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Hep with fridge water input

Sardog | Posted in General Discussion on April 27, 2007 02:04am

Hi all

I have a problem.

I put in a new fridge today.

The water hook-up (typical 1/4″ compression fitting) leaked.

Nothing worked.

I cut off the pipe a few inches and installed a new ring and nut.

Still leaked, tightened some more, still leaks.

I tried sneaking up slowly on the tightening, but always leaks.

Is there any better fitting, or sealer or something?

(Maybe something like a flair fitting to compression fitting or something)

I have always had this problem on fridge installs and a new fitting and sneaking up on it works.

I think it’s time for some help from the pro’s here.

 

Jeff

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Replies

  1. 5brown1 | Apr 27, 2007 02:17am | #1

    Just a suggestion, use copper if you are not already. I learned the hard way that plastic can leak.

    1. Sardog | Apr 27, 2007 04:13am | #2

      1/4" copper pipe.

      Originally installed 15 years ago by me.

      Also, a big 8ft loop of pipe to ease bending when pushing in fridge.

      Jeff

  2. User avater
    coonass | Apr 27, 2007 04:28am | #3

    Jeff,

    I've been using the GE stainless steel braided line. Very easy. Use a similar one for dishwashers.

    http://www.filtersfast.com/stainless-ice-maker-fridge-water-line-filter.asp

    KK

    1. Sardog | Apr 27, 2007 06:00am | #8

      kk

      How does this attach to the fitting?

      Jeff

      1. User avater
        coonass | Apr 28, 2007 12:38am | #19

        Jeff,The SS line has 1/4" females on both ends. Just screw them on the valve and the male on the fridge. Might take two minutes.KK

  3. MJR | Apr 27, 2007 04:34am | #4

    Sardog, I had the same thing I found out that there is a little sleeve that fits into the tube to stop it from being crushed when you tighten it down. mike

    1. Sardog | Apr 27, 2007 05:57am | #7

      MJ

      I've never seen a tube for 1/4" .

      Can you point me in the correct direction for it.

      Jeff

      1. User avater
        popawheelie | Apr 27, 2007 06:04am | #10

        There is a little piece you put in the end of the plastic tubing. It keeps it from being crushed by the compresion part. But the copper ones don't have that.

        In my experience they have to be tightened alot. Maybe grease up the parts a bit to ease the tightening. I work on bicycles and greasing small fasteners works.

      2. MJR | Apr 27, 2007 02:21pm | #11

        Sardog, Sorry missed the copper part. Mike

  4. roger g | Apr 27, 2007 05:32am | #5

    I used to be the Maytag man and installed lots of those things. It looks like you are doing everything right. There are no sleeves in a copper compression fitting and since you cut a few inches off and with a new ring, it should work. Is it leaking at the base of the nut or where the tubing goes into the nut? You have to tighten them hard for the compression fitting to bite into the tubing. There shouldn't be much left to "sneek up".

     Just hang in there you are on the right track...................other than it leaks.

     

    roger

    1. Sardog | Apr 27, 2007 05:54am | #6

      Roger

      At the top of the nut.

      Jeff

      1. roger g | Apr 27, 2007 06:00am | #9

        It's getting passed the ring. Crank it hard.

         

         

        roger

  5. plumbbill | Apr 27, 2007 02:35pm | #12

    I prefer braided SS supplies, but if you insist on using copper check the ferrule & make sure there isn't any cracks or imperfections in the part.

    Also put a thin layer of pipe dope ( NOT TEFLON TAPE) in-between the copper tubing & the ferrule, on the outside of the ferrule once it is on the tubing, some on the threads of the compression fitting.

    I fear no man & only one GOD. Me

    1. Sardog | Apr 27, 2007 04:05pm | #14

      Plumb

      I am wide open for good suggestions.

      Where can I get more info on the SS type stuff.

      I want to get rid of the problem for this and future jobs.

      Jeff

      1. sharpblade | Apr 27, 2007 04:28pm | #17

        Can find SS hoses in plumbing section of HW stores, HD... Just installed a couple last month. made by GE.

        View Image

      2. plumbbill | Apr 28, 2007 04:10am | #20

        Here's a Fluidmaster noburst ice maker connection

        http://fluidmaster.com/ice_maker.htmlI fear no man & only one GOD. Me

  6. sharpblade | Apr 27, 2007 03:19pm | #13

    I don't know if you're doing this,  but the end of the 1/4" copper line that which you attach into the compression fitting needs to be perfectly round so it mates 100% with the ring. Because it is soft and old, it may have been sqwished (sp?) and the leak develops between it and the ring? Trim back to a perfectly round section

    also as others mentioned, a bit of teflon lube and a good snug-up (instead of sneaking up). Don't be shy.

    EDIT I meant teflon based thread sealant, NOT tape



    Edited 4/27/2007 9:17 am ET by sharpblade

    1. Sardog | Apr 27, 2007 04:09pm | #15

      Sharp

      I cut the pipe back 3 or 4 inches with a pipe cutter.

      Pipe looked good and round.

      I used a new furrel (sp?) and nut.

      I'll try the teflon lube (I thought I wasn't supposed to do that on flair and compression fittings.)

      What about regular pipe dope for threads?

      Jeff

      1. sharpblade | Apr 27, 2007 04:16pm | #16

        Teflon lube ==>> I meant the teflon thread sealant, like Reactor seal. sorry about the lack of clarity. It acts like a lube as well because that's  another one of its properties. Makes tightening easier. regular pipe dope works well too, the teflon based stuff is more hi-tech ;>)

        Teflon tape is the no-no in this case.

        Edited 4/27/2007 9:31 am ET by sharpblade

      2. MikeHennessy | Apr 27, 2007 04:29pm | #18

        In addition to what everyone else has said, check the fitting you're attaching to. A scratch or other defect in the fitting can make it almost impossible to get a good seal. If all else fails, I've solved leakers in the past by *lightly* soldering the ferrul onto the tubing and using pipe dope on the connection and nut after soldering.

        Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

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