*
Hello,
sorry for the bad drawing.What I want to do is put a header up but as you see in one corner the roof line slopes so I can not get the full header height.Can I cut the corner of it to fit or does that reduce its headerness(?).I do not think I am bearing a huge weight but still in theory does this work?I look forward to your answers.
thanks Dan
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
From plumbing failures to environmental near disasters, OHJ staffers dish on our worst and best moments.
Featured Video
SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than BeforeHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Dan - cutting the corner off
b does
reduce the strength of the header. (I kind of like the "headerness" thing - you might have coined a new term here)
Your header should be analyzed to see wether or not it's sound based on how much weight it's carrying.
Also - you could keep some of the height in the header by eliminating the top plate in the sloping portion.
*Dan,How long is that span? If things are to scale, the cavity looks only to be a typical 16-inch stud-bay. Keep in mind that, IMHO, headers are sized to prevent the typical mode of failure, ie, excessive stress (tension) in the bottom fibers....hardly the condition I see here. However, I do NOT offer any professional analysis, here.Brian
*Dan-I could be wrong, but it looks like from your drawing that the roof slope is not dropping on the header, which should mean you have a gable end wall (or the equivalent) over the header. Unless there are floor joists over it, there should not be a whole lot of weight there, certainly not the amount of weight your header is sized for. Also, I don't think that cut will detract from the strength of the header too much, depending on how long the cut is.Just an observation, hope it helps.
*Is a header even required? 2x10 is pretty big to begin with. As Nick says, is there anything above the window? If you can omit it the wall will be better insulated.
*what is the span of the header. It appears you show 4" thickness on the small end....a 2x4 header may be sufficient if the span is not great
*
Dan
Do you mean a double 2x10 header, or just a single 2x10? Given your rough opening of 66", a double 2x10 header would suffice in single story constriction. A single 2x10, though, might not, depending on your roof load.
*
The span is indicated at the bottom of the drawing: 66"
Rich Beckman
*While true that cutting off any part of the beam will weak it a little, the highest stress on the wood fibers in a beam with a uniform loading is the compression of the top fibers at the mid-point of the beam or the tension in the wood fibers at the bottom of the mid-point. Some loading ramps, to save weight, have a curve along the bottom of the beam on each side and you might have a ramp with a thickness of, say, three inches at each end where it rests on the truck bed or the ground and six inches at the center (not having one here at my desk, these are wild guesses...) - these curves roughly approximate the stresses in the beams. Thus if there is enough wood left at the end so that the beam does shear off where it is resting on the other header or plate or whatever you might well be ok. (I need to put in an "Andrewd" type disclaimer here as it has been a long time since I took a mechanics of materials class...: You should see a licensed profession in designing any weight bearing members whose failre may lead to injures where you might get sued for all of your past and future earnings...)
*Dan,
Joseph Fusco View Image
*
Hello,
sorry for the bad drawing.What I want to do is put a header up but as you see in one corner the roof line slopes so I can not get the full header height.Can I cut the corner of it to fit or does that reduce its headerness(?).I do not think I am bearing a huge weight but still in theory does this work?I look forward to your answers.
thanks Dan