I need true 1″ boards (nominal 5/4) boards to replace some trim boards around the windows on my 1890s house. Green-treated 5/4 x 6 decking boards could be a pretty cheap route to go. I saw some surprisingly not-too-knotty boards in the pile when I was picking up a few pieces for a deck repair the other day. It got me thinking, if I were to pick up a few of these boards and really let them dry out for the winter, could I use them for trim boards net spring? My first concern is how well the paint will stick. My second concern is how well I can Kilz any knots. The paint will be white. I’ve never been too impressed with the “northern-white pine” boards at the local hardwood yard. I remember reading once that southern-yellow is a far better wood, but we don’t see much of it in Minnesota.
Of course my first course of action should be to try to preserve the boards that I’ve got, but that’s easier said that done….
Thanks!
Replies
Yes, thatcan be done if you carefully selelct and then dry the wood.
You will have to use SS fasteners in it, but the painting should go fine. The touchy part would be sanding the wood to prime it. Be sure to wear dust mask and keep rinsing and washing.
A warning though - A lot of DH windows from that era have the casing stock in the same plane as the sheathing, and dadoed to fit onto a tongue on the frame. If that is what you have, there will be a couple of issues. One is that you will need to mill the wood to fit first and be very careful removing the old casing so that you don't end up destroying the whole window unit.
Thje other is that if you do not select the right quality graain for these replacement pieces, it will be unstable and will move a lot with the weather. That could make it check or change the window fraame opennning size so that the window sash does not slide properly
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Another option might be finger jointed poplar, I use it quite a bit. I know its available in 5/4 thickness, at least around here in Rochester, NY.
Being finger jointed it will be more stable and less apt to warp or twist, and no worry about what type of fastener to use unlike with the PT product.
Just mill it to the shape/ size needed prime it wel on all sides first and install it.
Good luck,
J
poplar plus moisture equals mush.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Ahh good call Jeff, was trying to think of something that finished well. Guess thats why we keep poplar for the inside projects.
I suppose cedar would be nice, or some sort of engineered or synthetic product would be the wiser choice ie; primed cedar, azek, or koma.
thanks,
John
oplar is about the worst exterior wood I can think of and FJ Poplar is just plain scary for this
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Never worked with FJ poplar myself....but poplar has been used in these parts for ages for exterior treatments.
Window frames...door jambs.
Not saying its my first choice personally, but I think local climate and finish plays a huge role in how stable the material is over times.
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
This probably wont apply to you since you mentioned paint.
If you ever decide to run trim coil you have to be careful which kind you use. Most trim coil will not work on treated lumber. I understand that some will but I'm not up to date on what brands will.
Just a heads up in case you change your mind about the paint.
I use them all the time for corner boards when using Hardi Plank. The 1 1/8" depth looks right, although around windows I prefer 2x material. I generally use a solid colour water-based stain with good results.
Around here everyone uses Radiata pine for that- treated, finger jointed pine boards, factory primed. Comes in 5/4, too. You should treat cut edges with a wood preservative and primer.
Azek is great too- more expensive though.
zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
I see you are in MN, and I would suggest you use either cedar or a composite (like Miratec), both of which are easily available in the metro area.
Cedar is available in a clear grade, which would be the best, but is also expensive. Plain cedar decking (from Menards) is also an option, but Since you don't need much, I would pick through the pile to get the pieces with the fewest knots. The knots can be filled with an epoxy putty.
For cedar, you want to use an alkyd primer, followed by two coats of 100% acrylic latex.
I would avoid treated wood, since there are other, better alternatives readily available.
And poplar? Don't even think about it (for exterior use) in this climate.
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
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For just a few bucks more, you could be using 5/4 pine trim boards. Most of the big box stores carry the stuff in their "hardwood" aisle.
Pre-prime it an all sides, and install it properly, and it will last longer than you will -- by a long shot.
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