Replies

1. 
   Junkman001 | Apr 06, 2007 10:24pm | #1

   I know many will dissagree, but I never use nails in that application.  I dont know if you can get hardie screws that short.

   Mike

   Insert initially amusing but ultimately annoying catch phrase here.
1. 
   fgw2 | Apr 06, 2007 10:29pm | #2

   So your suggestion would be..............

   Floor deflection is within the green zone and 1/4" Hardie means no transition strips.  Hate to increase thickness just to use longer fasteners.

2. 
   woodguy99 | Apr 06, 2007 10:34pm | #3

   This is from their website:

   FASTENERS

   For floors and walls:

   • Minimum 1-1/4" long corrosion-resistant roofing nails.
   • Minimum 1-1/4" long No. 8 x 0.375" HD self-drilling corrosion-resistant ribbed waferhead screws.
   • If compliance with ANSI A108.11 is not required, minimum 1" long No. 8 x 0.323" HD self-drilling corrosion-resistant ribbed buglehead screws may be used for floors.
   • If applying 1/2" Hardiebacker cement board over gypsum, use minimum 1-3/4" long corrosion-resistant roofing nails.

    

   The closest I could find online is these http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/0810-FNC/Flat-Head-Steel-No-Co-Rode-Screws.

    

    

    

    

3. 
   JonE | Apr 06, 2007 11:00pm | #4

   Exact same problem - 3/4" Advantech with staple-up radiant.  I put thinset down, laid down the Hardibacker (1/4") and then used 3/4" stainless square drive screws from McFeeley's on 8-12" centers.  May not be the BEST way to do things, but it worked.