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I’ve used those 22″ strips a couple of times. A little more time consuming and access to the underside is a must but the decks looked great and I got no call backs. Both of these were 2×6 ptl and I used 1-5/8 galvanized screws. Remember, bark side down. 😉
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I've used those 22" strips a couple of times. A little more time consuming and access to the underside is a must but the decks looked great and I got no call backs. Both of these were 2x6 ptl and I used 1-5/8 galvanized screws. Remember, bark side down. ;)
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b TVMDC
Karel, Use Eb-Ty deck fasteners which are plastic biscuits. Installation is from the top. You cut the biscuit slots with a plate joiner and set a screw at a 45 degree angle through the biscuit. The biscuits are nearly invisible since they are black and installation is a piece of cake.
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For more information, look here.
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Wed:
Thanks for your reply on the 22 inch strips. I think I will use then since I have easy access to the bottom of the deck. I am confused by your comment "bark side down". If you do not mind giving a rookie one more answer... I will be glad to put "bark side down" but how do you tell??
Thanks...
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b TVMDC
The bark side of a plank is towards the outside of the tree. The annual growth rings are circular and they should be placed on the joists so that they are like the letter "U", see attachment.
*Karel,If it's not too late, use the Eb Ty. I learned about them here on Breaktime. You can teach an old dog new tricks. Best thing since sliced bread.Ed. Williams
*ad: Just sent off for some literature from EbTy. For some reason I got the idea they this type of system only worked on synthetic deck boards but apparently I am wrong. Ed...your em-ail suggests that we both live in callas. If so how do you like the weather... my dogs won't even sleep under the truck on the jobsite...they want inside work where it's air conditioned. Bow the deck I am referring to is in Red River New Mexico where the temp today was 34 to 68...perhaps you would like to come up and inspect my finished product. If so do not forget your trout pole.... hiking boots and skies in the winter.Anyway thanks a million for your reply....Karel
*We used the metal strips on our deck, which was built about 5 years ago. It still looks great. Our main difficulty was the engineer who lives next door. (He is kind-of the neighborhood "building guru", and he's given us a lot of much appreciated help over the years.) He does not like "new-fangled" things, and announced to everyone who would listen that the system wouldn't work, and the boards would pop up in a year. He also ridiculed us for the amount of additional time we spent installing it. The system is still working great, and we get many, many compliments on the appearance. Whatever system you choose, I think you'll be happy with the smooth appearance, even if it takes a bit longer to install.
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I am currently constructing a deck around a Mountain retreat in Northern New Mexico. The deck will be 2 by 6 redwood or cedar over a 2 by 10 frame. I would like to nail the deck boards to the frame using a method for hiding the nails from view. One system involves a metal piece about 22 inches long attached to the frame and screwed from underneath the deck with stainless steel screws. The other is "clip like" bracket made by Simpson Strongtie.Strong tie.appreciate and feedback on these systems and any other that may be out there. Also I would like to know where to purchase the system that is recommended. Thanks....
*I used the concealed system (22" brackets) one time about 4 years ago. I had to run coated deck screwsdown into a few spots because inconsistant joist widths and crowns caused a few squeeks. I must admit the finish product is very visually appealing.If your deck is close to grade then its far more challenging to use this product. If it is a second story deck then I might consider this product as you can access it from below when screws loosen up. I prefer to screw decks down. No callbacks.