Anybody have any experiance with these guns. Nails plywood, cement board, sheetrock to metal stud (12 to 20 gauge). Looks like a big timesaver but I’m a little leary.http://itwbuildex.com/gypfastair.htm
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Hey APR328,
Never heard of these particular nail guns before but have used thousands of the other attachment devices (specifically tapcon, and tex screw), these people make, which have save us thousands of dollars in labor and are true high quality.
I sent your link and a message to a buddy in Dallas who is a project foreman for a commercial interior finish out firm. He also uses BT forum so we may get some feedback from him.
I was truly amazed at the possible labor savings on these tools.
Getting tips like this is what makes Break Time forum great.
Cork in Chicago.
Hey cork have you heard anything from your bud? I'd be interested in what he says. Thanks
Careful, now. Don't think you can use that gun to hang drywall- the ad said "gypsum sheathing"- not drywall. It's made for fastening exterior materials to metal stud, and the depth control may not be appropriate for fastening drywall that needs to be taped and finished.
Bob
Bob,
Have you read the thread at JLC where the guy Steve says he only uses 1 screw for sheetrock on the ceiling and walls because he uses 4 blobs of glue?
One of his posts he compares glueing a 4x4 piece of wall tile as the same thing as just glueing sheetrock.
Here's a couple of his posts.
Re: pneumatic drywall nailingSteve 12/14/03 3:49 p.m.
Bedros,
I have started to put 4 blobs of about 1/2" on a wall stud and then one screw just near a electric box, vent, light, etc. On these walls, I bang the sheetrock slightly with my first - once the glue holds it's a super hold. That's right, no screws on the wall. On a ceiling, same with the glue blobs but only one screw.
When the glue dries, the drywall is straigher, less potential pops and better sound deadening. The glue used is a lot more, but saves in screwing and finishing them - so it's an even trade.
Re: pneumatic drywall nailingSteve 12/18/03 8:57 a.m.
Beezo,
I met a drywaller in CT. a while ago and he does custom homes. He only had one screw in the field on walls and one on each ceiling joist. On the walls he told me that the inspector had him put a screw in. I banged on the wall boards and they are solid, so I started doing it myself. Bear in mind, here in NJ we don't have inspections, only in a few towns and I stay away from those towns as they want a screw every 4 inches - ridiculous!
When I redid my house 10 years ago, I used heavy glue and removed all the screws on the wall and ceilings after a few days - well it's still up.
So now, on the walls I use 4 blobs of glue and put one screw near an electric box, light or vent. On the ceiling, I put one screw in a "V" pattern on the joist with heavy glue blobs again and put a screw near a box, light, etc.,
Try this yourself: Do a small inside wall, blob it with glue, one 1/2" blob every 8 inches and nail or screw around the perimeter. Band on it slightly with your fist and then go on the otheer side of the wall and you will see the glue oozing out by the stud. Now wait 2 days and try to take that board off! Bang on it, so will see that it's on there. Glue is much better than screws or nails; all I know is that it works. Once the glue dries, a fire, water damage etc. won't loosen the board. As a matter of fact, if you only screw, the water damage will soften the rock around the screw to the point where it's not holding. Remember, the difference between the screw shank and the screw head diamater is only 2 thousands of an inch - that's all that is holding the rock on. Now a blob of 1/2" glue that expands has more surface area holding it. Just try it on an inside wall and decide for yourselves!
Victor,
I don't have any drywall inspections, so that point is needless. As far as me gluing a board with studs, it takes what maybe a minute to a minute and half, now if you have to put 4 screws on every stud and finish them 3 times and then sand them - that takes a heck of a long time! It's not about time saving - it's all about a straighter wall that is on there more securely. USG in the Gypsum Construction Handbook on drywall lamination recommends only using a setting compound between the two boards, screwing it and then removing the screws the next day; reasons stated is no pops and a straighter wall or ceiling. Further, using glue in this manner instead of a setting compound is even better.
Here's the link for the entire thread.
http://www.jlconline.com/cgi-bin/jlconline.storefront/3fe995a300156f20271a401e1d290635/Catalog/1132?read=3657
I've heard of alot of people doing different things in the building business before but never heard of this one. Has anyone else?
Joe Carola
Edited 12/24/2003 8:42:57 AM ET by Framer
Edited 12/24/2003 8:44:40 AM ET by Framer
I suspect he means no screws in the field. Friend of mine was working on a tract job about 20 years ago where they did that on the walls - on the ceiling they had two scrwes about a foot apart. Only place I ever saw this and I've seen a lot. No idea how it held up, but I think it would probably be alright. Me, I'd rather screw it than glue it - stuff gives me a headache.
Re: that nailer, I would guess it is some sort of ring-shank.
I see what you mean about gypsum vs sheet rock. My question is the nail holding the metal stud. I can see hilti nails in steel beams, even 1/8" thickness gives a good grab but when you get into the narrow gauges it doesn't seem to me that you would have the holding power. I saw the cordless version of this tool on a job about 5 years ago nailing stainless sheet to high hat, I don't remember the gauge of either. The shot had to be right the first time or you would get a loose nail that couldn't be driven tight. In some cases you could beat (by hand) around the loose nail and it would drop out in an overhead application. Was it inexperience or would a thicker sheeting provide more forgiveness?