Replies

1. 
   Bill_H. | Jun 02, 1999 01:13am | #1

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   Bobby, I am interested in learning more about working with stone. Can you share your experience? How were edges formed? Did you have a sink cutout? Cut with tile saw? If inappropriate for forumn can you e-mail me with details? Thanks, Bill

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 02, 1999 02:49am | #2

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   BobbyT,

   Most of the granite counter-tops that I've worked on were slabs. . . and they would be sealed soon after their installation. Installed granite "tile" floors would be sealed after they were grouted if they were to be sealed at all. I think I would follow this approach; grout, seal and then install any plumbing fixtures.

   Joseph Fusco

   View Image

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 02, 1999 04:43am | #3

   *It might be worth it to make a "test board" of say four tile. Grout 1/2 of it, seal the whole thing, then grout the other half. Then try to determine which works better. - yb

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 02, 1999 05:23am | #4

   *yb,

   The only problem I see with sealing "before" grouting is that many sealers contain silicone, this could cause the grout which is portland based not to adhere properly.

   Joseph FuscoView Image

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 02, 1999 08:26am | #5

   *Hey Joe - I am certainly no tile guy, but I was thinking that the sealer might do just that, "seal" the pores of the granite so the grout wouldn't bond. Heck, then you'd have to seal the grout again anyway, wouldn't you? - yb

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 03, 1999 08:05am | #6

   * Hmmm. . .

   No plumber I know will go near a granite counter-top until it's been sealed. Polishing only produces a finer "scratch" pattern an does nothing to change the stones porosity.

   Joseph Fusco View Image

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 03, 1999 01:37pm | #7

   *Keep the grout moist to maximize it's strength and seal the grout after it cures. I wouldn't worry about scratching the granite. The only forceful motions in grouting are when you pack the joints themselves and, at the end, when you take the film off the tiles with cheese cloth. But all the passes with the slightly damp sponge are very light.A friend is putting in his second granite tile counter top - he was happy enough with the look, performance, and low cost (compared to slab granite of the first one he did and used). Did 1/8 or 3/16' grout joints between the tiles and tried to keep the grout as high as possible (be really light with that moist sponge). Also used a grout colored very close to the granite so the lines were less distinct. To my eye, it looked higher end than any ceramic tile, but not as impressive as granite slab. Cost-wise, materials would $7-10/sq. ft. versus $30+ for slab. And way easier for a DYI. Screw up a cut and you're only out one $9 tile.-David

3. 
   gregn | Jun 04, 1999 01:40am | #8

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   I have found that for small counters, such as bath vanities can be done even more cheaply than granite tile counters. Slab remnants can be purchased for next to nothing from granite fab shops. Slab can be cut with skill saw and 4" hand grinder fitted with diamond blades. Edges finished with right angle sander with silicon carbide paper. You just have to live with top-mount sinks and edges that are either simple square, or with a recessed apron instead of a full bull-nose. I did my kitchen last year and it came out great. The granite is simply epoxied to 3/4" ACX ply. No need to mess with layout, mortar bed, wonderboard, grouting, thinset as with tile.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jun 04, 1999 02:39am | #9

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   Bobby if after reading this I understand right then you want to seal after you grout the tiles. Use any of the tile sealers on the market

5. 
   gregn | Jun 04, 1999 02:57am | #10

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   I have found that for small counters, such as bath vanities can be done even more cheaply than granite tile counters. Slab remnants can be purchased for next to nothing from granite fab shops. Slab can be cut with skill saw and 4" hand grinder fitted with diamond blades. Edges finished with right angle sander with silicon carbide paper. You just have to live with top-mount sinks and edges that are either simple square, or with a recessed apron instead of a full bull-nose. I did my kitchen last year and it came out great. The granite is simply epoxied to 3/4" ACX ply. No need to mess with layout, mortar bed, wonderboard, grouting, thinset as with tile.

6. 
   BobbyT_ | Jun 04, 1999 02:57am | #11

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   Just did a granite countertop, budget job (read that to be our house, always watching the budget!) used 12x12" granite "tiles" and came out very nice - so far. We have not grouted it yet. Do I use a 'sealer' before I grout? After? Both? I have heard conflicting... if I seal now, can the grout make a sufficient bond? I'm also afraid of scratching the tiles when grouting (have unsanded grout), worry warranted? If sealing after, anyone have a favorite brand easily available via the web or in the Chgo/subs area?? Much thanks to all.