Hey all,
I’ve decided the best way to put the roof on my new 24’x36′ shop/garage is to build my own trusses. I want to construct them in place, at the end of the building using the top of the walls and a scaffold/prop in the center as the staging area.
Precut the pieces, slam them together with plywood gussets, then slide them out of the way to install as I go.
anyone have any constructive advice or tips?
Replies
Boss Hog might, he's our resident Truss Expert.
But he may also be tired with questions like this..............try the search feature for trusses, homemade etc.
Eric
It's Never Too Late To Become
What You Might Have Been
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wow,
I just did a search. seems like a touchy subject.
Nevermind!
try typing in tyvek, tarpaper or Piffin screws!!!It's Never Too Late To Become
What You Might Have Been
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If it's simply a rectangle & I was doing it myself, I'd use 2x10's & cut rafters instead. Much easier than trying to build & set up trusses on your own, plus then you'd have attic space.
If you are set on trusses, you're better off buying them. Did you have an engineer sign off on your truss design?
Some jurisdictions require an engineers stamp on trusses. I've built many on site, years ago. You need to use the correct grade and size lumber. We built jigs on the floor so that each truss was exactly the same. I think it's easier to frame up with stick built rafters. By the time you cut all the parts, gussets, make the jig and assemble everything, you could have three roofs framed. The fire department won't condemn the building and you can have some attic space for additional storage.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
If you did a search, you might have already come up with the thread I did on Building Your Own Trusses. It covers what I think about the subject.
As a matter of fact, I just had a guy call me yesterday about some homemade trusses that had collapsed. He wanted to pick my brain on the subject.
The trusses collpased recently for no apparent reason. He called his insurance company, and they came out for a look. The insurance company saw the homemade trusses and called in an engineer.
The engineer sent the insurance company a letter saying the trusses were of substandard design. So the insurance company refused to pay to have the building fixed, since it wasn't constructed to "workmanlike standards". (Or something like that)
The guy was pretty upset. He thought the trusses looked fine. After all, they had lasted 15 years - So there couldn't possibly be anything wrong with them.
He wanted me to come up with a way to prove that his trusses were O.K. so he could fight the insurance company. Naturally, I refused.
I've never heard of that happening before. But it could be yet another reason not to build your own. Insurance companies will use anything they can to keep from paying a claim.
"Insurance companies will use anything they can to keep from paying a claim."
C'mon, Ron. Think about what you're saying. You, of all people, who scream the loudest about home made trusses think that the evil insurance company should pay for this guys experiment in truss design ?
Should we also pay for the fire that resulted from the unpermitted, uninspected DIY wiring hack job ?
What about the re-roof for the guy that did his own roof and stapled the three tab shingles on with his handy dandy Stanley staple gun ? I had a windstorm claim where the torn-off shingles were nailed on with two nails per shingle, nailed on the high side of the shingle, just a couple of inches down from the top. And this was on a 3:12 slope.. We paid the claim for the benefit of the homeowner, but we subrogated against her son-in-law who built and roofed the porch.
Insurance isn't intended to cover poor workmanship.
Greg
I wasn't trying to imply that an insurance company SHOULD pay to replace anything built with sub-standard workmanship. I only said that this was the first time I'd ever heard of this happening. And that it might be a legitimate reason NOT to build your own trusses..BTW - I don't "scream" about people building their own trusses. I think I presented a fair and reasonable case to support my opinions, and left it at that. I get awfully tired of people bitching at me about the subject. Not necessarilly here on BT, but elsewhere too.
Being scared can keep a man from getting killed, and often makes a better fighter of him [Louis L'Amour]
hey , are you ron teti's Shady ?
I would stick build it myself. I have built trusses several times. Make sure you have an architect or engineer check your drawing. If you decide to build trusses,do it on the ground. Set up on fairly level ground with a sawhorse at each point. All material should be cut with a pattern. Do not use overly crowned rafter stock. First truss is a jig too. Fasten first complete truss to the horses. Build off of this, add scrap to perimeter of jig to align pieces.
When each truss is complete, carry them to the walls upside down, they will flip up easily. You are only lifting part of the weight then.Repeat with remaining trusses.I nail and use adhesive on the gussets. You could set the majority of the trusses on the walls upside down before installing, make sure you tie across temporarily so the walls don't spread. Leave enough room to flip up the last few trusses, lean them against the last one set.
It's a lot easier on the ground, you still have to tip them up into place,my way a little further.
mike
Mike,
I like your plan.
However some of the other posts have had a sobering effect...in a good way.
while I appreciate both side of the issue I just don't go for the whole "engineered, got be built in a truss factory" reasoning.
surely the bottom line forces factory built trusses to be technically up to standards, but just barely. Then when you see them stretched out, tweaked as they slide off a dump bed, you know that part is not engineered into the specs.
I believe it's mostly about making triangles, which become self supporting. A concientious owner builder can make as good or better trusses than any factory.
That said, I understand and heed the warnings. Probably if I do build them this input will make me build them better. This is a good place, I appreciate it. Thanks all.
But it a hell a lot cheaper to buy them already made in a plant.
Shady, I just wanted to make sure you had enough knowledge to design your own. From your last post I believe you do. I have an architect design everything for me, mostly because he's my son and it costs a beer or two.
Get started building them trusses.
mike
Hello Shady.
