Replies

1. 
   Dam_inspector | Feb 14, 2009 06:39pm | #1

   Bodybuilding.

2. 
   Mongo | Feb 14, 2009 07:03pm | #2

   Try mixing the grout more. Most people under-mix grout and thinset.

   There's that magical point where if you mix it sufficiently, grout flows like soft buddah. Not drippy, not droopy. But you hit that point and the plasticity of the product just goes through the roof.

1. 
   MBaybut | Feb 15, 2009 12:03am | #4

   Thanks,
   Can I use a drill mixer? I've been using a tub and hoe.
   Mike

1. 
   JeffBuck | Feb 15, 2009 12:24am | #5

   I'd mix by hand so the grout doesn't set up too fast.

   drill mixing can speed up the setting time.

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   MBaybut | Feb 15, 2009 01:51pm | #10

   I remember a mate of mine, a bricklayer, would put dish detergent in the mix to make it more workable or something. Can't quite recall exactly why he did this.
   Mike

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 15, 2009 08:50pm | #16

   It changes the viscosity without adding more water that can weaken a mix. Common to do when applying SR mud over old plaster too. helps control those pesky little air bubbles. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   catfish | Feb 16, 2009 09:38pm | #20

   Soap makes the water wetter.

2. 
   Mongo | Feb 15, 2009 06:45am | #9

   Yes, but you don't want to be running it on max speed. Pretty much follow the instructions on the bag.

3. 
   JeffinPA | Feb 14, 2009 09:06pm | #3

   Right mix and wrap the top of the bag closed around your fist and keep twisting with your top hand to tighten the bag as you squeeze with your other hand.  I helped a mason do it about 4 years ago when I was working in an office all day . (Saturday job)

   He made it look easy, partly due to how he worked the bag, partly brute strength.

   You will ache the next day bad if you try to grout for more than an hour or two.

4. 
   KFC | Feb 15, 2009 01:05am | #6

   Don't beat yourself up- it's one of those things that anyone can do, but it's a lot harder than it looks, especially on vertical surfaces.  It taxes a lot of hand strength. 

   I don't try to be perfect with the joints.  I mix smaller batches and gob it in there, and tool and semi-clean every so often, as it's setting up on the stone.  If you get good, you'll hardly need to tool it, just pack it in, and you won't need to clean so often, but that can take years of practice.

   If you have good flow and then it stops, squeeze and diddle the nipple a bit.  That helps get the flow going.

   k

5. 
   mikeroop | Feb 15, 2009 01:08am | #7

   mix it runny, cut that hole bigger and get rid of the meatal drop in

1. 
   MBaybut | Feb 19, 2009 11:12pm | #22

   Tried that today, worked like a charm. Even gives you the advantage of squeezing the tip to get into narrower spaces.
   Thanks again

6. 
   Piffin | Feb 15, 2009 01:34am | #8

   I didn't realize they made them with metal teats

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   mms | Feb 20, 2009 11:54pm | #31

   I haven't done this on a wall, but when putting grout down on a tile floor, I saved some money and a trip to the HW store by using a zip-lock plastic bag  (1 gallon size)for a grout bag.  Mix the grout, scoop some into the bag, zip it closed, cut off a corner & squeeze.  If the grout comes out too slow, cut the corner a little bigger. 

   Re-use for a while, then get a new bag.

7. 
   seeyou | Feb 15, 2009 02:28pm | #11

   Is there any tips anybody can offer me that will make the process easier?

   Fill the end of the grout bag with mortar - just a clump about the size of your fist. Go outside and swing the bag as hard as you can. Let it go and hopefully it will clear a fence or something where you can't see it anymore. Then get a hawk (a block trowel will do) and a couple of different sizes of caulking trowels. Mix your mortar a little drier. You'll be proficient with them in no time.

   http://www.quittintime.com/      View Image        

8. 
   ponytl | Feb 15, 2009 03:32pm | #12

   dish soap works... we tuck pointed  20,000 sf use'n grout bags

   lube helps everything

   p

1. 
   MBaybut | Feb 15, 2009 05:01pm | #13

   Any tips on getting the dry mortar off the stones?
   Mike

1. 
   mikeroop | Feb 15, 2009 05:07pm | #14

    

   Any tips on getting the dry mortar off the stones?Mike

    

    

    

   yea you don't letg it dry on the stone :) work in smaller areas, go back to where you started to check and see how much it's drying and if need be do all the striking and cleaning as you go

1. 
   MBaybut | Feb 15, 2009 07:57pm | #15

   the horse has bolted. If it has dried, what's the best way?
   Mike

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 15, 2009 08:54pm | #17

   10% muriatic acid, but not inside around any finishes like oak wood. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Henley | Feb 15, 2009 11:15pm | #18

   Depending on the stone, a wire brushing the next day will take it off.
   But watch for scaring the stone face. Just use a tuck pointer and work with dryer mud. Stronger joint and
   less smearing on the face.

