When installing premade hardwood treads on a plywood staircase, what is the method for not having to face nail? Under the next riser along the back is blind, but is a troweled down flooring adhesive sufficeint for the field and nosing? What is the method for pre-building the treads? Is 3/4 strip flooring edge glued ok? Any info would be great. Thanks.
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The nails generally just hold the glue to dry, so your method seems sound. You might want to add some weight to get a good contact, Id be worried about any slight adjustments, to the boards. Its not uncommon to have slight cup or a hair of a twist.
With a good grain shoot, and good fill that will match the color after the wood has been exposed to UV, its really not that big a deal, and if you think like paragraph 1, the nails can be pretty small.
If you were worried about it, the best methods would be to attach from the back with pockets, or housed stringer.
-zen
Edited 10/19/2005 6:12 am ET by zendo
this works for me, rabbit the tread,grove the risers,put a nailer cleat on the underside of your tread set back for your overhang and next riser,apply adhesive to stringers and lock tread into joint and face nail into the nailer cleat thru the next riser high up so the cove molding will cover the nail holes.you don't see any fasteners once the glue dries your all set,i order materials already groved and rabbited but you can still do on site. george
Good answers already provided about fastening.
We purchase treads from our materials vendor.
Oak tread 1" (full 1") x 12" x 50" $40.00.
Thanks to all for your time.Now, how to make a tread. The floor to match is cumaru, Brazlian Teak, and I am looking at around 90 bucks a piece from an online site and I need 23, a winder set and a landing plus shipping to Maui. I'm still shopping. The square footage for material is not that expensive so I'm thinking of glueing them up myself. Can you edge glue 3/4 strip flooring or do you need full square edge facing?( The nosing can be square edge from thicker stock) Glued up on a ply substrate (with stick release) and sent thru a sander with a round over on the nosing. Does this sound like it will work? Titebond III holds teak? Thanks again.
Your ideas about gluing up treads sound good to me. If there is a local cabinet doorshop, they may have glue-up trays for doors with clamps. If you bought the lumber, perhaps they would help you with glue up, keeping the stock straight and flat, the right glue and the end sanding.
My cabinet door shop built some oak pie treads for a circular stair for me. They used the same glue-up techniques as they would when building doors. Rough dimensions prior to and during glue process, then cut slightly over and sanded. We cut to fit on site, installed and finished. All turned out great.
On one occasion we built an entertainment center countertop from T&G oak flooring. We made sure of moisture content, brought it in the house for 10 days prior to install to "climatize" and kept it tight during install. It turned out great.
Go for it.