I am to install a 4-panel sliding patio unit in HO’s Gable end (1 story) wall what now has 4 3-10×4-10 fixed windows in it.
They are looking at a 12’x6’8″ 4 panel sliding patio door unit, the middle two slide, the outer are fixed. from Milgaard–fiberglass or wood clad…
Can anybody school me as to calculate for the required header to span the 12′ over the door unit, which I will just assume provides no structural support? I understand the gable end wall is not bearing, per se.
The wall is the gable end of a 24′ wide room, TRUSSES, 24″ OC, 5 pitch roof and a perpendicular interior wall with closets in it @ 16′ from the ext wall. Doors go in that 16′. I think there’s 1/2″ ply sheathing, then board and batten siding. 1/2 ply roof sheathing and shake roof. This part of the house is built on a slab.
Also, can anybody suggest a better 4 panel sliding unit to go in this wall? I’ve installed plenty patio units but never a 4 panel slider.
Thank you.
Edited 7/6/2007 8:02 pm ET by Waters
Replies
Waters,
Your gable end wall may well indeed be a load bearing wall.
If you have a ridge beam with post down to the top plate of the wall it is carrying the load for that post and ridge assembly.
Time for a look at it from the attic before making the assumption.
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
indeed.
I'll look.
THx,
Scratched up in there to find trusses! No problem. But still need advice on a header. Still need something even with the gable truss, no?
Is the "Truss" at the gable actually a Truss or is it a "gable end truss" which has flat 2 x 4's but no diagonal web members? If it is a "Structural gable truss" having both the diagonals and the flat 2 x's then you have no load on the wall, it must have the vertical 2 x's interrupted by the diagonals to be a Structural gable truss If it is a "gable end truss" with no diagonals then yes you need a header sized for load bearing. ("Gable End Truss" is a misnomer, they are not trusses at all.
They are just a flat framed wall standing at the gable that a truss plant frames for the builder.) I have an old rule of thumb that says with no uncommon loads a header carrying only a roof load should be 1 size deeper than the opening is wide. 3'+ opening = 4 x 4 header, 4'+ opening = 4 x 6 header etc. Very non technical and unapproved by engineers but it has worked as a theoretical and practical method for me. I ain't no engineer, and don't claim to be.
I always ask one or a BI if I have any doubts about what I am doing. "Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
Thanks all for input.
All understood and confirmed.
Pat
double 12" LVL and be done with it.
u own stock in the company?
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Like Piffin, I'd use a 2X10 or 2X12 header. If you're under a gable end, there isn't MUCH load from above. But there is some. With a door that wide you sure don't want a lot of deflection in the header. So while I think a big header is a bit of ovekill in this case, I think it's justified.
Be courageous. It's the only place left uncrowded.
Marvin would be my choice for the unit.
M Integrity if cost is an issue
sounds like no live load from above but there is still significant wind load on this wall, so I'd probably go with doubled 2x10 or 12 anyway. In retrofit situations, it is easier than dealing with criples above header to plate
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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