Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 11, 2000 02:35am | #1

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   Hi Matt,

   I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" theory.

   I don't know the location and weather ice daming is a problem in this case.

   There are inexpensive ways to circulate the air if it's a concern. You can insert cardboard tubings from carpet rolls between the open area of the attic right through to the eaves, if you wish. Or you can buy styrofoam baffles that can keep the insulation from blocking off the movement of air.

   just a few ideas

   Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 11, 2000 04:34am | #2

   *Matt,I mostly agree with Gabe here, especially if it is an old house. I have done some of these rooms with no problem on old houses in Wisconsin (cold winters, humid summers) with good results.If you want to superinsulate the room and have enough headroom, you can sister 2x6's onto the rafters, get another 3 1/2-4 inches of insulation and still have some space above it for air circulation. It doesn't add a lot for labor or material, considering the benefit.Obviously, if the interior is done already this won't help, but I didn't know...But my feeling is adding sleepers onto the skip sheathing would be less cost effective, you'd have to deal with a new fascia situation, and it won't help much anyway if there are no soffit vents to start with.If the roof is noticeably uneven from the ground, however, this could be money well spent--you could get a straight roof and some ventilation with one effort. I'd set string lines going across, and eyeball them as they go up the roof to keep the elevation on the same plane.MD

2. 
   matt_dillon | Jul 11, 2000 06:51am | #3

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   gabe, thanks for your reply. you may be right about "if it ain't broke...". being the cautious type, I know the home owner just bought the house, and I would hate to have any problems occur after my work. your idea is a good one. I just happen to talk to a friend today who had a similar idea with PVC pipe. Thanks for your info. matt

1. 
   matt_dillon | Jul 11, 2000 07:01am | #4

   *mad dog, thanks for your input. you (and gabe) are probably right. there is no real problem with the existing roof, besides it being old. I suppose I've become habituated to worrying about venting. these remodels make me want to find the rules behind why the old school stuff works, over time, even though it flies in the face of the new popular wisdom. thanks again, matt

3. 
   matt_dillon | Jul 11, 2000 07:01am | #5

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   I am working on a dormer addition which would include re roofing the rest of the house. the dormer addition is perpendicular to the main gable, and the existing space has ceilings that slope from the collar ties to a knee wall at 4' off the floor. the existing rafters are 2x6 and I would like to maximize the insulation. however in order to ensure proper vent space, the insulation should be held down from the skip sheathing. So my question is, is it advisable to vent the entire roof with sleepers between the skip sheathing and the 7/16 osb. or should I just insert some spacing unit or chase at each stud bay inside to ensure the insulation does not get pushed up and stop the venting. I would guess that with skip-sheathing and sleepers under the osb, that venting could theoretically occur even in the joist bays that do not reach the ave, such as a valley. I would have to sell the home owner on the added cost and effort. he will no-doubt want to know why bother venting if it wasn't been vented in the past. does anyone see any problems or additional solutions?