I’m a DIYer. I’m replacing a few bedroom doors in my house. Yesterday, I tried to hang the first one and am having some issues.
The door is a Trustile, size 30″ x 80″ x 1 3/4″. It was hung (by one of my lumberyard’s wholesalers – they told me this is common, and that Trustile doesn’t typically hang doors) on a 5/8″ jamb using 3 ball-bearing hinges (4 1/2″).
Appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks!
As for issues, there are a two:
1. The door closes nicely for the majority of it’s swing, but at about the point that the leading edge of the door reaches the interior edge of the jamb, there is some springback. If I push the door to the stop and let it go, the door opens a few inches. Looking at the hinge-side jamb, it appears that the bottom of the jamb (below the bottom hinge) is twisting when I push the door to the stop, and thus causing the springback.
2. The reveal (between the jamb and the door) is not consistent. On the hinge-side jamb, it is about a nickel’s width from the top of the door to the bottom hinge, and then it closes about below the bottom hinge. On the latch-side jamb, the gap is too big (but consistent) from the bottom of the door to about 5″ from the top, after which it closes out (though not as tightly as the hinge-side).
For context:
– Using a 48″ Stabila level placed in the middle of each jamb (longest level I have), the hinge-side jamb is dead on, and the latch-side jamb is off by ~ 1/32″ – 1/16″ (but the bubble is still in between both lines).
– Using a Swason Speed Square, the hinge- and latch-side jambs are square to the head jamb.
– However, using a laser level (Bosch GLL3-80), lining the laser up with the bottom corner of each jamb and then following the line up, it appears the tops of EACH side jamb are about 3/16″ tight (meaning they bow in towards the door).
– I checked the door itself for square using both the Speed Square and corner-to-corner tape measure methods, and the door is square.
– Only modifications made to the door before installation were cutting a bit off the bottom and top of each side jamb to account for an unlevel floor and make for an easier fit.
My theory:
Though I’m not sure why two high-quality tools (Stabila and Bosch) are giving me such different indications, my gut tells me the Bosch is right, and the hinge-side jamb needs to be moved out at the top. This would seem to fix the hinge-side bottom and latch-side top reveal problems, as well as the springback.
My alternate theory is that there is some issue with the way the jambs were constructed.
Questions:
1. What do you think of my theory?
2. How critical is a long level for accurate door hanging?
3. Ever hang a door using a laser level?
4. Any other things I should check before cutting the door out and starting over?
Thanks again!
Replies
mc
Where are you located-I'd come over, take a look and make it right which might be simpler than trying to explain what to do.
Who set the jamb and door in the opening? I realize the door company prep'd it for the jamb, but who set the unit?
Is it trimmed out yet?
Seems the bottom of the hinge side jamb might be cockeyed to the plane of the door (forcing it open instead of allowing it to close and latch.
If not trimmed-pry out that corner (same side as the swing of the door) a bit and see if it corrects the hinge bound problem.
Where the jamb and door come real close, this might be a problem as well-get that jamb better secured to the framing at that location (remove shim a bit if necessary).
And/or-check the fit of the hinges (in the mortise).
And/or check that the stops don't bind.
Questions:
1. What do you think of my theory?
Might be right, might not.
2. How critical is a long level for accurate door hanging?
Best, but not the only way. Using the 4' level-check bottom of jamb to top of level-if it's perfect and consistant the entire length-move level up and check it's consistant from the former top of level spot to the top of the jamb. If yes.........cool. If you found any gap in either placement of the level-repeat the gap at that point to the top of the jamb.........because 2 plumb points that don't connect might not mean the whole shebang is consistantly plumb, no?
3. Ever hang a door using a laser level?
Only to keep the tops of multiple jambs in the same plane.
4. Any other things I should check before cutting the door out and starting over?
see the post above.
It sounds to me like the hinges are mortised too deeply and need to be shimmed out.
Thanks for the info. I'm in NJ, so I don't think coming out is going to work (though I appreciate the offer). I set the door in the jamb. At this point, I'm going to cut the door out and adjust the corner (or start over, if I have to).
Mc
Try the pry bar at the bottom edge of the jamb ( near hinge) first, to move it more in plane with the rest of the jamb.