Replies

1. 
   fingersandtoes | Apr 29, 2008 10:48pm | #1

   Your best bet is an advanced search. This topic comes up about once a month and there have been lots on interesting advice on most systems.

2. 
   saulgood | May 02, 2008 03:46pm | #2

   Since you asked about "tiger claw" - I helped a friend install 2x6 "Trex" with that system. He picked it because the deck was high up and other blind fastening systems required that installation be done from below.

   While the system seems perfectly effective, I gotta say that from a labor standpoint the install was a royal pain. It required one clip at every other joist to be smacked into the edge of each board with a four pound sledge and special "smacking tool" (not easy with the dense Trex material, I recall) and then for each clip to be screwed down. Toolwise, this was a lot of picking up and putting down and it was hard to keep momentum.

   The installation may not bother some people, but for me it would be a deal breaker next time; if I couldn't work from underneath, I'd just use stainless and screw through the top.

1. 
   jgus | May 02, 2008 05:46pm | #3

   thanks for the input. I think they don't recommend this fastener with composites (too dense). I was going to use it with cedar. I"m sure it is still labor intensive but does it hold up over the long haul? redgreen

1. 
   saulgood | May 05, 2008 09:29am | #4

   As long as you're aware of the process...I suppose it does perform pretty well. The Trex decking remains flat and feels solid under foot about a year later, and that's with fasteners for each course only on every OTHER joist (although with this layout, each board is actually fastened at each joist -just not on both edges). For cedar or redwood, you might want to double that (i.e. use a fastener at every intersection) because of shrinkage and cupping. If you are going to use the Tiger Claw system, I have a few recommendations:1. Watch the instal video on their website -Even though their guy makes it look easier than it will actually be for a beginner with less than perfect conditions, it will give you something to shoot for. 2.Don't work alone, if you can help it. With all the tools needed it will help to break up the "jobs" into two. By the way, two people is probably the most you'd want.3. Shop around for flat, straight decking. This is critical for smooth installation -perhaps more than usual (Tiger Claw gives you enough things to do without worrying about wrestling the boards into line). If the selection is poor, wait till there's a new shipment. On the other hand, try to avoid wood that's really wet (read:heavy and unpredictable). Of course you could order your wood over the phone, but this will get you the top thirty or forty boards on the stack, good and bad. You may spend hours picking out decking (and it takes two people to do it right), but you're gonna have to install it AND live with it so let someone else buy YOUR rejects - not the other way around.4. Invest in a cordless impact driver with a lithium ion battery, if you haven't already. Seriously (you'll thank me for this later). Apologies if this is more info than you needed - just my four cents. Good luck!

3. 
   kltzycrpntr | May 05, 2008 12:37pm | #5

   I just used 'tiger claw' on an Azek (Procell) deck. And I must say it was a time consuming PITA. I'd definitely make some spacers, at least an 1/8, but probably 3/16. Once you get into it you'll see why. And make sure you keep the spacers in, and put an eye on the boards for straightness every other board. It's easy to get a 'curve' to the board. Also, make sure the teeth are perfectly horizontal. If they're angled up, the newly installed decking board will be a bit higher than the previous one. That's my experience with 'tiger claw'