12’x 14″ oak log to be cut down to a perfectly round 10″ column.
No sawmills nearby, didn’t buy the backyard sawmill that was advertised in the hundreds of catalogs I’ve received after signing up for six.
Chainsaw 4 sides, cut off corners = octagon, repeat, get close.
Templates made, now we need to make final trim.
Set it up horizontally/vertically as a big lathe? Set up a jig for a router and pare it down that way or use a big spokeshave?
Thoughts?
Replies
>> Thoughts?
My first thought is that a solid column is going to check, probably rather dramatically. There's a reason wood columns are usually hollow.
"Perfectly round" suggests that the client is not interested in a rustic look, which is what I think you'll get with a solid column.
Edited 4/25/2007 2:46 pm by UncleDunc
yer a thinkin' man, uncledunc! View Image
I also have in my mind that seemingly wealthy, but most terribly impoverished class of all, who have accumulated dross, but know not how to use it, or get rid of it, and thus have forged their own golden or silver fetters.
Parolee # 53804
Sorry,
maybe I shoulda been more clear, I said column to keep the discussion simple. This is to make a traditional Fukien White Crane mook, which is similar to, but more complicated than, the Wing Chung version. And I don't live in NM, beautifal area that it is; I live in Hyattsville, Md. just outside of D.C.
If you're anywhere near Carlsbad, NM, you could bring it over this weekend--my husband is in need of a diversion:-)
Twenty-plus years ago I found my husband a home-made lathe that someone had built specifically for turning down large posts. Big screw on one side (both sides?) for an automatic feed mechanism; platform mounted to that to hold a router; three speeds--but have to change which belt goes to which pulley.
Kathleen
Set up a jig for a router and pare it down that way or use a big spokeshave?
Well, the mast-makers of old always held to draw-knife & spokeshave; but they also needed a taper along with a laundry list of square and octagon and related flats for bolsters, cheeks, and the like.
Now, I'm going to have to google the reference you gave further along . . .
Square to octagon to 16-sided to 32-sided, thence to round always a bit nicer with a jig to help. It's when you need 11 jigs, or the set-up time for that many, that's what will really tell you what the choice ought to be.
Thanks,
that's pretty cool...Even if the techniques aren't the "best" for this job; boatbuilders/shipwrights(?) must have been impressive carpenters.Thanks again.
that's pretty cool...
Well, after you confused me with "chinese boxing style" rather than a column order . .. <g>
I've whittled some spars; some turned out nice--others were a bit more rustic <sigh>. Learned my lesson with some flag poles--built up around a hollow core can be much much better (which, I think, is where Unc'Dunc was trying to head).
Very few things as fussy as the set up to take a tapered corner off 24' of square made-up spar stock on the tablesaw--that 'spensive fence on the power planer starts looking pretty cheap after a bit <g>
But, I'm here to tell you, there are few finishes on wood as elegant as the honing a good sharp blade makes, and sanding 'steals' away. (That, and a really well-made mortice <g>; maybe someday I'll learn how to make one . . . )Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I did exactly what you're suggesting in order to make some columns that look like masts. Here's what I did.
One section (20') of a 40' extension ladder supported horizontally on three saw horses.
Built two right angle pieces out of plywood to act as a headstock and tailstock. These rode on the rails of the ladder to accomodate different length logs. The "tailstock" had some side to side adjustability to allow the log to be tapered.
Built a plywood sliding carriage for my 3hp router this had some in-out adjustability so i could move the bit closer to the log as the log was getting closer to "round".
Finally, I used a plywood disk slightly larger than the diameter of the log. I screwed this to the "headstock" end of the log. I screwed a large lag bolt into the center of the plywood disk and into the log and another lag bolt into the center of the tailstock end of the log. Said log was suspended by the lag bolts between the centers in the headstock and tailstock, ply wood disk was clamped to the headstock so the log wouldn't turn, router turned on and one pass down the length of the log with a one inch flat bottomed bit, rails were kept oiled so the carriage would slide easily on the ladder rails. Then disk unclamped and log turned about an inch, disk reclamped and one more pass with the router. etc.
It only took about an hour to round out each pine log. You obviously have to use a longer log than the length of the column you need because of the waste up at the headstock and tailstock ends. When it was done, I left the logs on the "lathe" and used a bench plane to clean up some of the flat faces or facets that were left, then sanded.
For my purposes, I wanted the logs to look like a mast, so some faceting of the final log was desirable. The masts did crack but i filled cracks with a black caulk and the end result was very mast-like.
Good luck.
Muggs
I had to make some 9' columns once and I didn't have access to a lathe that big so I made my own - well something that would do the job.
See attachments.
I built a three sided plywood box, added ends onto the thing and then put a 20 penny nail through the end so that the post could spin.
I built a bridge for the router to sit on so that I could turn the column. With the router spinning against the column the spin of the router bit caused the column to spin so all I had to do was move the router down the box. Took me about 20 minutes to turn the 9' column.
I don't know how this would work for you since your using a solid piece of wood but I'd certainly try it. Of course you'll need to get it closer to round before starting.
I'd question the use of a solid piece of wood - concerned about checking.
Doug
Edited 4/25/2007 11:13 pm ET by DougU