Folks – My first post, though I’m a longtime lurker and I have learned a lot here.
I’m planning the installation of some hardwood flooring in a small (400 sq ft) addition I just had put onto my home, and I’m having difficulty deciding if I should use a Porta Nailer, which I’d buy (Amazon has them now for about $200) or rent a nailer ($55/day with a compressor at my local rental place). This is my first time putting in a floor, although I’m a reasonably experienced home diy type and an intermediate woodworker.
I’d rather go with the Porta Nailer so I can take my time, and also the GC on my addition said he thinks one gets a tighter installation than with the pneumatic nailers. My concern is how I’m going to nail the boards in areas where I can’t swing the mallet. The flooring is going to be prefinished, so I can’t just face nail and count on the sanding and finishing to completely hide the holes. My understanding is that the pneumatic nailers will allow use much closer to the wal since all that’s needed is a tap to activate.
I do have a 16 ga finish nailer (Paslode cordless), which I’m hoping I can use for blind nailing (it’ll shoot 2 1/2 nails) somewhat closer to the wall than the Porta Nailer can go. Is this a good idea? Will these nails hold ok?
How do folks manage this problem with the prefinished flooring? Any other thoughts on the tooling issue?
Many thanks –
Ken Platt
Granby, CT
Replies
Hi Ken,
You can blind nail the courses you can't nail with the nailer, but eventualy you will have to face nail .
Fill holes and any other defects prior to sanding , finish as normal . Use a colored if prefinished .
DPR
What kind of wood? When I installed some beech, it was soft enough that I could use my 15 ga finish nailer close to the wall. However, the brazilian cherry was too haed and too brittle, and it split easily, so I had to predrill and hand nail.
I have a Porter Cable pneumatric nailer, and you're right, just a soft tap is all it takes. That can be very helpful in tight quarters.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
use one of these:
http://www.powernail.com/Nailer%20info/101sn%20-%20new.htm
sometimes you can rent them
they use the same nails as the angle nailer, which leaves a small slot shaped hole for putty filling. these holes blend incredibly well with oak grain.
this is the real deal
http://www.powernail.com/index.html
carpenter in transition
Edited 4/21/2005 11:17 am ET by TIM_KLINE
I think the answer may depend on if you have more flooring jobs to do after this one. Or if you really want to own a floor nailer. It won't take four days to install your floor if you rented one and you can always sell the one you buy. Money decision.
As far as when you get so close to the wall a nailer doesn't fit, I predrill through the tounge and hand nail with a #6 finish nail. Into a joist if possible. Use a little construction adhesive underneath and some scraps to wedge the piece tight, then nail it in. I don't feel a 16 ga air nail is enough.
A air nailer gets the boards as tight as a manual. With a lot less effort. Manual nailers can be tough on the body and palm of your hand. Especially with a brand new mallet.
Good luck, have fun.
Thanks for the info. I do, as it happens, have another flooring job in mind; another room of our home that has a pretty skanky carpet that was put right over ply. After that job, I'd likely sell the Porta-nailer. Money would probably work out about even, maybe I'd do a bit better with the Porta-nailer if I got a hundred or so for it later.
So it looks as though my trade off is being able to work at my leisure vs less laborious work and easier nailing near the wall.
Pretty close call. Thanks again,
Ken Platt
I've used manual nailers and air nailers a lot and I'll take the air nailer any day. 400 sq ft might not be so bad, but after a couple of days with a manual, your arm is ready to fall off (well maybe just MY arm). I don't think either one lets you get significantly closer to the wall than the other, but I'd say the air nailer drives the boards against each other tighter. If you just lightly tap the air nailer, it will fire the staple but it won't drive the boards together - you still need to give it a decent smack.
When you have to switch to the finish nail gun, use a couple of scrap pieces and a pry bar against the wall to drive the boards together while you nail. And use more nails since they won't hold as well as flooring cleats or staples. When face nailing the first and last rows of boards, try to keep most of the nails where they'll be covered by baseboard and base shoe. On a prefinished floor you'll find that a good job of color putty will make the nail holes as good as invisible.
I have both air and manual...and use both at times (hand the manual of to my helper!).
An air nailer, in my experience gives as tight or tighter fit than manual, it's consistent and a lot faster and easier. The magazine is a little tighter so you can usually get one course closer to a wall.
The problem I've had with rentals is that they're often abused and prone to jams and misfires which can be a real PITA.
Buy a new nailer....you'll get your money out of it by use and resale.
Not to discourage a new tool purchase, but we nailed hardwood by hand for many years. You do have to hit the nail and not the edge. You can get up to the last couple of rows if you go easy on the swing. Old fashioned and a little slow but still effective.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer,
I have about 90 sq ft of unfinished floring to install in a hallway to repair wated damage and need to hand nail. In '57 ny dad laid 800 sq ft by hand, but I don't remember what nails he used.
Do you use 8d casing nails, cut nails, or what?
HarryD
The common nail was the cut style, sometimes called a horseshoe nail. The blunt tip helps prevent splitting but you have to stay back about three inches from the ends. I've also used some spiral underlayment type nails with a small head. You have to use a nail set with both types to bring them home. Both types are hardened.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Ken,
I did a prefinished floor a couple years ago.
I suggest that you buy an air compressor and rent a pneumatic flooring stapler. The rental will be much cheaper by itself, and I'm sure you can find a use for the air compressor, despite already having a paslode.
I would not have wanted to have used a porta-nailer on the floor. You can still whack the pneumatic flooring stapler pretty hard when you need to get things tight, but you don't have to do every one. You can get fairly close to the wall, but will still need to face nail the last 2 to 4 rows.
Hope that helps
I would absolutely use air! I have used both and the outcome is the same. I am in pretty good shape, but will say the manual nailer will kick your ... It gets sloppy. I appreciate taking time, there are enough do it yourselfers buying air nailers and then returning or trying to sell them. You can find a great deal on one, and guess what you can re-sell it also. The small compressor is useful for many other things - it will save you time when putting back up the trim .... trim nailer, it can even put air in your car tires! Good luck