Hi,
In the middle of a bathroom redo. Here’s the problem, 1920’s house, removed all the tile in prep for re-tile. Wanted to keep the tub but as you can see in the pics, the old tile came about a inch further out (metal laff and cement tile base). The tub as been refinished prior to tile removal so there’s an edge present. I was thinking of just building out the studs an extra inch but then I got to thinking about the shower valve may not extend through the additional wall thickness, that’s something I’ll have to double check. Other option was to cover the old tile edge line with a strip of tile directly on the tub, not sure if that’s possible with adhesion, then tile up the wall. Anyhow, any help and advice appreciated.
Mike
Replies
Firring out the studs should work fine. Doing so will not interfere with the shower valve, since it only increases the amount of space behind the wall, not the thickness of the backer board and tile.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
What kinda dumb arse am I for not figuring that one out? ;-)
Thanks,
Mike
Mike I think his concern was the shower valve trim plates and escussions (sp).Is this a new Valve that has just been installed? If so. Was it set to interface with your new tile thickness+ durock? if it is, it should not be too difficult to adjust.If you haven't replaced the valve. Then you would need to space out the studs to the old thickness so the valve doesn't stick out too much.Craig
Thanks,
Yes, new valve.
Mike
escutcheons...
I am no tile expert but your instinct to build out the studs is probably the easiest route. You could fur the studs out, or apply two layers of 1/2 cement backerboard to get your inch. It may require re plumbing the valve but usually they will move a bit.
Some one should be along to weigh in that has more experience with tile than me.
One small note, the metal 'laff' is actually called expanded metal lath, or just metal lath. ;^)
Hope this helps.
Webby
Thanks,
Yeah, I knew the spelling was wrong, just didn't know the wright way.
Mike
No problem.
RE. my first post, it would probably just be cheaper to fur out than apply to layers of cbu, which you would still need to fur out at the top of the tile where you normally trans. to drywall. Lighter too.Webby
That's what I'll do. But that's not going to work where the tub seat is(pic 2). Should I just build up the seat so it clears the tub lip, then extend the tile over to the line then caulk the 1/2" gap between tile and tub?
Mike
Edited 8/9/2009 5:30 pm ET by MBaybut
Yeah, I thought I saw what looked like a tub seat there. That is a bit of a sticky situation. Is the tub seat original? If not I would rethink it. Might be asking for trouble especially if this is a tub shower or just a tub? I am not liking the idea of water sitting on a tiled surface there. It would be better to transition to a solid material without grout joints. To tile it it seems to me that you would have to have to solve the following and the problem of sealing the over lap of cbu and tub, it would be a little better if the tub had a flange on it.
1) The seat would need adequate support for the cbu and tile . if it is really going to get use as a seat. 2) The seat needs to have slope on it, especially if there is a chance of water splashing or spray getting up there. 3) The cbu really needs to bear right on the tub for support, without give or you might have problems with tile.
One thing, you might build up the seat/cbu for the seat until you get to where you could use an edge tile like for a countertop? Like I said I am not a tile expert. Just my two cents.Webby
Thanks,
It is an original tub seat, it had tile on it and surprisingly enough, no sign of any water intrusion. I shouls have payed more attention to how it was tiled before I took it apart. I think it had edge tile that curled over at the edge. I'll look for similar tile.
Mike.
Yeah, it was probably a corner piece, and removing the mud job base dropped your thickness. If you can seal it as well, you probably will be all right.Webby
personally, if you are going to spend the time and money on that tile work, I'd replace the tub while you are at it. Refinished tubs don't last forever. The longest I have seen a warantee is 7 years, and most are only a year.
Some cleaning products will eat the finish. A new tub should last as long as a good tile job.
Good catch!!Upsell your clients on this.
Both you and they will be glad they did spend the xtra $$Craig
It's actually for one of my rentals. I love the tub, it's deep, solid and wide. I didn't want to go overboard with the expense, not sure what I will eventually do with the property so I didn't want to sink a lot of cash into it.
Thanks,
mike
Mike,
Carefully clean all the old schmootz from the tub rim,use a single edge razor, there IS a lip, fur studs out so final tile layout will just cover old tile/resurface line......at seat, install backer board flush with tub rim/lip, install bullnosed tile first, just covering old tile line....back butter tile with thinset....scrape out 1/4" under tile to allow for caulking after thinset has cured, support tile with spacers as needed,then install tile back to wall, use bullnose on outside edge as well and use outside corner piece if available, otherwise miter cut outside corner......
Suggest you use Densshield tile backer at least, on seat area, but recommend using on walls too, it's waterproof, so no vapor barrier needed behind it, as is needed with CBU's.
Geoff
Geoffrey,
Thanks so much for your advice. As you can see from the pic it looks like it'll take a bit of skill to get this to look right. Not sure how the top edge will transition into front edge. I think, having limited tiling skills, I'd be better off just over sizing the seat, making it easier to tile.
Mike
Mike,
you need to lower the CBU so that it is level with the lip of the tub,
BTW, that's a cap tile you have shown, not a bull nose tile.
If you lower the CBU then the cap tile should work quite nicely.
Geoff
Geoff,
Thanks, you can't tell from the pic but the CBU is level with the lip. It's the lip on the tub that's high. I furred out the studs on the wall but I'm still about 1/8" short. Can I make that up with the thin set?
Mike
Edited 8/12/2009 4:08 pm ET by MBaybut
I'd likely shim out or make it like a rainsccreen wall.
If the same valve body is in place, it willl be right depth for the shim out
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