Question (s), am looking for Ideals, for handrail, point of attachment. Job= 27 lf concrete wheelchair ramp, 4ft wide, 1 1/2″ tall curb(s), 36″ mim clear space between curb(s), 1/12 pitch. I’am looking for a clear path(read, Thought process) for the proposed ramp/handrail. As of now I’am figuring on using 4×4 post, apprx 6′ on center, 34″ tall , with 2x top rail, with handrail attached. Sooo’s what is the “best” way to attach/secure the Posts to the concrete. Thank You all’s, Jim J.
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I'm not sure what the frost line is where you work, 44, but if I were building a wooden handrail here in the temperate Pacific Northwest I would consider extending the posts 2 feet into the ground and pour concrete around them.
Have you considered having a steel handrail manufactured and extending it down through the curb into poured concrete anchors?
Are there any landings in this run, or is it straight? I've only built a few ADA compliant ramps, but out of control wheelchairs is something I try to take into consideration on ramps with landings.
Jim B, our frost depth is 16", used to be 18", but the code officials changed it, go figure, I personnelly, like, min. 20" depth. The thought of a "Pipe" handrail system has crossed my mind, but, I will most likely do the Handrail out of wood, for I feel comfortable in the fact that I can build a wood handrail system that will stand the test of time, and my own requirements of safety/function/ asthestics, in that order. The Spec. sheet that I recieved from the V.A., states, one can go a maximun of 30', with a pitch of 1/12, my situation is an actual run of 27' with a drop of 27" , so I don't see a landing in the picture. Site conditions pretty well dictate a straight run. I thank you for input, Jim J
Jim J, am I to assume that since you said "2x top rail, with handrail attached" the 2x top rail is NOT the handrail? A 2x 4 or 2 x 6 handrail would not meet the grip requirements for a code approved handrail especially for use on a wheelchair ramp. You're going to have another code approved handrail attached to to the inside (the actual concrete ramp side) of this wood post and wood caprail assembly, correct? Just want to clarify that since that's not entirely clear.
Well anyway when we do something like this on a concrete ramp like your describing we'll sometimes use galvanized pipe sunk in the concrete and secured with epoxy or hydraulic cement at the post locations and then either build or drop our 4x4 boxed newels (the posts you're describing) around those pipes. That way we don't ever have to worry about the post rotting or expanding and contracting which can fracture the concrete around it. It also makes changes to different post and railing styles easier and more convenient in the future too. We will then put a screw or bolt through the newel and the pipe to keep anyone from pulling it up and will also inject foam into the box in the space surrounding the pipe to keep it from moving around too.
There are also post anchors for steel pipe rail as Jom Blodgett described which make for good connections that can be placed at the time that the concrete ramp is being poured
We have also drilled out the bottom of solid 4x4 posts and then dropped them over those same galvanized posts that have been stubbed off (cut shorter) and epoxyied them in place with a fairly thixiotropic (thick) mix of West Systems Epoxy and a filler such as 403 Microfibers or 406 Colloidal Silica. While this method may sound quick and easy in reading it here on-line it is certainly NOT quicker and easier in actual practice. Drilling a good straight and plumb hole in the end of 4x4 posts is not as easy as you would first think and getting a think mix of epoxy to fill the gaps in the bottom of the post is both a little uncertain since you can't see inside that connection and it can get messy as the epoxy squishes out of the hole.
We have also done the exact reverse of that method having a stubbed piece of pipe driven into the wooden post first and then using the epoxy or hydraulic cement in the post hole drilled in the concrete. A much better method.
I just wouldn't actually ever put a wooden post down in the concrete.
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Jerrald Hayes, I plan on complimenting the 2x top cap with handrail on both sides,with a minimun clear space of 1 1/2" between 2x and handrail, with a height of 30'' to 34'', 1 3/8" dia. wood handrail. The V.A. gave me a Spec Sheet to go by, (or no monies paid out). I'am leaning towards, installing 2--1/2'' x 12'' bolts/allthread in the edge of the concrete, prior to pour, with sufficient "turndowns" around each bolt/post location, with 4" of bolt standing proud, unless, I decide to notch post apprx. 1 3/4'', then I would be only 2'' proud. as for drilling 4x4's, once upon a time, I drilled 17-- 4x4's, 46" long, 1'' hole, in an exsisting railing/post system, for the electricians, my gosh, my whole upper body was sore for days. I only blew out the side once, eh eh. Whenever I do put wood into earth/concrete, I coat the wood with Henry's tar emuslsion, and some gravel at the bottom. I thank You for your respose, Jim J
We started framing the railing for our ADA ramp today. We drilled holes in the side of our forms for 1/2" foundation bolts - one or two depending on much height the side walls gave us. For post locations with only one bolt, we put the post in a footing as well. Still, the side walls in some post locations weren't high enough for any bolts, so those posts were set in deeper footings. Our posts are RWD, so any wood that would be in soil contact was treated with a liquid epoxy to seal the wood. We've been doing that for a year or two, so we'll see in ten years if it stops decay.
We spaced the nuts of the bolts off the forms using PVC; that left us with enough exposed bolt for a 3 1/2" post, one malleable washer (galvy), and the nut.
Our railing has two 2x4's on edge, top and bottom, and a 2x6 cap on the flat. Rail brackets will be attached to the posts and top rail, after which we'll still have the rail code min. 1 1/2" between rail edge and cap.
Raynb3, Mickey, and fbart1, Thanks, oh how I enjoy this board. You all be safe out there Jim J
This idea might not work for your situation, but we have had success with the following method for installing vinyl posts for handrails on cement ramps. After the cement is well cured, drill two 3/4" holes 6" deep at the location of each post. Fill holes with epoxy, and insert 1/2" rebar , 30" long into each hole. Scribe fit the bottom of the posts to fit the slope of the ramp so that they stand plumb, and place them over the rebar rods. Brace posts in place, and fill to the top with cement. Oftem posts end up being wobbly, but with this system they have been very secure and stable.
You're getting good advice but I thought you might be interested in this link.
http://www.access-board.gov/adaag/html/adaag.htm
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