Does anyone know George Nash’s email? I have an old article he wrote in 1981 about combining stick-framed walls with a timber framed ceiling and I want to ask a few questions.
The electrical hookup is only one part of the equation; when installing a hot tub, there are a number of key requirements to keep in mind.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
I don't, but I do the same thing all the time. What's up?
Sorry for taking so long to reply. I have some questions about the process etc.
1. I will be working with green white pine, is this ok?
2. I was planning on using 4x8 for the rafters and either 4x8 for floor joists or 6x8's. The span is less than 14' and the spacing will be 32" oc or what ever you might recomend.
3. Is 32" oc using 4x8's or 6x8's too close? Will this end up looking heavy?
4. I will be working with rough sawn material and all dimensions are nominal. Will 6x8 rim beams look ok? I will be using 3/4" T&G on the interior walls.
Thanks for your help, I am sure I will have other questions.
Mark
1. I'm in the west and not familiar with green white pine. Douglas Fir is the choice here. Timbers are generally green, but you still want to get them reasonably dry.
2. The project we're doing now uses 4x10's 3' oc for a similar span. Generally Fir is stronger than pine, so 4x8's sound suspect to me. I think you'd have a very bouncy floor. 6x8's would be better, you're right about them being heavy looking. 4x10's would look less heavy and are 17% stiffer than 6x8's.
3. I generally don't use a beam for the rim. The joists sit on the wall, and a finished blocking piece sits with its back flush to the wall, exposed to the room. This allows for insulation behind it and uses less material.
Good luck
Dan
Is there a source you can point me to that shows the strength of various timbers?
When you say you use blocking, do you mean blocking that looks like a rim beam so it sticks out our do you just use blocking as trim?
How do you frame for the joist if you do not use a rim beam? Do you set the beams on the wall and then insulate between them?
How do you do your summer beams?
Edited 5/7/2002 10:57:46 AM ET by MERBESFIELD
Check with your library, they will have a copy of the UBC (uniform building code) it has a chapter on strength of building materials. Another source is Jack A. Soborn's book Timber framed house. My final authority is Timber construction manual by AITC.
Which George Nash? The one from CT? From the New Haven area?
You got me? The one who wrote the artilcle in FHB about Timber Framing with stick construction.
Which issue of FHB? I doubt the guy I am thinking of is the same one you are looking for.