Owner of a future new home has asked, what’s the most economical siding in terms of installed cost? Wood and Hardi are the only items being considered. If you had two identical houses to do, one with 1×8″ tight-knot cedar channel siding, and one with 7-1/4″ Hardi lap, which would install faster? All trim is wood and is pre-installed in both cases.
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You are asking this question in a poor way. The cedar siding would be cheaper and install quicker but would require more maintenance and possibly last less long. Personally I would go with Hardi because of it's paint holding advantage. It is a quite complex decision though and either will give good service.
If you're implying that I don't understand the difference between installed cost and lifetime cost, you're wrong. Sorry to bother you with a poorly worded question.
David,
Judging by the messages you're getting here, I guess costs swing wildly depending on where you are.
Here in MA, installers are starting to get up to speed with the FC siding. They're no longer afraid of it (because it's relatively new and there are some unknowns) and many are now properly tooled up for it. So F/C install is pretty much on par with cedar clap install from a cost stand-point. And F/C is dirt cheap compared to cedar claps. I think I paid around .32/lineal foot for 5 1/4" Hardie this time last year. That's cheap dude. So cheap that I donated about 15 sq of left overs to a guy building a dog shelter.
I hate to say it, but I'd call some installers in your area and get some pricing from them because apparantly either everyone is just guessing or the cost is vastly different depending on where you're standing. I know that just two years ago or so guys were raping GC's in FC installs. Then when they got the hang of it, and both the installers and GC's realized it really isn't much different than clap install... the prices came way down. Now it's about the most economical thing you can put on a house....both up front and looking at the future.View Image
cedar clap is a natve product here...
12' of cedar is $1.70 less a stick...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Dat's why I figure it's best he ask around locally.View Image
Wow, ask a simple question, get....
I haven't installed Hardi, so I don't know how fast it goes. I've installed a ton of wood siding, I know how fast that goes. I understand the issues related to the longevity of the material, the paint, etc. Hardi has its proponents, so does wood. I can see lots of reasons to use both. The question remains a very simple one yet most people need to add more to it.
There's no such thing as a siding sub here. If I build the house I'll be putting up the siding.
David,
We've been using Hardi since about 1996. We switched from the old LP. I personally don't like Hardi to install because of the dust. I also don't like that it telegraphs (even with the walls sheathed) all imperfections in the walls.
On this house http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/4215098/106870194.jpg that we framed and sided last summer, that wall in the right looked great in the light the picture was taken in. Then one afternoon the sun hit that wall just wrong and it looked like hell. Its only that one time of day. We bottom nail wherever there are gaps and do our best to make it look good, we even used fingerjointed studs on that house.
A lot of the houses are here and in other areas look bad in certain light, but look just fine most of the time. Its just when the sun hits it from a certain angle and the shadows made by the siding show the imperfections.
http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/4215098/127580258.jpg
One thing I have done underneath when installing Hardie board is to put a small dab of urethane caulk about every 16" between courses at the top of the previous course to keep the bottom of the next course from pulling away. It seems to have worked well.
Edited 8/25/2006 11:47 pm by gb93433
That bears to be repeated...good call.!
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" If ya plan to face tomorrow, do it soon"
most economical siding in terms of installed cost
Do you possibly mean most economical in terms of life-cycle cost?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
No, I mean installed cost. It's a question about the relative speed of installing wood vs. FC for people who have done both and can comment on it.
With due respect, I think the question is irrelevant. Just because product A installs twice as fast as product B does not mean that is twice as good. Or even equal value.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I've never compared, but I suspect that wood would take more time to paint, if that's factored into the equation.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
For today the wood is cheaper.
For the long haul Hardi.
Wood is lighter and easier to handle. Cuts quicker also and the blades are cheaper and last for many jobs with proper care. Burns real well too.
Hardi is heavy. (but holds a nice level line while hanging it) A little more money up front. Cuts a little slower and the blades are not cheap. (if you are sawing it) The dust ruins a good slider so you might want to add that cost into the job. They all say it hold paint great.
I banked on Hardi.
I just bought 1ooo.oo$ of Hardie Lap @ .98c a sqft , preprimed.
Cedar was over 2.00 sqft. So yer incorrect on the cost ( at least here in Ky.)
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" If ya plan to face tomorrow, do it soon"
That has been my expereiece too.
Install... Cedar.. but high maint
Life of the home.. Hardie... and low maint...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
dave.... if you know the material cost in your area, figure the labor cost for FC at double the labor cost for wood
All right! That's info I can relate to.
For those that want to continue the debate, we could talk about the environmental issues of both materials... their longevity, the longevity of the paint, how to factor in the energy-intensive manufacture of cement board vs. locally-produced cedar siding that's sawn 5 miles from here...
I would have to assume that the cost of the two products are pretty similar given your location. With that in mind, I can't imagine why anyone would put cement siding on a house if they had some beautiful cedar available.
Cement siding is fake looking just like vinyl. It's not as ugly, but it still looks fake to me. It's a pain to install compared to wood. Good quality cedar with a good quality finish such as Sikkens will last a long, long time. The first home I ever built back in 1976 has cedar siding that was restained one time and looks as good as the day I first built it.
If you aren't on the west coast, cedar can be just too much to afford for most people, but there is no comparison in the quality of the job if you use it.
Just my opinion....
Maintenece is a factor of climate, exposure, humidity and personal preferences. Some people cannont accept a little weather and pay to have the siding washed and restained every 3 years.
If you are dealing with bugs, moisture or harsh climate conditions and not interested in maintaining the siding then I would consider the hardi plank. If natural beauty of the materials is a concern then I would reconsider.
Why should there be any difference? Hardie is heavier, nastier to cut, and I can only get 12 foot lengths.
It's also all straight, and installs exactly the same as cedar, no difference.
I know the materials in question is wood vs. concrete, but why not
vinyl? I looked into both cedar and Hardie with great interest, but was
turned back from cedar, due to cost ( built a new addition. To comply with existing cedar 3/4" x 10" leaving 8 3/4" reveal $ 3.45 sq. ft.
(Michigan prices)
The plus was it is natural. Rot free ( ?)
Hardie issues: tools to cut materials, holding the
material carefully as to not have it snap in two, and then painting it.
The plus was the termite proof and fire resistant and 50 yr. warranty.
I went with the Crane Board Vinyl, with a R-factor of 4 attached
to the material. $ 2.85 sq. ft. Found it easy to install and matched
my existing cedar. (Cedar needs to be painted to match the new vinyl).
2 cents from MI.
I love it.
You asked a very simple question.
If I may paraphrase my exact and instant understanding, "What's cheaper in terms of material + installation labor?"
in 22 replies, you got many answers about the lifetime costs and one (1) to your question.
My answer is. . .I dunno.
Hate to hijack this post, David, but when will we see the photo essay of your new shop and studio?
Economical in view of installed cost? Go with the STK cedar, but please paint it, not stain.
Use the best alkyd primer money can buy, prime every single surface, then paint it with an exterior acrylic latex, the top line from one of the folks like Sherwin Williams, ICF, or Benjamin Moore. Keep the cans and brushes handy when doing the installation so that all cuts get reprimed.
For the long haul, though, and you know this already, the FC product will win out hands down. Those expensive repaints will be greatly spaced out, as compared to wood.