I just bought a 1600 sq ft loft in a 1908 concrete and brick wherehouse in downtown Atlanta. To soften the industrial look, I wanted to instal a nice blonde, maple, hardwood floor over the concrete. There is a heated commercial space on the floor beneath my loft. Also, to complete the picture, I have electric heat.
I would like to put down a vapor barrier and then a layer of 1/2″ or 3/4″ hard foam insulation under the wood floor. Can I put down 3/4″ T&G plywood right on top of the insulation, then 15 lb felt and finally, the 3/4″ maple? Will the insulation make creeking noises? Will the insulation support a Grand piano without crushing?
Would it be wiser to instal sleepers with the insulation inbetween?
And if I might indulge you for one more question: is it wiser to use 2 layers of 3/8″ plywood with overlapping seems, or just one layer of 3/4″ T&G?
Any advice would be appreciated.
ICNLFN
Replies
If the space downstairs is heated, why would you want to insulate yourself from this source of free heat?
Consider glueing the wood floor directly to the concrete substrate using the Sika AcouBond system. See it at Edelweiss Flooring's website. I think it is the best way to bond down a wood floor that has radiant heat underneath.
If you are not stuck on a nail down product, why not alleviate the 1 1/2 of subfloor and/or insulation , and go with a laminated real wood system, these are designed and guaranteed to work on heated floors , installed with a membrane the total floor height is 3/4 . Just spend time for leveling any dips etc.
Personally I wouldn't insulate if you have heat in the floor below.
I also would use a "floating" floor system. That, gets glued to each other and "floats" on top of your subfloor.
I did that two houses ago using a French parquet oak flooring I ordered from France. I had a Baby Grand Piano on top of it for years as well as a heavy wood stove.
Its relativly easy to install a floating floor. Just be sure to have 5/8" shims along the walls that you will later pull out. What I did was sectioned the room off in 1/4 ers and started from the center and worked towards the walls. You may need to screw some cleats down in the first 1/4 section so that when you bang the planks or parquet tiles together with your rubber mallet they dont move.
Be lofty
Namaste
andy
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