Is there a relatively simple and/or strong way to affix Hardiplank to masonary (concrete block with 1/4 to 1/2 stucco) wall? What about the use of underlayment or housewrap?
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Attaching furring strips with concrete nails or Tapcons would be the easiest.
Thanks,
Hadn't thought of Tapcons....was hoping to find a pneumatic fastening device that could avoid furring. Was going to try mounting 1 - 2 inch foam panels onto the concrete exterir and then attach the hardiplank ontop of that. Toomuch to hope for I guess.
Xrex
I'm interested in the same thing. We've got a stepped concrete wall that is flush with the sheathing on the side of the house. Obviously the framed portion will be nailed as usual, but what to do with the planks as they extend onto concrete?
I've seen guys drill a hole in the concrete the same size as a nail, then insert a piece of wire in the hole before hammering in the nail. The wire binds between the concrete and nail to fasten it. I have no idea if this is appropriate for Hardi, but I'm considering it.
Scott.
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Don't consider it. It'll never work.
Perhaps applied cast stone at the transition on the foundation.
>>>Don't consider it. It'll never work.Ok, thanks. I'm back to thinking about Tapcons.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Scott
I use that trick with the wire and the nails all the time,low technology, but a high rate of success. I have never had any luck with tapcons, but a lot of my friends swear by them.
I don't see why with the right nail and wire you couldn't make it work. Try it out in some concrete, probably cheaper than the tapcons.
Greg in Connecticut
Well, one things for sure, if I were to use that technique it would be with stainless nails and stainless wire. I've only got a very small surface to cover, less than one square, so cost is far less important than effectiveness.Thanks for the input.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Drill a 3/16" hole in the concrete, drive a golf tee in the hole behind the siding then drive in your nail. It will never come off.
Golf tees work great they are prefinished tapered hardwood plugs.
I use this alot on houses in this area, we have alot of stepped foundations.
Matt
Why not he basic plastic plugs. I would think that they would be cheaper than t's..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
...and last longer. I wonder about the longevity of any untreated wood that is in direct contact with concrete.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
A few years ago I had the same situation, a stuccoed block foundation wall about 3 feet high that transitioned to asbestos siding (which lapped the block at the first course) I always thought that it looked terrible so when I resided, I brought the fiber cement weatherboard down to 6 inches above grade. I used tapcons and predrilled everything 16" oc just like you would nail it. Since I have a 6 " exposure, I did this for about 5 courses. Took a long time, but the result was well worth it, it makes the house look bigger and more uniform. There is the slightest bump out where the transition is between where the block stops and the framed part of the wall but you would have to be a perfectionist to notice it. All in all, well worth the effort.