Header & Trimmer Alternatives
I want to avoid trimmer studs for my windows in load bearing walls, but a single Simpson header hanger (HH6 for 2×6 walls) costs $11. Does anyone know of other code-approved methods for installing headers?
I’m considering making an insulated header by sheathing both sides of top and bottom plates and nailing to the king studs. I’d recess the interior sheathing so it would be flush with the inside face of studs (for 1/2″ sheathing I’d rip the plates to 5″ and notch the king studs).
Replies
That's more than $11 worth of work per side, isn't it? Why are you so interested in not having trimmer studs? Is it the thermal bridge concern?
Thanks Mike. My reason for avoiding the trimmer is 3-fold: you're right, primarily to avoid thermal bridging; secondly to install a window flush to a corner, which is easier with a hanger; thirdly for lumber reduction.
And I don't think the hanger saves me any labor: the hanger would take as long to install as the trimmer stud. I mentioned the price mostly because it's surprisingly more than a joist or beam hanger (and not as readily available at my lumber yards).
Dan
> ... secondly to install a window flush to a corner, ....
Why? That's a strange place to put a window. Unless it's big enough to run the whole width of the wall, in which case it has a sort of high rise office feeling to it.
-- J.S.
You want the window opening on one side flush with the inside of the wall, so if it's a 2x4 wall all you have to do is make the header longer and the king stud will be flush to the outside of the wall and then nail the trimmer underneath the header and fill the rest in with a piece of 1/2" plywood.
Doing it this way you'r making your corner stud and king/trimmer stud in one shot. The other side use a hanger. You have to make a corner stud anyway.