Hi,
Yes, how lame can I be? Just started to grout my stone veneer wall but this is all new to me so I’m struggling and learning. I bought a grout bag that came with a drop in metal nozzle. It was only 3/8″ at the tip and I couldn’t get a thing through it, even when using a thinner mix. I widened the tip 1/2″ which is better. Is there any tips anybody can offer me that will make the process easier?
Thanks,
Mike
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Bodybuilding.
Try mixing the grout more. Most people under-mix grout and thinset.
There's that magical point where if you mix it sufficiently, grout flows like soft buddah. Not drippy, not droopy. But you hit that point and the plasticity of the product just goes through the roof.
Thanks,
Can I use a drill mixer? I've been using a tub and hoe.
Mike
I'd mix by hand so the grout doesn't set up too fast.
drill mixing can speed up the setting time.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I remember a mate of mine, a bricklayer, would put dish detergent in the mix to make it more workable or something. Can't quite recall exactly why he did this.
Mike
It changes the viscosity without adding more water that can weaken a mix. Common to do when applying SR mud over old plaster too. helps control those pesky little air bubbles.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Soap makes the water wetter.
Yes, but you don't want to be running it on max speed. Pretty much follow the instructions on the bag.
Right mix and wrap the top of the bag closed around your fist and keep twisting with your top hand to tighten the bag as you squeeze with your other hand. I helped a mason do it about 4 years ago when I was working in an office all day . (Saturday job)
He made it look easy, partly due to how he worked the bag, partly brute strength.
You will ache the next day bad if you try to grout for more than an hour or two.
Don't beat yourself up- it's one of those things that anyone can do, but it's a lot harder than it looks, especially on vertical surfaces. It taxes a lot of hand strength.
I don't try to be perfect with the joints. I mix smaller batches and gob it in there, and tool and semi-clean every so often, as it's setting up on the stone. If you get good, you'll hardly need to tool it, just pack it in, and you won't need to clean so often, but that can take years of practice.
If you have good flow and then it stops, squeeze and diddle the nipple a bit. That helps get the flow going.
k
mix it runny, cut that hole bigger and get rid of the meatal drop in
Tried that today, worked like a charm. Even gives you the advantage of squeezing the tip to get into narrower spaces.
Thanks again
I didn't realize they made them with metal teats
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I haven't done this on a wall, but when putting grout down on a tile floor, I saved some money and a trip to the HW store by using a zip-lock plastic bag (1 gallon size)for a grout bag. Mix the grout, scoop some into the bag, zip it closed, cut off a corner & squeeze. If the grout comes out too slow, cut the corner a little bigger.
Re-use for a while, then get a new bag.
Is there any tips anybody can offer me that will make the process easier?
Fill the end of the grout bag with mortar - just a clump about the size of your fist. Go outside and swing the bag as hard as you can. Let it go and hopefully it will clear a fence or something where you can't see it anymore. Then get a hawk (a block trowel will do) and a couple of different sizes of caulking trowels. Mix your mortar a little drier. You'll be proficient with them in no time.
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dish soap works... we tuck pointed 20,000 sf use'n grout bags
lube helps everything
p
Any tips on getting the dry mortar off the stones?
Mike
Any tips on getting the dry mortar off the stones?Mike
yea you don't letg it dry on the stone :) work in smaller areas, go back to where you started to check and see how much it's drying and if need be do all the striking and cleaning as you go
the horse has bolted. If it has dried, what's the best way?
Mike
10% muriatic acid, but not inside around any finishes like oak wood.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Depending on the stone, a wire brushing the next day will take it off.
But watch for scaring the stone face. Just use a tuck pointer and work with dryer mud. Stronger joint and
less smearing on the face.
if it's not real stone becareful with acid or a wire brush because the color is usually only on the surface if there are large enough pieces try a masons hammer and gently tap them and sometimes it will pop right off. but if it smears you are dealing with the acid or wire brush are pretty much it.
I emailed you.
Edited 2/19/2009 4:11 pm ET by mikeroop
I didn't realize you gave me this info also. Can you clarify on how to clean off the mortar before it sets, damp sponge? tried the brush but I kept getting it in the joint.
Thanks,
Mike
couple of things on getting the grout off the stone or brick . first try not to let too much get on it , your mix should just be runny enough to come out of the bag good but not fall out onto the stone but if it does let it harden alittle and it should break off pretty clean. alot of times after the grout has hardend a bit we will take a brush over the stone and the joint and this looks pretty well.
Don't clean it off while it's wet, you'll only smear it.
Let it set up and strike the joint as normal. Then first thing
the NEXT day wire brush it and rinse it off. That will get it 95% of the way there. The rest will fade. To do it properly, you'd forget the grout bag and use stiff mud
that wouldn't make a mess to begin with. But short of that this method
works well.
Actually that's pretty good advice, with the caveat that if a hot dry breeze kicks up overnight, you're scrod. Gotta watch the weather, esp wind and humidity.
I think he was in Fla. though, so overnight would be ok 99% of the time.
k
Interesting point. I've never run into that myself.
I'm in NY so it's rare to have a hot wind at all let alone at night!LOL
Pretty rare in Fla, too I bet.
It happened to me this past year. Ugh. Overnight had been just right 2 nights, but on the last night a crazy hot eastern wind kicked up (I heard it at 2 am and knew I was scrod) and I had to break out the muriatic the next day. not fun.
k
You probably get skip to the frozen concrete game thou.
It depends greatly whether you're talking "cured" or simply set. (hours versus days.)
If you spooged it onto the face less than a day ago, you can probably flick it off with the butt end of a carpenters pencil or such, then go after it with a stiff brush. If you let it sit on there for a few days, then you may need to replace that piece.
Generally, you can't spot wash the stuff with acid.
yea i know, but this is something he just started
One thing to remember when mixing thinsets and grouts-or at least one of the many things- is to do your mixing and then let it sit for about five minutes. This gives the drier particles in the mix to absorb their water; when you come back to it, it will be drier-but not from setting up- and then mix in a bit more water to the consistency you like. It will stay at that consistency longer. And the trick with twisting the top of the bag is the only way to go.
how's it going mike?
Hi,
Had a couple of days off but last time I was at it, it looks like I have to buy a new bag. Seems the bag is oozing the moisture when trying to squeeze it so it probably as a few tiny holes in it. Got very tough to get the grout to come out. I have a few more stones to attach then I'll finish the grout. I'll let you know and post a couple of pics.
Thanks for checking up,
Mike