I’m getting ready to install 5/4×6 Ipe decking on a job and want to try a hidden fastener system. Any comments or recommedations would be appreciated. The clip sold locally is plastic and I’m concerned about how long it will last. Does someone make a stainless steel clip? BTW, I don’t have access from below as we are installing metal flashing in the joist bays to water proof thhe area under the deck. Nothing is easy.
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Comment: "hidden deck fasteners" should've never been invented as an option.
Recommendation: Fasten the boards from above. You'll still have to see fasteners in places like hand rails, stair treads and risers so why the extra time and effort to hide the floor board screws? Plus you'll spend more money on the clip system. Instead, use that extra money and go with stainless steel trim head screws.
I did'nt see anything in his post about pinching pennies
If he can afford the little extra for hidden fasteners I highly recommend it. and if you are smart enough you can screw down all the othe components from the bottom side
FWIW, he doesnt have a choice but to use stainless if he's using ACQ framing
<< FWIW, he doesnt have a choice but to use stainless if he's using ACQ framing >>
What about powder-coated steel, polypropylene (Eb-Ty, Lumber-Loc), lexan (Invisi-Fast, Fastenmaster IQ), hot-dip galvies (Dec-Klip, or Simpson Dec-Tie)?
All of those can be used with ACQ lumber, as far as I know.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Remodelerator
Thanks for the information. I just signed up as an online member so that I can read your article.
Make sure , if you use the Ebty or similar, that there is no space between decking and joists. You must put your weight on the decking right where it is fastened or it will creak when walked on.
<< You'll still have to see fasteners in places like hand rails, stair treads and risers so why the extra time and effort to hide the floor board screws? >>
I've seen plenty of installations where the rails, stair treads and risers had hidden fasteners - just takes a little bit of planning. Besides, the result isn't just aesthetic. Less chances for water to penetrate the deck planks, and sit there in little pools waiting to soak in, the better.
Check out this article, there are lots of choices on the market: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/deck-fastener-options.aspx?LangType=1033&ac=fp
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Remodelerator
Edited 3/14/2007 9:47 am ET by JFink
My favorite hidden fastener is the Tiger Claw.........It's fast and works great. No sqeaks or creaks like I had happen with another system I used.
I used the Deckmate system. Expensive. About a million screws/sq.ft. = labor intensive. But it works fine. No need to pre-drill anything but screws within about 2" of a board end.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
I did it myself I'm not a pro and it came out looking awesome. Get the boards milled for the hidden fasteners beforehand. We used eb-ty but if I did it again I would use a different companys similar product made with metal (they were featured in the FHB article). They seemed more invisible and stronger to me but I have not had any failures with the eb-tys
Daniel Neuman
Oakland CA
Crazy Home Owner
Try searching back to earlier threads. There have been a lot of interesting ideas, including using wooden cleats, and some good discussion of the various hidden fastener systems.
Eb ty's work well but take a lot of time. I've used them and the look is great and but the install was long and tiring. Ipe is time consuming but Ipe with Eb ty take forever. There are other clips that I imagine are about the same as eb ty. The cost of the eb ty's is a little pricey too.
I also like to use pl premium polyurethane construction adhesive with the decking and the clips or screws. The adhesive is stronger than anything, so that with the clips means the Ipe will stay forever. I think the glue also keeps the deck from making any noise in the future if the wood drys a bit, theres not cricking noises when I've use the glue.
If your not familiar with Ipe, heres a site with some good info. Two musts are ventilation and sealing the cuts with anchorseal or another wax like sealer to keep the ends from checking.
http://www.ironwoods.com/ResInstall.asp
Also, in your profile, fill in your location. Sometimes that will get you extra tips in local sources, maybe some things that I necessary for an install in your area vs. another, etc.
Edited 3/20/2007 9:32 pm ET by DDay
The Eb-Ty system works pretty well, if you use const. adhesive also. Otherwise, any movement in the decking will pull the trimhead screw right through the plastic biscuit. I've found them to be faster than pre-drilling and screwing from the top, the spacing is built into the biscuit, so you just slam them tight, put in one screw, and move on. Your first and last course still need to be face screwed, so if you really want hidden you have to plug the holes.
Tiger Claw is pretty tough to pound into Ipe , same issue with first and last course, slower, otherwise works OK.
I had problems with overtorqueing screws in the Deck Clips, and having them make contact with the PT joists.
Undermount systems are a PITA with Ipe, if you don't pre-drill, you snap a ton of screws, access from underneath is always an issue, and you need one guy just standing around on the decking to hold it down while you screw it in.
If anyone has experience with Ipe Clip Extreme or Lumber Loc I'd like to hear about it.
I think that Tigerclaw is SS. We had our own SS biscuits made.