Got a 4″ brass plug frozen into cast iron.
Already tried a bigger hammer.
Been told to be very careful of applying heat.
Afraid of using a torch, ‘cuz the studs are touching the pipe.
Any suggestions?
SamT
Got a 4″ brass plug frozen into cast iron.
Already tried a bigger hammer.
Been told to be very careful of applying heat.
Afraid of using a torch, ‘cuz the studs are touching the pipe.
Any suggestions?
SamT
Learn about the pros and cons of waterproofing vs. damp-proofing foundation walls.
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Replies
You want the CI to expand a little with heat. You do not have to put the flame near a stud. Put heat near the cleanout plug threads, let the CI get hot.The CI will get hot all around the plug even if the heat is only placed in one spot.
Remove the torch and try turning the plug out.If you are afraid of using a torch, this may work.Apply heat with a heatgun instead of a torch.Use wd 40 on the plug a few hours or a day before removing the plug.I have not used a heat gun for this purpose but it may work.
mike
A plumbers trick is to get a spray bottle, ones that come from cleaning compounds work well but rinse many times before changing use, and fill it with water and just a few drops of dishwashing detergent.
Spray this liberally around where your using the heat. Spray the wood and any interior wall areas that may be exposed to the heat. Wood that is really close can be sprayed several times so the wood soaks up the water.
Refill the bottle before using the torch so you have a full bottle handy if you need it. Keep a real, rated, fire extinguisher nearby in case it grows bigger than the spray bottle can handle.
A simple spray bottle with soapy water is a fine tool for jobsite work. Dousing the sparks and flames, class A fires only, when they are tiny and damping down potential problems to prevent fires is smart. The simple water solution is far easier to clean up than the mess you get with a dry chemical unit.
Of course a spray bottle is not a real fire extinguisher. Have a real, and preferably large one, handy on every job site. And when in doubt call in the FD. Sooner than later is better.
SamT,
Chisel out, replace with plastic.
KK
Got the spray bottle, WD-40, torch, ABC extinguisger, and a new plastic plug all ready.
Gonna get some dry ice and modelers clay tomorrow.
Got a drill too.
Wonder if Judith has a hair dryer.
This plug is tight!
Tried the old 18"er and a 24lb maul. Hah! Nothing!
I will overcome.
But, keep the ideas coming, all are appreciated.
SamT
You should be able to weaken it by drilling a number of hole near the outside edge, but just in side the CI ID.Then put a chisle near the rim and hit it and colapse it.
I'm with Bill on this one.
Drill a series of closely spaced holes around the perimeter (brass is soft and drills very easily) with a 3/16" bit and then smack the center with a hammer. The center will pop out and then use a punch to collapse the remaining threaded portion toward the center.
Replace with new brass or plastic plug.
1/4" or even 5/16" bit will work fine, too.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 7/26/2005 1:35 am ET by GOLDHILLER
tighten first.. use shock...
unscrew it using a bigger lever...
if ya haveta drill use a hole saw...
put the plug under tension with yur wrench before ya smack the wrench with yur BFH....
Edited 7/26/2005 2:30 am ET by IMERC
Thanks, everybody,
The consensus is destructive removal. So be it.
SamT
Hard to believe brass will not budge given enough torque. That is the good thing about brass. Have you snapped the head off yet? If not, more torque!
Or- Use an angle grinder. Tic-tac-toe cuts around the head, and it will give easily.