I could sure use some help on this issue from ya’ll experts on this great site. I currently have concrete flooring. I am interested in putting 3/4″ heart pine tongue and groove floor planks. Someone mentioned to put cheap linoleum on the floor first, then glue the wood to the linoleum. I will then have to stain and finish the pine. Seems to me if there were any movement in the wood due to it being on top of the linoleum, the integrity of the finish will crack. Is there any other way to attach wood to concrete without having to put down plywood through out the house? Thanks!
Eric
Replies
I installed 2300 sq ft of cherry over concrete slab a few years back. Best advice at the time was to use cover the concrete with rosin or felt paper, lay 3/4 T&G plywood or OSB, screw the board to the floor, then cover with the finished wood. The felt and plywood provide moisture protection and a little insulation. Also, nailing is much easier.
My install was above grade. If you are below grade, you have additional issues to address. I would stay away from heart pine directly to the concrete though.
Good Luck!
Thanks Neuf, the method you describe is one in which I was familiar with. I was just hoping there might have been another way besides the OSB or plywood. I was looking at the expense side of the project. But I don't want to jeopardize the quality of the job. So......... looks like plywood!!
Edited 9/7/2004 4:08 pm ET by EDARST
I have come across this issue many times in remodels here in the NW. To help cut the cost, I generally will use 1x3 wood strips either powdernailed (remington) or glued, depending upon whether the project is above or below grade. We'll also put down poly or contact paper as a vapor barrier. then nail your flooring to the wood stripping (laid perpendicular to t&g flooring joints).
If you have a moisture issue, consider pressure treated plywood.
hope it helps,
charlie
Great, sounds like a viable option. How far apart do you put the slats?
Spacing will depend upon the flooring material. harder wood = larger spacing. with the relative softness of pine, and assuming it's standard thickness of 3/4", I'd go with a 8" O.C. spacing, but no more, as the floor may end up feeling too "bouncy".
You *could* experiment with 10" or 12" spacing if cost is an issue, however you'll want to test for flexibility. When testing for flex, consider that you are essentially creating a plane of interlocking floorboards, so the overall strength of the final finished floor will be slightly greater than one, two or even three boards. I'd lock together four boards (don't nail them, of course) and then step on it to see how much it flexes between your slats. Whatever you can tolerate is the maximum spacing you'll want.
cheers!
charlie
Thanks Charlie for your time and input. I'll give her a shot.
Over radiant heat and gypcrete, I have use Bostich glue at $125 per 5 gal can, and one clamps the wooden floor to previously layed and glued sections, and weights it down with boxes of flooring. I can only get about 4 feet of flooring per day with this method.
The Bostich glue is awesome, but looks like Elephant c u m and smells about the same, too.Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Hey Boris ! While you are on board , I have a mud bed with radiant heat. It has hairline cracks that resemble aunt Tilly's spider veins . Could I use the kirdy or what ever that stuff is called to cover the concrete and keep the small cracks frome teligraphing through the tile?
Yeah but......
Ditra is what you are referring to (Kerdi is waterproof and is for showers), but it is really expensive. If you wanna be cheap, any old membrane like Nobel TS or a Pasco PVC would be fine.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
So I could glue down PVC and then thinset and tile right over that? Is pasco PVC better than say Oatey PVC ? I can get Oatey in town. Thanks for the help .
Pasco, Oatley, Nobel Chevy Ford. All the same. The membrane has to be the kind with the white fleece on the top, though, for installing tile over it.Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Sorry to be the fly in the ointment, but what is the reason the floor has to be attached to the concrete? Have you considered a floating floor such as Kahrs? As long as you leave enough room for expansion, their click system works really well.
Someone mentioned moisture, irrespective of what avenue you decide on, I would absolutely ensure that you have the moisture under control. If not, you may be in for a big surprise after the first big rainfall. I would tape a piece of poly on the bare concrete floor for 48 hours and see if the poly has moisture on the underside. If you detect moisture, it is safe to say you have a problem which needs to be addressed. Some folks just put down two layers of 6 mil poly taped and perpendicular to each other to control the moisture, but I don't feel this is a long term solution. You need to find how the moisture is coming in and deal with it at that point.
Good luck
Alma
A 'floating floor' bears the same resemblance to heartwood pine as crab apples do to Granny Smiths....
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Sorry about my comments, I overrlooked the heartwood pine part.
Alma
6 mil poly over skim coat of Purestick asphalt mastic on concrete.
1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4 notch trowel asphalt mastic over poly.
Lay 4 x 8 sheets guaranteed dry 5/8" cdx plywood
1 1/4" concrete nails every 10" on center.
Check floor next day for hollow spots and add nails as necessary
Sand plywood edges to level
lay 15 lb. felt over plywood and install floor with 1 1/2" staples for blind nailing or
skip felt and full spread urethane adhesive and staple floor
top nail with 1 1/4" senco nails
wait one week and then sand and finish. GW