time one of my titles has been changed.;o)
Get your head out of the box.
Yeah, in a humid climate the shelf life of an open bottle is not very long because it reacts with moisture in the air. Every time you squeeze the bottle you pull in more moisture and it starts curing.
For wood you're better off using a construction adhesive like PL if you wand outdoor permanence.
I hate gorilla glue. i use a clamp to squeeze it out. when i was glueing a peice of plexi glass into a slot in a frame i didnt realize it EXPANDS. now the peice is bowed and needs fixing.
Yep, it always surprises you the first few times you use it.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Why hate the GG?It issn't its fault you used it without knowing how and when.For future reference, silicone wouild be a better choice for plex in slot
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Why hate the GG?
I'll bet you cried when King Kong died. ;-)
OK.
That one went right over my head!
?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
"OK. That one went right over my head!"
Uh, warnt King Kong a big Go-Riller or sumpthin'?
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I think Piffin is still stuck on that one.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
you hear the joke about the roof????
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
OK. That one went right over my head!
Couldn't missed by much. Big mutha Go-rilla, KK.
Whispered: OK. Did you see any of the three movie versions of King Kong? How did you feel when KK was killed? It's OK if you don't want to tell anyone. The story was all an emotional manipulation anyway. Those dirty writers and producers, plucking your heartstrings for their own financial gains. "It's DES-PIC-able, I tell ya!"
Edited 11/21/2007 1:43 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
oh NOW you tell me. luckily I have another to go
And Lexel is even better than silicone in that application.=0)
A small, unexpected act of kindness, goes a long way.