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My experience with this kind of thing is to have a “liner” put in, but even then that was the cheapest solution that the military in Germany would pay for. Our “old tub” had lost any of its smoothness since installation in the ’60s. A new tub was out of the question, and a liner was the only solution. Took up no extra space once installed. Don’t know if liners are available on this side of the pond and hell, if you can get someone else to replace it for free with no cost to you……..the latter sounds like the thing to do. Good luck.
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Phil--If the supplier does not agree the crack was due to a defect in the tub, you can do the repair yourself. Ask your supplier, or the manufacturer, about a repair kit. They should have repair kits available or can tell you where you can get one with their color match.
If you get a repair kit, follow the directions closely and you will find it is not difficult. I am assuming the crack is not a really large one. If worse comes to worse, RV suppliers sell repair kits. Good luck and perhaps you will be lucky and the supplier will replace or repair.
BILLY BUSSEY
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The crack sounds pretty easy to get to. Go ahead and order the patch. A few things to remember. the gell coat will only stick to areas that have been sanded and cleaned. If you can get ahold of a small file you can abrade just the inside of the crack and along its edge. This will help keep the gell coat from sticking to the surrounding area and makes for a cleaner more professional job. Some times it's good to mask the area off with masking tape, keeping close to the crack on all sides. Then spread the gell coat with a small putty knife pushing the gell coat into the crack. It's important to follow the mixing instructions for the gell coat. Too much catalist will make it set up brittle and possibly crack. But this doesn't usually happen on small mixes. When you "first" patch the back of the crack with the matt and resin this will seal any possible leaks. The gell coat patch is for aesthetics. So if it's an easy spot to get to from the outside you can go ahead and install the tub after you patch the back and it has dried. This will allow you to use the tub if there is a long lead time for the gell coat. Don't move the tub while the patch is drying and always keep the patch areas dry before patching. You can use a blow dryer if necessary.
Good luck and let me know how it's going.
TC
*Thanks everyone.Phil
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Not sure if this was mentioned as a future precaution but it has worked for me. I installed a two piece MAAX tub on my cold basement floor and I felt that my 200+ lbs would crack the inflexible fiberglass bottom. Since the bottom was off the floor a few inches even with shims, I used several cans of expanding foam under everything but the drain (cut out a plastic jug and use it to prevent caking the drain to gain access in the future).
This served two purposes. The floor never flexed again (felt like cast iron) and worries about cracking were gone. Second, the bottom was warm and stayed warm whenever someone was actually in the bath.
I'm sure a Home Depot or other center could supply a repair kit. Good luck.
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Yeah but is it resin or epoxy fibreglas?
*Use epoxy. In fact, West Systems (most boat stores) has a repair kit that's excellent.
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Arggghhh!
I just put a crack in my new one piece fiberglass tub/shower. It starts right from the vertical flange area on a sidewall just at the top edge of the tub. I was maneuvering it during installation.
How do I fix it and keep it from spreading? Should I drill a small hole at the end of the crack?
Thanks in advance,
Phil
*What kind of "maneuvering" were you doing? These units will usually take a lot of punishment unless you really beat on them. Are you sure it was your fault and not a flaw in the product? If there's a question, call in a factory rep to examine it. If they determine it was your fault and not a flaw, they can usually recommend someone who is factory certified to do the repair.
*uh oh...
*It can be fixed by a specialist. But if it is not a high end unit it may be cheeper to replace it. It will be one hell of a callback if the patch doesnt work.
*Believe me when I say this, I was treating this tub like it was a Ming vase! That's what gets me, is that I was being so careful. I didn't even screw it to the walls yet. Maybe it did/does have a flaw in manufacturing. And it wasn't a "cheapie" either, at least not to me. $437 + tax + delivery. "Premium" is the line, I forget who the manufacturer is. I have to dig out the paper work. Phil
*Around here aqua glass has a man that repairs cracks in tubs. They do not usually charge on new units unless it is obviously damaged by the installer. I have had cracks appear that the repairman said were caused by the tub getting hit from behind...such as in the shipping dept. and not showing up until later. Anyhow it only takes them an hour or so and i think it costs around $75 when you have to pay depending on the size crack
*allaround is right, these fiberglass units will take a beating. I would call a rep first and put a claim in. If you need to repair it yourself here is a quick how to. First check if the damage is clear through by looking for the crack from underneath. If it is, either the local boat yard or home depot will carry a fiberglass patch kit. Sand the area, on the bottom of the tub, with some coarse sandpaper and clean with acetone. Acetone is the only solvent you should be using. Buy a disposable brush, follow the mixing instructions on the repair kit and patch the area with matt and resin. Make sure you get rid of all the air bubbles. Once dry you'll need to get some gell coat to match the colored finish from the manufacturer. Now check the top, if it is a hairline crack, egg it out with utility knife, carefully, lightly sand surface area, clean with acetone and patch with gell coat.Once dry check if area is slightly proud of the surface if it is not sand and patch again. Now working with wet dry sand paper, use water as a lubricant and sand 220 to 600 you can go more if your anal. use compound and car wax to finish up. If yopu need more help just post some more questions. Good luck TC
*Phil:The bottom line? I'd lie. I'd claim the darn thing was cracked on delivery, and was defective. Raise a ruckus, photgraph the thing, and write letters. Blame the manufacturer, shipper, dealer, anybody but you. Ultimately the dealer will take of it. Probably costs him $50 to make.Feeling guilty? Phil the darn thing probably was defective, or it wouldn't have cracked.I buy most of my tools, electrical fixtures and plumbing supplies from a dealer, not a home center. I pay more I know, but when it comes to returns, I can take back tools, and suupplies without a question. Last month a broke a recessed light fixture, snapping off one of the mounting bolts. Took it back to good ole George (whom I give lotsa business), and he'll return to the manufacturer (whom George gives lotsa business).
*TC & ScooterUnfortunately I do not have Time on my side. Takes 6 to 8 weeks to get this thing ordered (actually took almosty 10!!)I've inquired at nore than a few places that handle this product.So I will go the repair route. The hairline crack starts on the nailing flange and only goes 1 1/2" in the visable area (front facing edge of sidewall). Stops when it gets to a stiffining (ha ha) backer strip of OSB embedded into sidewall edge.BTW, the company is MAAX, Inc in Quebec. They told me they have a repair kit, but I'd have to order it thru an auth dealer.Anyone else have any dealings with their products?Phil
*...painter'll fix it! - jb
*My experience with this kind of thing is to have a "liner" put in, but even then that was the cheapest solution that the military in Germany would pay for. Our "old tub" had lost any of its smoothness since installation in the '60s. A new tub was out of the question, and a liner was the only solution. Took up no extra space once installed. Don't know if liners are available on this side of the pond and hell, if you can get someone else to replace it for free with no cost to you........the latter sounds like the thing to do. Good luck.