Im building a curved wall and I need suggestions on 2 things
1whats the best way to header a window in a curved wall
2 whats the best technique for making a sill to connect wall to foundation
any help is greatly appreciated
Im building a curved wall and I need suggestions on 2 things
1whats the best way to header a window in a curved wall
2 whats the best technique for making a sill to connect wall to foundation
any help is greatly appreciated
Making mitered head casings is a breeze with this simple system.
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Replies
they was an article about two years ago that showed this in FHB. It was the issue with the guy jumping off the roof on the back cover.
What's the radius on this wall?
Have you seen all of JeffB's photos on curved window trim over at the JLC trim carp gallery pages?
Flat windows were framed into a curved wall with a large radius, but all the jamb extensions, the stool, head, sill, apron were curved.
http://forums.jlconline.com/photos/thumbnails.php?album=15&page=2
thanks Gene, I'll have to have a look-see
Just went over there, I guess I had seen them, didnt remember the name.
I worked on a house where we did something similar, not as long a run of windows but the same system.
Doug
Edited 3/29/2006 10:04 pm ET by DougU
about 8 feet
You asked about curved headers, what kind of windows are you using?
I think someone else mentioned it in one of your threads, you can give the illusion of the whole thing being on a curve using standard windows.
Did you see the link that Gene posted from JLC, I know that dont tell you how to frame but it does show what results you can get using standard windows in a curved wall.
I'd have to draw a 8' radius out on the floor to see what I could do with headers, I'm not a framer but I've done countless curved work so making a curved header would be simple if you really needed one, not sure of that yet.
Doug
Thank you very much for the info, the windows will be 16 inches by 5 foot double hung. Im building a turret that sits on the corner of the addition
(1) Is this a load bearing wall?
(2)Depends on the radius....small enough to arch some sill plates outta PT 2 x 12? Hows bout building up 3/4" PT ply?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
yes it will carry a load of about1sq of flat roof
I don't have any answers to your questions, however, it made me think more about this condition, and I don't see how a load bearing header could actually be curved.
Think of it in plan view. If I had a large opening, say like 5' along a curved radius, and I curve the header with the radius, out of steel or whatever, the middle of the header is not in line with the supporting ends. Does this make any sense? If I could sketch it for you it would be clearer.
So if I put a load in the center of the header, it would want tip out towards the exterior. In my mind, the header would really want to twist at those supports.
Now you've got me wondering about this...
I see your point very clearly. You expressed it in words without a picture needed.
But, if the 5' window has supports -- say columns at the 1 cubit* points (a three cubit window instead of 5') --, the curved header, if continuous instead of three seperate pieces, would behave as a cantilever instead of a simple beam.
Or the true header could be placed higher up rather than right above the window frame as is the usual practice. [Usual practice being top plate, cripple {length challenged} studs, header, window frame.] Instead, you would have: top plate, straight, true, load-bearing header, false curved header, window frame.
~Peter, Book Review Editor for The National Enquirer
*It is a Breaktime tradition to use cubits in appropriate situations. One cubit = 19.2" is is marked by the black diamonds on tape measures.
Edited 3/30/2006 1:05 pm ET by pm22
Yeah, after some though I was thinking most likely there would be at least some sort of header that was straight. At first I thought flush framed in the ceiling above, but I realize that would interrupt the joists above so the header would not aleviate any load that was being carried in the exterior wall above. If you were to drop the beam to below the joists, however, you would see it inside the space, but you could effectively cantilever the joists over the beam, and then the joists could pickup the load in the curved wall above, essentially leaving no load (or very little) over the curved windows.
Edited 3/30/2006 1:09 pm ET by xosder11
I think I will just attach the ceiling joists to the header instead of laying them on top
I simply would sandwich the ends with some steel and bolt it
Edited 3/30/2006 7:22 pm ET by dj3323
ill try to give u a drawing
Can you put 1 straight LVL across your RO and cut curved furring strips out of 2x stock for the top and bottom of the LVL?
Or can you put a header in the ceiling or floor joists above the RO and not in your curved wall?
I'm just thinking out loud and tossing some ideas your way, may not help you though. Good luckYou're entitled to sh!t.---Tony Soprano
For 8' r. I would plane a couple of 1x12s to about a 1/2" then glue them up to the curve. Cut the floor plate out of 2x12 .
Now, this was for a porch roof, but it was an 8 ft radius, with 4 posts holding it up; the guys laminated layers of 1/4" pt plywood with screws and glue to make a curved beam to support the roof; same thing for the floor, actually. If memory serves, the final beam was about a 4 x 12, ie, 16 layers of 12" wide ply.
We raised our headers up to the top to carry the roof load. On narrow windows, you don't need much of a header.
blue
Thanks man, it helped seeing the photo...you have any more pics of that wall ..it got me curious how u made the top and bottom plates
dj323
Just swing them out of plywood, all you need is a router and a long board, mount your router to it and swing the radius.
I think you said 8' so set your router to cut on the long side of the cutter at 96" (assuming 96" for the inside radius) and then if your using 2 X 4 walls set the router to cut on the short side of your router bit 99.5", you'll have your top and bottom plates, 3 1/2" wide.
Of course you have to double them up to make 1 1/2".
Doug
Dj, we cut the top and bottom plates out of 3/4" plywood. We needed two pieces to make the 180 degree segment.
Heres the only other pictures I have of this beast as it was being framed.
We used only one plate on the top and one on the bottom. Note that the second layer of plates on the top are hanging into the room. They are serving two purposes: adding strength to the structure to raise it and after it's up, they will act as drywall backing.
We cut all the parts for this wall using our power saw. The radii aren't so tight to require a router. The sills are cut from 2x12 with the power saw too. The outside radii are easy..self explanatory. The inside radii are a little trickier. You have to focus your attention on the back of the blade instead of the leading edge.
blue
Here's an article I ran into. No. 148 FHB. Framing Curved Walls. pg. 64
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
thanx man now all I have to do is find the issue LOL
Pleased to help. They sell reprints if you can't find the issue in your collection or the library.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time