3. 
   mikeroop | Feb 16, 2009 04:52pm | #19

   if it's not real stone becareful with acid or a wire brush because the color is usually only on the surface if there are large enough pieces try a masons hammer and gently tap them and sometimes it will pop right off. but if it smears you are dealing with the acid or wire brush are pretty much it.

    I emailed you.

   Edited 2/19/2009 4:11 pm ET by mikeroop

2. 
   MBaybut | Feb 19, 2009 11:15pm | #23

   I didn't realize you gave me this info also. Can you clarify on how to clean off the mortar before it sets, damp sponge? tried the brush but I kept getting it in the joint.
   Thanks,
   Mike

1. 
   mikeroop | Feb 20, 2009 12:07am | #24

   couple of things on getting the grout off the stone or brick . first try not to let too much get on it , your mix should just be runny enough to come out of the bag good but not fall out onto the stone but if it does let it harden alittle  and it should break off pretty clean. alot of times after the grout has hardend a bit we will take a brush over the stone and  the joint and this looks pretty well.

2. 
   Henley | Feb 20, 2009 03:22am | #27

   Don't clean it off while it's wet, you'll only smear it.
   Let it set up and strike the joint as normal. Then first thing
   the NEXT day wire brush it and rinse it off. That will get it 95% of the way there. The rest will fade. To do it properly, you'd forget the grout bag and use stiff mud
   that wouldn't make a mess to begin with. But short of that this method
   works well.

3. 
   KFC | Feb 20, 2009 05:42am | #28

   Actually that's pretty good advice, with the caveat that if a hot dry breeze kicks up overnight, you're scrod.  Gotta watch the weather, esp wind and humidity.

   I think he was in Fla. though, so overnight would be ok 99% of the time.

   k

4. 
   Henley | Feb 20, 2009 03:25pm | #29

   Interesting point. I've never run into that myself.
   I'm in NY so it's rare to have a hot wind at all let alone at night!LOL

5. 
   KFC | Feb 20, 2009 06:12pm | #30

   Pretty rare in Fla, too I bet.

   It happened to me this past year.  Ugh.  Overnight had been just right 2 nights, but on the last night a crazy hot eastern wind kicked up (I heard it at 2 am and knew I was scrod) and I had to break out the muriatic the next day.  not fun.

   k

6. 
   Henley | Feb 21, 2009 02:33am | #32

   You probably get skip to the frozen concrete game thou.

3. 
   Brickie | Feb 20, 2009 01:48am | #25

   It depends greatly whether you're talking "cured" or simply set.  (hours versus days.)

   If you spooged it onto the face less than a day ago, you can probably flick it off with the butt end of a carpenters pencil or such, then go after it with a stiff brush.  If you let it sit on there for a few days, then you may need to replace that piece.

   Generally, you can't spot wash the stuff with acid.

1. 
   mikeroop | Feb 20, 2009 02:41am | #26

   yea i know, but this is something he just started

9. 
   ReedB | Feb 17, 2009 12:21am | #21

   One thing to remember when mixing thinsets and grouts-or at least one of the many things- is to do your mixing and then let it sit for about five minutes.  This gives the drier particles in the mix to absorb their water; when you come back to it, it will be drier-but not from setting up- and then mix in a bit more water to the consistency you like.  It will stay at that consistency longer.  And the trick with twisting the top of the bag is the only way to go.

10. 
    mikeroop | Mar 03, 2009 06:00am | #33

    how's it going mike?

1. 
   MBaybut | Mar 03, 2009 06:54am | #34

   Hi,
   Had a couple of days off but last time I was at it, it looks like I have to buy a new bag. Seems the bag is oozing the moisture when trying to squeeze it so it probably as a few tiny holes in it. Got very tough to get the grout to come out. I have a few more stones to attach then I'll finish the grout. I'll let you know and post a couple of pics.
   Thanks for checking up,
   Mike