It seems I can’t get away from Hardie and I haven’t really come across a good way to make sure my boards are level and have a consistent reveal while still maintaining efficiency. I’m curious what most of you experienced guys are doing. And by the way, this is a long-winded post about Hardie, which proves that I have probably spent too much time thinking about this.
Block houses with 1×2 furr strips:
I start the job by using a laser level to shoot in the bottom board all around the house to make sure that at least the first run is as good as possible.
I have tried snapping lines for a 6″ reveal and this works pretty well. BUT, using the 7.5″ boards, it seems you’ll see variation in board width from plus or minus a fat sixteenth. So if you just snap lines on a 6″ reveal layout, you have to fudge over or under your line to keep the bottom of the boards even. For example, if you butt a 7 7/16 board to a 7 9/16 board the bottoms need to match and if you go back to matching your chalk line after you’ve butted the ends, the board won’t be level.
My partner and I have also tried using 6 inch notched blocks to keep the reveal consistently at 6 inches. My main concern with that method is that the block is fumbly and is prone to compound error. If one run is off, it can throw off everything above it. (It’s not too difficult to have a board drop a sixteenth when you’re nailing it, even if you’re reaaallly careful.)
So that’s what I’ve tried but I’d really like to improve efficiency. I realize it’s impossible to make it perfect but I want it to look good. …slight variations are imperceptible with paint and caulk anyway, eh?
And BTW, my sinuses cleared up, I just shot some saline up there.
Replies
One of the best tools available for consistent spacing is the story pole. After you have shot your starting points all around the structure you tick mark every corner board and piece of trim, using one and only one story pole. No errors generated using different poles made by different people. Tick marks are for the bottom edge of the board, not the top. Put your chalk box away. Alright, you can use it for the first course.
Where you have a single piece spanning trim you line up the bottom of the board on the ticks. Where you have extreme runs you use an "L" shaped block that you jam up under the previous course bottom edge and rest the next course on top. It doesn't matter if you lose a 16th because every dozen courses you either pull your tape or check it against the story pole. Check more often if you're anal. You can make your own blocks or you can spend $20 and get an adjustable. ($40 if you work with a partner). There is also a hanging tool that lets you work alone. I made mine out of a piece of Simpson strapping.
You'll find that with time you'll be so close you won't have to check anything but the long runs and that check will show you dead on 95% of the time. Also, Hardie is so stiff when held on edge that if you and your partner hold each end of the board a couple of feet from each end you will never experience a sag to throw off your courses.
Thanks, I'll give the story pole a try. Usually, the runs aren't too long without running into a window, corner, or door.What would you do on a gable end? Block it?
Edited 12/7/2004 7:06 am ET by bluemoose
YOu can buy a nice tool aften listed in FHB, or make one out of a simpson strap
another option is to use the little clips that look like z metal, made just for this purpose. we use them often, story pole, as suggested earlier is a great way to check things
alos we shoot our hardie on, and thenit does not bounce around like when trying to hand nail
of course with Hardie , remeber, dont breathe the dust and dont touch yor eyes
Edited 12/7/2004 12:26 am ET by Isamemon
The clips you mention and most of the lap gages are made for a 1-1/4" lap. He's using a 1-1/2" lap.
And I'm thinking that you may want to intentionally vary the lap by a 1/16 or so to minimize any cuts for windows/doors. In addition to a story pole, I made a sample layout using 3" pieces of Hardie screwed to a 1x3 just to see where I would end up on the sills and tops of my windows. Just some thoughts.
Eric S.
Are those clips used only for positioning and then you remove them?
no they stay
and it is a waste to have them stay
however, I sided a 1200 sq foot house by myself with using the clips, and they cost me about $60 for that job
couldnt find a temp that cheap
also used a laser fo rthe first course and a story pole and a chalk line and a ..........
so are you using the different revel to save money, picking up an extra 1/4 inch
the clips are made for hardies "recomended revel"
Not to save money, I was just under the impression that this was the reommended reveal. The boards are 7.5" and I overlap each board 1.5", leaving 6" exposed.
the clips are made for the standard hardie revel
they are quick, and seriously can turn a whole house into a one person job, in a pinch
we love em, but we have also made hanging straps that are removable
theres a neat tool often in FHB, Ive never used it so cant comment
We use a water level to get our first course...stick the hose in a bucket, only thing that moves is the hose...then it's just reveal blocks...those hardie hanger things look pretty handy, though... Don't worry, we can fix that later!
No problem. You've got your starting points all around the house. Ralph's story pole will help you stay on track, but don't worry about a sixteenth here or an eighth there. Keep nailing, check for level every other course, and you can get readings down off your frieze board or with the story pole or up from the bottom of your first course or watertable, whichever you have--this should keep you pretty much in line as you go around the house.
The cement siding varies in thickness and straightness enough to let you go along without worrying about exactitude. The key is making neat cuts around trim, protrusions, etc or being able to caulk well.
I've had good luck with the Hitachi saw made for this siding, and a diamond blade, plus an angle grinder and my Bosch jigsaw with the abrasive blade for cutting the stuff.
I agree Mad Dog...
I've made story poles...mostly I just mark the ends with the 7" layout and mark a spot in the middle. The hardie is straight so I just get it to my big black marks and nail. It comes out straight enough but if you put a tape on it you might find 1/16 variations from course to course. All joints are flushed up on the exposed bottoms, but if it's running out of level 1/16'' I'll never know.
Incidently, when I used the story pole, I had one small offset wall end up being 1/2" out of level! No "system" is perfect....something always manages to go wrong!
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
ya blue,Long time no see. glad you're hanging in there too. Still in the mud?
I'm still alive and wallowing Mad Dog.
Just barely
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!