I have stained twice, but there is no finish on the floor yet. I am using Varathane oil-based stain in the “Gunstock” color. I wanted the floors to be very dark, and so after the first stain, I left quite a bit of stain on the floor (I wiped with rags saturated with stain–not clean rags). 24 hours after the first stain, there were blotchy and streaky areas. I tried to wipe the floor with clean rags soaked in mineral spirits to little effect (blotches and streaks remained), so I stained again. But now it’s just darker with the blotches and streaks still there. It is possible that I sanded a little too much in some areas burnishing the wood making it less accepting of the stain, but I didn’t do that everywhere the stain is flawed, so I’m not sure that’s the problem. It’s possible I left too much stain on the floor after the first run, but why didn’t the mineral spirits on the clean rag work? I’m pretty much at a loss, and the appearance is unacceptable. What to do? Should I rent a square buffer and re-sand with 80 grit, or should I screen it with the square buff and stain again? Will either of those things improve the appearance, or just make it worse? Thank you for all suggestions.
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You may want to ask your question at Knots too (woodworkers forum by Taunton), but I would say yes, sand the floor again (but I wouldn't go as course as 80--maybe 120) and vacuum it and then get trans-tint dye from a woodworkers catalog and dye the floor the color you want (or some varaition thereof). The dye will penetrate where stain will not (stain is pigment and dye is, well, dye). Then maybe even use either a wood conditioner or gel stain to prevent blotching (usually more of a problem with pine, which wants to absorb stain unevenly).
The other thing if you like dark would be to disolve rusty steel wool in vinegar and wipe that on. This works especially well with woods like oak that are high in tannin. I still think you'll need to sand first to open the wood to receive the dye or stain.
yes you will have to remove that finish.
However I suggest that in the future you stain first and then do a finish.. do not attempt to combine them..
I have combined them and it requires great skill and the right equipment to pull it off..
If you want the finish easily reversable you can put a wash coat of shellac (1# cut) on before you stain.. That will help give a nice uniform finish.
Shellac will dry almost as quickly as you put it on. So 15 minutes after you shellac you can be appling the stain..
Afterward you can apply three coats of thin (1# cut) shellac and see if that gives you the deep rich finish you like .. If you prefer the plastic look go ahead and use varathane. However you will have to accept that it's not as durable and requires sandinbg to do repairs (unlike shellac)
If you'd like details on how to do a fool proof finish I'll gladly walk you through the steps..
Well since you wanted it dark you're not that bad off. Get yourself a 5gal pal of lacquer thinner to remove most of the stain. Paint thinner or mineral spirits isn't the best choice to remover a "dried" solvent based stain.
Once you remove the surface stain you will in effect have "toned" the floor. Reapply the stain and this time, work in manageable areas letting the stain sit for about 5 mins and then wiping it off with clean rags.
When you start a new section pay attention to the line between them and be sure to feather them together. Take your time and if it's not dark enough when your done, do it again.
Good Luck.
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