I’m planning to build a deck (my first one) and have been looking at the DeckBlock (pre-cast concrete footings) system. My first impression was “cool, no digging!” My second impression was “Great, it’s cheaper!”. Has anybody used these, if so what kind of long term success or failure have you had?
One concern is the soil requirements… The manufacturer states that if you can walk across the soil without leaving a 1/2″ deep footprint, the blocks are useable. Most of the time you can do that in my yard. But, after a heavy rain, you can sink in an inch or so. I live in south Texas and when it rains, it really rains.
So, long story short, should I try the DeckBlocks or stick to my original plan of renting an auger and pouring concrete footings?
EDIT: I should clarify that the deck will be an “island deck” and will not be attached to the home. The top of the finished deck will be 10″ – 12″ above grade and will be 10’x24′. I’ll be building the deck from PT pine 2×6 substucture and decking.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
Rick
If you can read it in English, thank a soldier.
Edited 1/24/2005 1:52 am ET by Big Rick
Edited 1/24/2005 1:53 am ET by Big Rick
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bump
We were the winners, cause we didnt know we could fail....
Waylon...
A lot of builders use them around here in East Texas without a problem. One GC I worked for swore by them, but he was one to cut corners at times. Both times I did decks for him we put 16"x16" blocks under them for added support. It is cheap and easy but I recomend poured footings especially in high wind areas.
If it makes any difference the GC I worked for is no longer in bussiness.
"It is cheap and easy but I recomend poured footings especially in high wind areas."
And lots of hurricane ties...
Where in south Texas?
Unless your yard is perfectly flat and even, you will probably need to dig some to get the joists level. Your frost line isn't very deep ... dig a hole 12-18" deep and fill with sakrete in sonotubes ... you'll like the end product much better than the blocks.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
I'm NW of Houston (between Houston & College Station).
We don't really get gale force winds except maybe if the mother of all hurricanes (Cat 5) hit Galveston and somehow managed to remain pretty strong 70+ miles from the coast. I suppose a freak occurance could happen.
Digging down 12 - 18 inches would definitely require an auger. I have about 1" -2" of topsoil (which came attached to the sod), 4" - 8" of grade sand, then it's solid rock hard clay for another 3'. I broke two pick-axes in the process of planting 4 trees in that clay.
I like gravel / crushed limestone idea. I could certainly go down 6" and that would alleviate my fears of the blocks sitting on spongy ground after a good rain.
Thanks to everybody for their input. This project actually got delayed because SHMBO & I are expecting in June and she decided that I needed to do wainscotting/chair rail, crown molding, & paint in the nursery. Then it was time to start building nursery furniture. Now that all of that is done, I might have time to get the deck done before summer (if not, it waits until fall).
Rick
If you can read this, thank a teacher...
If you are reading it in English, thank a soldier.
Dek blocks will work fine - drop them on a 6" bed of compacted 3/4"minus gravel.
If you don't want to see them, dig holes, drop in the gravel, compact it, drop in the Dek Blocks, stringline for your beams, cut your posts to fit - you're good to go. Varying post heights make up for Dek blocks not being level with each other. The only thing I'm not sure of regarding your location is amount of wind. If you get gale force winds, they could lift your whole deck out of the Dek blocks because there's no tie down from post to concrete block. The posts just sit down in the Dek block.
Pick up some end cut treatment when you pick up your wood and every time you cut the PT, paint some treatment on the cut ends. Let 'em dry for 10-15 min. if you've got the time. Your substructure will last much longer.
Something else to look at is Vycor flashing for your joists. find out more at http://www.na.graceconstruction.com - Follow the links for Deck Flashing.
BE SURE that any metal Simpson hardware you use on the PT is ZMAX. ZMAX is designed to withstand (better) the corrosive nature of the treatment on PT wood. Also, get double dipped galvanized nails for the metal hardware and make sure the deck screws you get are treated as well. Home Depot has a 25 lb. box of DeckMate screws for around $60 - at least here in Oregon.
Good luck!
Yep, wind is a concern. A strong wind could pick the entire deck up and throw it into the house, and the larger the deck the more likely this is and the more damage it will do. It might be wise to install a few mobile home anchors (under the deck) and cable the deck to them somehow.
Otherwise, knowing a little of the soil there, I think the Dek blocks should work fine. Do dig out a little and place crushed limestone (or what passes for it there) under them, however.