Hello all,
Could anyone suggest their favorite bathroom floor tile? I’m thinking of that old-fashioned hexagonal tile in sheets. Have you ever used Home Depot or Lowe’s as a source? Any suggestions on laying it? Or do you have another fabulous suggestion for a tiled bathroom floor?
Thanks,
Anne
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Replies
Welcome to Breaktime.
May I suggest you check a few tile stores. There's about a gazillion tile styles available today.
The first step in any tile floor job is making sure the subfloor is solid. Because so many expensive tile floors get ruined by inadequate support, it's worth having someone who knows what their doing check out your situation.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll be tiling over 1.5" of concrete, which was poured over 5/8" radiant heat tubing. Yep, it's solid, and new construction. So, what I've heard so far re. those little hexagons: "They're too tricky to lay. Go with the big squares." So the research continues (until it matches my opinion)...
-ahl
Their not tricky to lay, just cutting those little bastards is the hard part. If you plan it right and can avoid cuts (not in the sheet, but the tile itself), not too bad at all. Best of luck.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Cal's right ...
they come in sheets ... easy to lay ... pain in the butt to trim.
If ..... U can go wall to wall with just finish cuts at the threshold ... great.
if U have any cuts that have to show ....
with get a good set of hand nippers .... the more money usually the better and more comfortable .... and do them one by one.
if U have access to a wet saw ... ask at the real tile store U buy them from for a coupla scraps of 12x12 or so pieces ... run them thru the tile saw almost the whole way thru ...
U just made a zero clearance wet saw table.
Keep the big tile in place and set the sheets on top ....
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Greetings and welcome to BT, first off.
Only get tile from the "big box" store if you absolutely know what you are doing (and it can be iffy, then, too). A local tile shop will not be that much more expensive--and will more likely have someone who knows what a tile is (won't be from the garden, or appliance, department). So the advice you'll get will more than make up any difference.
Hardest thing about the small hex tiles for me is controlling thinset "squish up" between them, whihc can make grouting afterwards even less fun. In full disclosure, I abhore grouting tile in both general and specific--even if I will do it for money. I'm not that fond of setting tile either, but if it pays the bills . . .
So, the small tiles are not bad--getting some mosaic tape from the tile store can help with the cutting (Wilbur, from Electrical, will have to see if Darryl, or his other brother Darrel, the manager, will have to help you with that in the big box . . . )
Sometimes, a square tile laid on the bias gives a similar effect--but it's not as nice as a proper hex tile. They also make hex tiles bigger than 3/4", but we're back to asking the nice people at the tile store (and yes, I'd much rather keep them company than putting tile in, unless ,there's money in ti <sigh> . . . )
One caution--some tile places have bad coffee . . . it's either all the dust, or they want to run off the time-wasting bozos leaning on the counter . . .
Another tip with any tile that comes in sheets. Squint. It's important that you space the sheets so that the grout joint between sheets is precisely the same as the pre-set joints between tiles on a sheet. Squinting at them is the best way to judge if the gap is equal.
I think DalTile still sells them, in sedveral colors. I think they also sell half tiles so you don't have to cut so many. Check their web page for store locations. If you use hex tiles on the floor, consider using 3x6 subway tiles on the wall for a classic look.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
As Ed just said, the hex is available from Daltile -- Home Depot stocks it in my neck of the woods.
I'm not an expert tile setter, but I've done about a half dozen floors so far with the hex. Knock on wood, I haven't had any significant troubles so far!
I lay out everything dry before I mix up the first bag of thinset. With a helper, it's fairly easy to rip the sheets on a wet saw (the sheets are about 12" x 18" as I recall. Get everything just the way you like it, and then put a few reference marks on the backer board using a permanent marker. When you start combing down the thinset, leave tiny bare spots (the size of a quarter) so you can still see the reference points.
I use a 3/16" V-notch trowel. By not putting down too much thinset, you'll avoid the thinset "squishing up" between the tiles as others have mentioned. Just be sure that you're getting good adhesion, and that the thinset is not too dry. Comb down fairly small areas at a time so the thinset doesn't skin over and result in poor adhesion. And when I set the tile sheets, I don't use excessive force in pushing them down, either. I carefully brush my hand over the face of the sheets to feel for any high spots. A nice, true piece of plywood (about 16" square) can help you locate high spots as well.
One final "trick" is to install the baseboards and shoes AFTER the tile is down. This way, you'll be covering about an inch with trim, and you'll have a lot more wiggle room around the perimeter.
Thanks for your suggestions. Also read the fine grout discussion of archives. Intense.
So I will check my local tile guys first. Also, for anyone near Portland OR: Pratt and Larsen's seconds room has hexagonal floor tile , white and white w/black for 5.35 - $6/sq. ft.
I'm considering the subway tile look for the tub surround. Particularly if I go for a small clawfoot tub.
The surface itself, concrete, is not (yet) perfectly flat. Would you correct for the lumps, before laying tile sheets, with .... thinset?
But you know, it's the paint store that has the best coffee.
ahl
The surface itself, concrete, is not (yet) perfectly flat. Would you correct for the lumps, before laying tile sheets, with .... thinset?
If possible, I would mechanically knock down the high points with a cold chisel, etc. If the lumps are more like rolling hills, then I think you'll be stuck with filling in the low areas.
Use a straight edge to figure out just how much filling there is going to be. Then determine what product is best suited to your needs. I'm not sure if thinset is intended to be used as a leveling compound, so you should do some reading up on it before just going ahead and doing it.
Hope that helps.
The trick I use on sheet tile is to water the thinset down just a tiny bit more than you would for any other kind of tile, that way you can easily spead it thin and, completely avoid the squishing it up through the grout lines. And good nippers are a must like somone said before, I personally can't buy a good pair here in this small town, so I borrow a pair from my partner, beacause he's got a good pair. The brand they sell at the local supply is a plastic peice of junk.
Good luck, and they are not as hard as everyone is telling you
Jason