This may be in the archives somewhere, but man they’re intimidating. I just finished tiling above a tub–white subways with grey grout–and want to caulk all the inside corners and along the tub rim at the base of the tile. Since I’ve just done a meticulous job of this, I want to get the best, most mildew-free caulking results I can. Grey 100% silicone doesn’t seem to exist. Every tile store and web site recommends Colorfast, which is siliconized acrylic latex. It doesn’t even seem to have Microban or some other mold and mildew inhibitor. So what to do? One guy recommended that I use the Colorfast and then just seal it with the grout sealer to get more protection. Could I do this? Would some types of grout sealers soften or weaken the caulking? I tried the Colorfast website, but it isn’t working. Please help!! My wife wants a working tub.
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Try DAP¯ Silicone Plus™ Premium Silicone Rubber Concrete & Masonry Sealant. It's gray and mold resistant. Should be easy to find. I think it's light gray, but not sure.
Where did you get your grout?
the company that makes the grout I use makes caulk in every color they make grout
I dont know if it has the microban, but it seems to hold up well
I just looked in my color samples and they have several gray colors
contact:Custom building Products
1-800-272-8786
http://www.custombuildingproducts.com
The Tile Mart carries it if you have one by you
The Home Dump has limited colors but will order others for you
Caution though, I dont use it if I have another choice because I find it hard to work
with (the caulk always seems to continue to flow even after I release the pressure
on the gun). They have both sanded and non sanded versions.
Edited 5/22/2009 8:04 pm ET by LIVEONSAWDUST
for caulking i use this method
mask each side of the joint, apply the caulking product, strike it off nicely, then remove the masking tape. Voila, perfect caulking line, no smear!
grout caulk, available anywhere you buy grout
if you keep it clean you need not worry about mildew
Look into Latisil sealants from Laticrete. Many colors.
Just towel off the tiles and grout each time you shower and you won't have any mildew or soap scum either. If you don't mind the soap scum, just towel off the corners each time. It will take you five seconds and you'll never, ever need worry about mildew again.
When caulking around the tub rim, don't you fill the tub with water first??? Pulls down the tub with 8lbs a gallon...let it set a day or so before you empty????
Experienced guys, is this a good idea for him? ;>)
Bill
I buy the caulk same place as the grout and it is a perfect match. Laticrete is one brand I favour.
Mildew staining is from lack of cleanliness in cleaning the shower. if the caulk is growing mold, the grout is too.
I don't like to caulk the joint between tub and tile. Water that gets in needs to flow out rather than be trapped by caulk. Not all agree with that concept here and go for the pretty.
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I agree with not needing to caulk between tub and tile. Originally, I was planning not to, given the way I detailed the moisture barrier and backer board, but I should have scribed that first course of tile to the tub to achieve a uniform margin--even Kohler can't seem to produce a straight rim in fiberglass--bummer. Certainly over the years whenever I've cleaned old caulking out of that tub-to-tile junction, there has always been water and funk behind it. Any time I install a two-piece fiberglass unit, I'll caulk back in on the joint flanges when assembling them and leave the surface alone. If it's well-sealed back in there, there's nothing to worry about and the routine cleaning is much simpler.Thanks for the input, all. The bottom line seems to be that we all need to spend more time cleaning/drying our tubs. For the record, I have seen very few tubs without mildew. Of course, I don't get to see too many tubs until clients want me to deal with them.
One thing keep your fingers out of the caulk, use tools. Blue tape each side of the joint and use a wilsonart ( has small rounded corners) sample to "tool" it.
Peel off the tape and NO TOUCH till cured!
With taping off the joint and tooling, do you need to worry about tugging at the caulk when peeling the tape off? In the past, I've had a very steady and slow hand and been able to get away with it, but I'd rather use your method.
I use the tape to cut down on smearing the stuff over the adjoining surfaces.
If you check out the laminate samples there is a selection of corners to use.
My main aim is to keep the caulk "clean" while it cures.