Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 12:55pm | #1

   *
   The house comes first, finish the siding. Remember (mark) what you have for backing for the ledger later, and when you attach it shim each connection. Overkill is good here. Some folks would say you might want to consider a freestanding deck.

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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 05:16pm | #2

   *I would put in the ledger now. If you are going to stain the shingles use PT Lumber and stain it to match the shingles. If you are going to let the shingles weather, you could cover the ledger with shingles held on with smooth nails until you build the deck. In either case, flash over the ledger and cut a drip groove on the bottom. Copper flashing is not too expensive and might make a decorative element untill the deck is built.

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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 07:46pm | #3

   *Rick,Ironicly there's an article in the new FH about building a deck and the author attaches it directly to the cedar shingles. He uses pressure treated shims to even the surface for the ledger.Ummm, I'd never do this, although it may not be such a bad idea. With his method, rain will hit the deck, maybe travel towards the house and run into the shingles and down to the ground, there's no way for it to run behind the shingles. But it could run through the shingles where the nails and lag bolts are. Also with this method, ice could build up in the little space between ledger and house. It seems like it could be a problem. Then again, he says he's been doing it for a while, with no problems and he lives on Cape Cod so...One of your questions is "or should I just bite the bullet and PLAN...?"I don't mean to be disrespectful butDUH!Planning is a good thing. That way there's no surprises. I would lag bolt the ledger to the (plywood covered) rim joist, use flashing over the ledger and under the shingles. It would probably be good to stick the flashing under the Tyvek if you can. If you slit the Tyvek to do this, use Tyvek tape to seal it back up tightly.Don't shingle down to the ledger board, shingle down to the decking that sits atop the ledger board.As for height, try to make a good step down to the deck to prevent ice and snow from entering in winter...Hope this helps,Dan

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   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 12:38am | #4

   *Dan, No surprises when you plan?would you consider doing my planning for me because I seem to be doing it wrong."the best laid plans of mice and men......"Good Luck,Stephen

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   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 01:12am | #5

   *RickDan & Ron give good advice. . . I had an identical scenario some years ago, and bolted the cedar ledger to the house and cedar shingled around it, as Dan outlined, with a flashing and space above ledger for decking to eventually slide under shingles. It remained like that for several years, and didn't look too out of place, until my customer had me finish off the deck last fall. . . all was still in good shape (cedar ledger, flashing, tar paper etc.) I then notched and bent the flashing to accommodate the joists. As it turned out I had left enough space to deck with 2x cedar, but in the interim had switched over to 5/4, this allowed me to install a 3/8 strip of cedar on top of the ledger to allow the first length of decking to be raised at the house, under the shingles and slope down over it's width onto the joists adding some extra drainage.As a cost saving method you might consider using P/T. material for joists and beams where they will not be in sight, and use the more expensive cedar for decking, rails, stairs etc. I do this all the time now, using cedar selectivly on the framing. . . posts, rim joists and headers, and the visible sides of built up beams.

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   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 04:36am | #6

   *All it takes is a pencil, paper and a mighty large eraser!Dan