Hi,
I work in a barber shop that as 4 sinks and a washer dryer. If more than one sink is being used at the same time the hot water turns to a trickle. I had a look at the water heater which looks plenty big enough but I noticed it has 3/4 copper going and 1/2″ coming out. Would I get more hot water pressure if the 1/2″ was changed to 3/4″ Any advice welcome.
Mike
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Yep, assuming that the rest of the pipe is 3/4".
Of course, look for the obvious, such as a valve not all the way open.
Will a bigger wire give you more volts?
Pressure is like volts.
Flow is like amps.
A bigger pipe will not give you more pressure, but will give you more flow.
You have a restriction in there somewhere.
What is the 1/2" connected to after it leaves the water heater?
What kind of connections do you have at the water heater--- flex connectors, hard pipe etc.....
Thanks,
The 1/2' goes into a "T" then up through the ceiling space the over to 2 sinks and the washer dryer the other end of the "T" goes along the outside wall then into the other 2 sinks.
Hard pipe connected to the water heater.
Mike
What size is the tee?
Is it 1/2" with 1/2" going in each direction?
Is it all copper?
What are the valve/s on the water heater---- ball or gate?
If the lines at the tee are 1/2" I would replace the tee with a 3/4" & then reduce to the 1/2" for each run.
If it is a gate valve is it fully open?
Another step would be to drain & flush the water heater.
There is 2 threads.
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=126799.1
Thought I was losing it.
Thanks for finding the other thread. I thought I was losing it too when I noticed my post wasn't included.What do you think about the possibility of a mix of galvanized and copper causing the problem without a dilectric union?Karl
What do you think about the possibility of a mix of galvanized and copper causing the problem without a dilectric union?
That's a likely cause, but I didn't see wher the poster said he had any galvanized on the system. I wonder if he has die electric unions on the water heater itself.
Thanks,
1/2" T. Ball valve on inlet only.
Mike
OK with the information provided I would replace the tee, like I said earlier & do a tank drain & flush.
Thanks plumbill. Just for educational purposes can you explain how you come to this conclusion.
Thanks again for taking the time,
Mike.
The conclusion I came to by the information provided was to increase the diameter of the pipe to the point that the branches are connected.
1/2" pipe @ 100' long in the 40 to 60 psi range will only provide water for 5 fixture units while 3/4" with the same distance & pressure will handle 19 fixture units.
'I'm not guaranteeing this will fix the problem, but it is likely to be a problem.
The other is to drain & flush the tank as sediment may have creeped up to the opening & caused a restriction.
2 threads with the exact same posting time?
Must be that "new & improved" BT software.
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=126800.1
EDIT------ must just be on my end------ now there's only one thread
Edited 11/20/2009 9:49 pm ET by plumbbill
I've seen cases where there's a galvanized nipple on the top of the water heater that connects the tank to the flex connector, and where this gal. nipple will be almost closed off with corrosion.
I you have this combination of gal. nipple and flex connector, check to be sure the nipple is completely open. (Along with other useful suggestions you're getting.)
Pressure of hot water coming out depends on pressure of cold water going in. Open the flush valve and see how much water comes out, compared to cold water pressure from your sink. If pressure seems to be low, you may want to replace cold water shut off valve as well. Your situation sounds like you have low water pressure and possible restriction somewhere and only way to fix it would be to check all paths one by one. Good luck.
Update,
Turns out it was a faulty non return valve in the hot side nipple on the tank. Everything's running super now.
Thanks all,
Mike