If all goes well we’ll be moving next week- new home has no gutters. Looking for recommendations- aluminum, plastic, Leafguard, etc. TIA
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I think most here (though there are always a few contrary weirdos) will strongly recommend factory painted continuous aluminum over plastic, except possibly in a few special circumstances. There are also the wood, copper, and galvanized options, of course, and the option of no gutters at all. But aluminum is almost certainly your best value for a "normal" house.
In terms of Leafguard, et al, it depends a lot on where you live and what sorts of trees you have around. I've found the new plastic screen panels to be quite effective, but we don't have many pine needles.
If you go aluminum, don't even think about doing it yourself. The cost of having it done is so low that it's foolish to try DIY. Do, however, ask to see some of the installer's work -- look for straight, sharp-looking gutters, without awkward looking downspouts, etc.
Thank for your comments ............ been leaning towards either seamless or nothing at all. Put up plenty of Plastmo years ago- it's ok but nothing to write home about. Will try the no gutter option for awhile and see how it works- I have concerns about the runoff over the entry and walk out basement plus I figure the farther you get the water away from the house, the better. The basement in my late folks old Maine farmhouse turned into a navigable waterway every spring.
Depending on your location, and the design of your house, and the lay of the land, my recommendation might be to stay with "none of the above".
But that was a lot of "dependings".
Support our Troops. Bring them home. Now. And pray that at least some of the buildings in the green zone have flat roofs, with a stairway.
Copper?
Of course any choice depends on the existing circumstances (location, roof overhang, dainage issues if any.....), which you neglected to include.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"Copper?" ....................... with copper we might have to post an armed guard. ;)
When I lived in GA we had plenty of pine needles to deal with and the Leafgard gutters worked very well. Their only drawback was overflow when we had a really heavy rain.
From what I know, and believe me, I install or have installed one helluva lot of gutter in the last 3 years. Almost daily for the last few months. Overflow is more of a downspout being overwhelmed, or the gutter itself being too small in carrying capacity for the # of Squares of roof it is supposed to handle.
Either make the drops (outlets) more numurous, or larger diameter, and maybe increase the width of the gutter.
I have a past customer who had leafguard or the like installed on his home in NC moutains...when he had a problem with the water overshooting the inside miter at the valley locations..they ignored him repeatedly. So goes the Customer service aspect.
I installed an overshoot protecter ( for lack of a better term) and all it did was make the water over shoot farther away..LOL. What makes them leafguard is that cover and slot deal..very easy to fail in a heavy deluge.Parolee # 40835
Anyone have handy some guidance on sizing gutter systems? I've always wondered how to determine the optimal number of downspouts for a given roof.
Thanks
Lots of places with severe winters go without gutters. Sometimes they are thought to increase snow and ice buildup, and can be ripped off by heavy snow.
I am required by city code to install gutters.
I have seen alot of homes in my hood going with copper.
I will go with galvanized.
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"If you come to a fork in the road, take it"
>>>>>I will go with galvanized.Why? You have to paint them (inside and out) and keep them painted. Get heavy gauge aluminum instead. I used to do a lot of galvanized gutter, but the quality of the galvanization seems like it's dropped off.http://grantlogan.net/
Yeah, I can't see any point in going with galvanized. Aluminum will last longer.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Paint them?
Will I then have to paint my roof to match them? ;-)
Thats the only reason I want galvanized. I like the white rust, the patina, etc associated with galvanized.
I'm with most others though in standard applications....Aluminum. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"If you come to a fork in the road, take it"
I'm seeing galvanized gutters that I installed 10 years ago rusting out. I've got some ready to go to the dump that I'll see if I can get a pic of latter.http://grantlogan.net/
Refresh my memory if you please.
Wasn't Perryville LCC? Hows that compare in the long run to Cu Vs. Galv? Vs The Alum WE hang..I know the Lowes Al. is garbage.
I remember that soldering the LCC was a bear, but it was specced, and not what we usually work with..as a matter of fact, I think it was my first gutter I hung for you.
I guess I mean to ask, IS LCC a better choice than the ?able galvanization today, vs painting Cu? I must be missing something about it's use. Al is already close to the weatherd, not patined in Obdyke Brn that we use.
Is LCC that much more better for taking paint than Galv? Or what?
BTW, we have reached a conclusion, Dale says I need to tell you publicly, so I will. I will purchase a box of end caps for cu K in L&R and you can bill me, same with drops. Fabbing on site is a waste of time and solder. Besides being a PITA.
Yes, 5" and 6" and while we're at it Brn and Wht Alum too..I mean it, I'll stock the garage for OUR installs. I really don't care how much they cost, I don't hang for the hours on site, my job is to do a great install, and get home before I am too whupped to do anything.
We'll still be happy to do the I/O miters, in "K" cus not all is SQ, but we can adapt the runs, not the miter, those we make at a true 90, if the fascia is off, TFB, We didn't frame it, and can't bevel gage every corner.
Not a rant, just a request.Parolee # 40835
>>>>>I guess I mean to ask, IS LCC a better choice than the ?able galvanization todayIt was spec'd on that Perryville job because the architect wanted the longevity of copper, but not the look. The dull gray would be more authentic. Also, with wood roofs, the lead protects the copper from the acids. http://grantlogan.net/
Yeah, that makes sense. Plus the copper thieves are thwarted by the lead coating. That I can also understand being an advantage over clean copper.
Parolee # 40835
Factory painted "galvalume" if you can get it. It is a mix of Galvanized steel and Aluminum. Light and managable like alum. and strong like steel. It's good stuff. The eavestrough contractor will be able to run it off the back of his truck, seamless.
Dave
I just installed 6" half round copper using marine epoxy instead of soldering. They look awesome and are easy to clean because of their size and the hanger strap is only on the bottom. We also installed a rain chain which is totally cool. Now the price... thats another story.
Watch your long lengths, copper expands and contracts at a rate based on temp. in 100 degree swings a 10' section can gain/lose almost a half inch.
I'd not rely on anything that does not enjoy that movement. Soldering makes a 70' run, as one,Gooping a seam in the middle is gonna be a failure, unless it is riveted and gooped, even then..we don't do that, and gee? Never have a call back for a busted seam.
Lap the gutter 1" or so, and SOLDER IT.
EDIT: Never try to solder where goop was, and never try to goop where flux was....BTDT, wore out that T shirt.
Parolee # 40835
Edited 5/26/2007 9:16 pm ET by Sphere