Ok, I realize this isn’t fine woodworking and I am usually more into small boxes than houses, but here is my problem. I had new gutters installed about 5-6 years ago. They are aluminum (sp) “single piece” gutters. These are the kind where the only seam is at the corners where they cut them to fold for the corners. I had these installed because I figured there was less chance of leaking. When they were first installed the contractor didn’t seal the corners and every corner leaked. I had them come out and seal all the corners and thought the problem was solved. I am now thinking I have a much larger problem. Of course they had a lifetime warranty, but the company is now gone so the lifetime was the lifetime of the company not mine or the gutters.
Last year we had some heavy rains and an entire section of the front gutter pulled away from the house. I am just getting around to fixing it, and on looking closer I see additional problems. All the gutters seem to have moved away from the backing board, by anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 of an inch. As I look at the corners again, I find that they have been leaking in a non obvious way, and all the corner sealing is cracked and leaking, and now all the paint is starting to peel and blister at the corners. Before I had the new gutters installed I went around and checked all the backing boards to insure they were solid and repainted them.
Not having installed gutters before I never paid any attention to how they were installed, and now that I am having problems and looking closer I am questioning some things. Since I am sure they there are people on this forum that have a LOT more experience than I do I thought I would ask. The nails that are holding the gutters up are about 3 ft apart, while that looks good it seems a little far now that I am looking at it differently. The front of my house which includes an attached garage is about 80 feet long and has one gutter about 15 ft – 20 ft from one end in front of my porch. That now seems a long way to go without a gutter, even though it didn’t seem to be a problem for the original gutters. Just about where I would think there should be another gutter (20-30 ft away) is where it pulled away from the house.
Ok now I have a series of questions. Help!!
1. Where I have looked the wood still seems solid, but in some places has begun to warp, and of course the paint is peeling. What is the best way to deal with this without removing the gutters.
2. What is the correct sealant to seal the corners? When I go to the big block stores, I can’t find a sealant that says it is for sealing gutters or is rated for under water. Silicone seems to be the best choice.
3. Am I just ahead to tear out the new gutters and replace any damaged backing and get someone in to replace the gutters? A very expensive option.
4. Are there any other options?
5. If my only option is to replace the gutters, how do I go about finding a reliable contractor. Last time I checked Better Business Bureau, and asked for references and quotes, but I obviously missed something.
I am sorry this is so long but I have always figured why use 2 words when 6 will do just as well. Any help or comments are appreciated.
Thanks.
Silversmith <!—-><!—-><!—->
Wood Butcher Extraordinarie <!—-><!—->
Replies
silver.. when we install gutters we always use 2' spacing for our hangers..
we use either a fascia hanger SCREWED to the fascia.. or we use a roof hanger screwed to the roof sheathing
here's a 5" gutter with the fascia hangers ( and SS. screws )
View Image
yours sound like the typical nail and tube installation done by gutter guys trying to make a buck
nail and tube almost always fails..
the only kind of sealant that works for gutters is gutter seal.. you can buy it in a lot of places.. usually in the big box next to where they sell the aluminum gutter and parts
if you want a good gutter guy.. call a company that only MAKES gutter.. and ask them for a referral..
we do our own because we have a lot of trouble with gutter installers who don't give a damn..
and here's a 6" gutter we installed in March
Edited 9/25/2005 6:20 pm ET by MikeSmith
Edited 9/25/2005 6:21 pm ET by MikeSmith
Edited 9/25/2005 6:21 pm ET by MikeSmith
Mike, Thanks for the input. I didn't realize that there was anything other than spike and ferral, or straps. I really appreciate the picture, do the screw hangers your using have a particular name? My gutters appear to be about 1/2 that size, so I am assuming that it is a 3" or 4" gutter, are the screw hangers adjustable or do they come in different sizes? I am seriously thinking about getting someone to help and trying to take down the old gutters redoing the facia and replacing the gutters with proper hangers.
fascia hangers
the top edge of the fascia hanger slips under the drip edge..
you have local companies that mfr. gutters on site right off the truck... those trucks carry all of the accessories you need... hangers.. gutter seal, miters, elbows ( A & B ),
downspouts... BTW.. here's the adjustable hanger we use on our downspouts... one piece rivets to the back of the pipe.. the other screws to the building.. much neater than the old nail-on straps..
