Replies

1. 
   Mark_T. | Aug 11, 2000 07:49pm | #1

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   How about using 1/4" Hardi-backer instead of Durarock.

2. 
   Guest_ | Aug 11, 2000 09:10pm | #2

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   You could treat the subfloor much like the way the mudset tile of yore. Remove the subfloor, install ledgers to the side of the joists so the subfloor fits in between and flush to the top of the joists. Solid block if you're worried about the joists twisting. Should gain you 3/4". Then add all the other stuff on top. What's the floor in the mbr?

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 12, 2000 03:44am | #3

   *Ahhh. How great minds think alike. Calvins method was my first thought. Beside the 3/4" gain, you will take the scare out of driving screws into those water lines which are notched into the top of your floor joists (If your craftsmean is anything like my 1906 cottage style). It is a sound method and I wouldnt sweat it if you have a 1/2 - 3/4" height differance in the two floors. Use a marble saddle if necessary. I think it was standard practice for that era.

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 12, 2000 07:00am | #4

   *right now, just subfloor in the mbr. :)it's going to be 2 1/4" wood flooring. don't remember the type of wood. had a floor guy in and he could match it to the rest of the house. that's an interesting idea. though not as trivial as you would think in my house. i'm translating what you said as... cut the subfloorinto 14" strips and lay the strips between the joints, right? myjoists are kinda sorta 16" oc, +/- an inch or two. the joists are2x8, literally, they measure 2". well most do, some more or someless. the joys of a 100 year old house. ...alan

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 12, 2000 07:03am | #5

   **all* the plumbing is going anyway, so that's not a concern. thanks guys! the next step is to figure out the load of my glass block shower + tile floor and see how much bracing I need. ...alan

3. 
   Ted_Weddell | Aug 12, 2000 06:46pm | #6

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   Tear out the floor and sleepers, down to the subfloor. I like to use two layers of 3/4" cdx = 1-1/2" thickness. Measure the depth from finished bedroom floor to bathroom subfloor, ie how thick was everything you just tore out? That thickness minus 1-1/2" for the cdx and minus the thickness of the tile and thinset gives you the thickness for the new sleepers. This is also a good time to adjust for an out of level floor.

4. 
   Guest_ | Aug 12, 2000 07:13pm | #7

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   How does one handle the height differences when building up a floor
   for a tile install? All my previous installs where on slab so there
   wasn't much of a height difference to deal with.

   The house is a 1912 Craftsman. I'm doing a re-remodel of the master
   bath and bedroom. After I'm done with a new subfloor, durock, NuHeat,
   the layers of thinset, and tile, I'm going to need a stairwell to
   get into the bathroom. Ok, a slight exageration.

   I see two options. Deal with it by a combination of sloping the
   new floor going into the bedroom and a threshold into the bathroom.
   Or, take out the existing joists and put in something smaller but
   thicker. What is the "right" thing to do?

   I've been doing larger and larger remodel jobs over the years and
   learning as I go. I enjoy doing the work and I know that the
   final result will be quality, though not done nearly as fast as the
   craftsman doing this every day. Unfortunately, books don't make
   up for real life hands on experience. This is the first house I've
   owned that's not on a slab and I'm not sure how to proceed. I find
   it hard to believe that people live with the hight differences and
   sloping floors, but on the other hand, I could see some major issues
   with moving joists.

   Advice?

   ...alan

5. 
   Guest_ | Aug 12, 2000 07:13pm | #8

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   You dog, now you come out with the fine pts. But as long as it's open and your spans are kosher or can be made so, you should end up with a beautiful thing. Now step over to the tavern cuz you be buyin.
   Best of luck.