Hi All,
I’m working on a job where I’ve been presented with a nice old oak door. Has one large beveled pane of glass in the middle and some nice trim. It also has some mint condition hardware that is already in place. One of those large mortised locksets from way back when. 3 four inch hinges.
I’ve been asked to hang it as an exterior door while it was obviously from an interior office. The entrance is well protected so it’ll never get wet and I’m in So.Cal anyway so it should be stable enough.
I’ve hung many prehung doors, replaced doors, and made custom door jambs but never made a door jamb to fit a pre existing door! So I have a couple questions.
1. Weather proofing. I’ve installed a great door sweep that mortised into the bottom of the door-silcone from Conservation Technologies. But I’m wanting to do something equally as nice for the stops. I’m imagining silicone strips of some kind that fit in a kerf but am not finding any locally-probably ordering fron CT again. I lieu of that any suggestions? Bronze z channel considered and rejected and no glue on please.
2. Considering the weather proofing how much room should I leave? As in it’s a 36″ wide door should my jamb be 36 1/8″ from side to side or ??? Cool thing about the door sweep-it’s adjustable up to 1/4″ but what’s the ideal size top to bottom?
I’m asking this as I’m getting advice that says “make the jambs 36″ wide for a 36″ wide door” Sound like it’ll be tight.
Thanks,
Warren
Replies
I'd do some careful evaluation of the door - exact width across several locations, is is square? is it beveled? both sides?
I'd make the jamb +1/4" of the door - I wouldn't modify the door unless absolutely necessary - - if the door is less than consistant, then ya got to do some strategizing - -
CT sells material similar to the sweep you like for the jamb - and the tool to make the groove to hold it - kinda expensive for a one off deal...I don't know of any common product that is of that quality...
Not modifying the door is the key.
I'm waiting on a CT catalog. Since I'm making the door stops from scratch I can put a thin kerf blade on the TS and make a key for it no problem.
With that in mind is the round hollow tube gasket material the way to go?
TRhanks,
Wa
With that in mind is the round hollow tube gasket material the way to go?
I know of nothing better, it will be interesting to read the opinion of others....
are you making the jambs/stops out of oak? are you making an integral threshold?
check the door for flatness/twist also (winding sticks) - you can't generally remove it, but you can compensate with the stop - that would have an impact on your weatherstrip key..."there's enough for everyone"
With that in mind is the round hollow tube gasket material the way to go?
I know of nothing better, it will be interesting to read the opinion of others....
Best I've found. That they offer EPDM in so many shapes is heartening. And not expensive.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
"are you making the jambs/stops out of oak? are you making an integral threshold?"
yes the Homeowner want windows on either side as close as possible and the same style. The rest is already trimmed out with 2 1/2" 1x so a 1x jamb secured to a 2x trimmer will have to work.
I knew there was questions about the exact sizes so I was able to frame out the 7' opening with a full length header, so the single trimmer should work. Or will it? It will basically be a vertical support to the header ( about 6" above door jamb)conected to either outside wall. I'd prefer a 4x or double trimmer but I plan on securing it well. I have some perfect 1x stock for the jambs and some "perfect" kiln dried studs for the trimmers. I'll be able to hang the door to the hing side trimmer, square and plumb it, then attach the strike side trimmer pretty much right against the strike jamb. Should I use shims even if I'm exact and my materials stable? Any alternative 1x materal that is more "perfect" that a KD fir stud? I'm actually leaning towards using some 1/4 sawn fir that's available but about $12 a stud instead of $3. Cheap insurance.
I'm also considering putting "dutchmen" in the original hinge mortises and using my Templaco template to make new ones and transfer perfectly to the jamb. I've had luck by being pain staking about transferring the locations in the past but..How would you guys do it?
Thanks for the help,
W
Since you're making the stop, you might want to check out some other weather stripping options. We can get a kind of ogee shaped stuff. Foam based with maybe a vinyl covering. I think it seals much better, and more forgivingly, than the round stuff, and it's at any box store.
I also think Doude's right about the slab/frame size, but it could depend on the swage of the hinges and the bevel of the door on the lock side.
Whatever you do, don't make the new frame too big...ahh, you knew that...shut 'em tight<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!
you can take this for what it's worth.
I take the hinge jamb and fit the old door hinge locations on it. I'll do this on the bench. Then I'll fit the lockside jamb, cutting the header length to make it all work. Pop the hinges, assemble the jamb. Leave the sides long and fit the height to the opening. The threshold can be included in the assembly too. Do your weatherstripping as you see fit.
A long time ago we were presented with all sorts of salvaged antiquities. Priceless examples of days long passed. It was looked on as both an honor and a chore to re-present these doors to use. We figured any other way would put too much importance to where it didn't belong. The door, if it's cool, is the center of attention.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
....so the single trimmer should work. Or will it?.. ...I'd prefer a 4x or double trimmer but I plan on securing it well. I have some perfect 1x stock for the jambs and some "perfect" kiln dried studs for the trimmers. I'll be able to hang the door to the hing side trimmer, square and plumb it, then attach the strike side trimmer pretty much right against the strike jamb. Should I use shims even if I'm exact and my materials stable? Any alternative 1x materal that is more "perfect" that a KD fir stud? I'm actually leaning towards using some 1/4 sawn fir that's available but about $12 a stud instead of $3. Cheap insurance.
is this a 4" wall? I don't like the idea of hanging/striking a serious heavy door off 2 2X4's - - definately I would spring for the fir, and would probably consider a couple of oak studs - of course hardwood studs are easy to come by around here - - I'd consider taking the jambs all the way to the header - 1X oak is stiff and strong and would help stiffen the assembly - in this case, I'd glue/screw the jambs to the trimmer - - altho it's the owners call, I gotta question the aestetics of relatively narrow trim around a 36" door - seems like it ought to be heavier than 2 1/2" - - even if the rest of the room is 2 1/2", the entry assembly could be bolder and accentuate the rest of the room"there's enough for everyone"
whatrix,
I use the CT corner groover with various seals. For a rabbet cut applied stop I like the WS15 flipper seal. It seals the door and the stop.
KK