View Image
also... we can get custom made "tops" if we give them the offset dimensions the day before.. i think this one is a 12" offset
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 9/26/2005 11:26 pm ET by MikeSmith
Mike gave some good answers. You definately want to stay away from the "spike & ferrule" method of gutter hanging. Use a good combination hanger that screws to the fascia board.
Also, in PA, gutter hangers must be spaced no farther apart than 2ft on center. Here in WV, I tend to space my hangers 30 inches OC... but never any farther than that. In heavy snow country, 24 inches is better to handle weight of snow loads.
If the gutters are pulling away from the house, using combo hangers with screws will do thre trick. Gutter seal comes in both regular, caulking type cartridge tubes, and/or in small, toothpaste like tubes. Some people use plain ole silicone on their joints, but silicone will fail...gutter seal is what should be used. All stores carry it...just ask at the counter for assistance.
To find a reputable gutter installer, contact your local lumber company...not Lowes or HD...but a regular ole lumber store that's been in business for years in your locale...they can give you references. Also, contact your local city or county building inspection department and again ask for references...they know who does it right.
As for your fascia boards...if they are going bad, you will need to pull the gutter in order to fix them...plain and simple. Painting is always good protection, but having your fascia boards covered with aluminum coil stock is a better alternative.
Sounds to me like you need a re-do....someone who knows what they are doing. Before actually hiring someone, get references from the last several jobs they did and contact these people to see if the job was done right.
Good luck.
Davo
Thanks for the input Davo. Looks like I need to find some gutter seal.
Ok, my 2cents here.
Copper. It lasts forvever. It is soldered NOT Glued. Avaialble in many or ANY shape and size.
Stay far away from spike and ferrrules ( even when the spikes are screws and the hit a rafter tail).
A local copper roofer should be able to squre you away, again, for a true lifetime.
Cost more at first, but the last time you have to deal with it.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Sphere, I would love copper, wouldn't go with the house unless it started out with some kind of patina, and the cost... I would just guess but its got to be at least twice as expensive as aluminum, plus installation cost is probably more. Got any idea what it might cost for about 200' of gutter, with about 7 inside corners and about 8 outside corners, and about 4-5 downspouts? I'm not looking for a quote but a ballpark, just to see if I'm in it.
I can't be quoteing for your local.
I will say that it is a once and done deal...
I'd expect that my contractor ( Cu or seeyou) here can be of more help..expect 10.00$ a running foot..including drops for an average 2 story house.
He makes it, I hang it..I don't bill the enduser.
We do all types, from box gutters to 1/2 round, and K style in 5" and 6"..and he just made some killer 6" quarter round..
don't be skeered of the initial cost...copper is final Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I am assuming that you did the painting. Facia is normally redwood, cedar or something manmade. Peeling from one of these surfaces in rooted in the prep before painting however...... In the posted photo by another responder is a nice gutter and roof but its hard to make out any drip edge. Drip edge is available in a number of "leg" lengths and should be under the roofing and over the inside edge of the gutter. Water hitting the roof can track under the portion overhanging the gutter and then hit the facia. From there it is probably trapped behind the gutter as it trys to follow Newton law of gravity and go straight down. Drip edge redirects droplets into the gutter. Because gutters are installed with a "pitch" or angle to them to direct water to downspouts the drip edge leg that is verticle needs to be about 2" so that it still redirects water at the low portion of the gutter. I agree spike and ferrule is a loser. BTW without proper drip edge inspecters will not pass a job here. Try
Tyr,
Thanks for the tip but overhang is not my problem, my overhang is about 2 inches, and except where the gutter has pulled completely away from the facia it is protecting the facia, it is only peeling in the corners where it has leaked or where the water is running down the board. interesting about the facia material though. I suspect that my facia is probably doug fir because there is a lot of it here in Oregon, at least what the pieces I have replaced looked like.