I would listen to Boss Hog,
I recently started the same type of project. Or Similar, Either order the trusses or stick frame the roof. Enough said from me. I wont go there again. LOL:)
Mike K
I assume you're talking 24' trusses. Here's a couple more observations;1) You don't mention slope, and this begs the question of convenience; if it's 4:12, then you're talking about the most commonly available truss of all. It's only about $40 here and one man can lift them - though they are b*tch to manouver. I can't imagine deciding to do my own truss of this type in any situation when they are so readily available and economical manufactured. If you have a unique situation and/or a steeper slope, then you are dealing with something that's going to be significantly heavier - tough for even two people to move into place. Is it worth the trouble if there is any other practical option? That said, smaller trusses would be so much easier to move and subject to less stress that I could easily imagin "manufacturing" them myself.2) Consider significantly oversizing the gussets. Doesn't cost much - doesn't add much time or that much more weight, but it does add a lot to it's ability to handle stress and help you sleep well.
the plan is for 5/12 pitch clear span for 24'. That's why stick building is out.
No plan for attic storage, just a drywall ceiling will be all the weight aside from snow load, moderate in my area.
Factory trusses here run me $62 each. I figure half of that for the materials for owner-built, so the savings will be about $600. If it takes me 3 days to construct the whole thing it would still pay off.
From what people have said here, one thing I would definetely do now is over size the gussets, and make them from 5/8 ply.
We'll see. If I could get some help I might just order the trusses.
the plan is for 5/12 pitch clear span for 24'. That's why stick building is out.
Why does that mean stick building is out we do that all the time with 2x8's, 2x10's or 2x12's with double rows of strongback and never have problems.
No plan for attic storage, just a drywall ceiling will be all the weight aside from snow load, moderate in my area.
That's what I mean, it's just a ceiling. You could have this thing framed 10 times faster if you stick build it then building your own trusses. If it's the cost of the material that's an issue and not the time and it's cheaper to make your own trusses then go for it.
To say that stick building it is out because it's 24' wideis not true because you can stick build it any day. But you have to do what's comfortable for you and your budget.
Joe Carola
framer,
I don't understand.
You can clear span a 24' ceiling without trusses how?
What about a collar tie around 16 or 18 feet long, it would give you a higher ceiling.
That won't work arrowpov. A higher collar tie will just sag the roof members.
Ask me how I know.
blue
I did not do the math to see how high it would be. I figured the tie about a foot above the top plate.
"I don't understand.
You can clear span a 24' ceiling without trusses how?"Yes you can clear span 24' ceiling joists all the time without trusses. I've done it many many times. I've done it with 2x8's, 2x10's and 2x12's with double rows of strongback only and double rows of strongback with verticle 2x4's nailed along side stronback and ceiling joists and along side the rafters and collar ties. It's all desined by the Architects and it works.Joe Carola
Edited 8/11/2005 7:42 am ET by Framer
with 24' long framing lumber
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Your plan is a lot like trying to change a flat tire while driving down the road
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
DON"T DO IT!!!!
If you do, Don't forget your VERTICAL members. Sum the Moments....etc.
Again, Don't do it.
Check around, Prefab is less expensive than you think, and well worth every penny, Delivered on Top.
Think about what your time is worth.
I was initially going to go with trusses.
an old friend, who is a hippie homestead type construction said build trusses. I trust his judgement as he is also a FWW type top notch woodworker.
Then all this while my neighbor down the road has been constructing a carport. One day over the fence chat he said he was building trusses for it. 24' span 4/12 pitch. Come on over and check it out.
Just today I stopped there as I had noticed the roof was on. He said, "go on jump up and grab that board". I jumped up and hung on the ceiling joist. I weigh about 185, the thing did not budge. I noticed no flex at all.
He said he read the specs in a carpenter book he has.
for the web you come down from the peak to one third point in the clear span, then back up to the half way point on the rafter. I asked him about one coming down from the peak to the chord. He said that's called a king pin truss or some such name. But he didn't use one.
His trusses are about 3' centers/ purlins and metal roof. which is kind of a light weight roof. Mine will be 2'centers w/5/8 ply sheathing and shingles.
anyway, I'm going on... after stopping there today and hanging on his truss. I'm definitely going to build my own. thanks to all for the advice.
Some state agricultural extension services have truss plans for farm shops etc.
I will not do the design for you for free.
You can certainly build your own trusses. You should start by looking at the APA site for the necessary engineering for your gussets.
But ...
It is easier to just stick frame the roof.
My 26'x28' shop required 2x6 rafters @16". The space below the rafters is clear.
It's not a bad option.
I haven't really considered it. A cathedral or vaulted ceiling would be alot less work and materials.
Harder to heat, but the additional head room would be a plus.
2X6 would not afford alot of insulation room.
something to think about
Use foam, and 2x6 provides plenty of insulation room.Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
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None of this matters in geological time.
"A cathedral or vaulted ceiling would be alot less work and materials.
Harder to heat, but the additional head room would be a plus.
2X6 would not afford alot of insulation room.
something to think about"If you want for insulation reasons use 2x8 rafters with just a ridge and collar ties at the proper height which would be the easiest and fastest way to frame this.If you dont want collar ties or any ceiling joists just put in a structural ridge.Joe Carola
Edited 8/11/2005 3:21 pm ET by Framer
I'm giving this vaulted ceiling idea alot of thought.
I like the idea of the head room and ease of framing.
I could collar tie it to allow a 4' sheet of drywall for the flat ceiling.
R-38 is maxing out in terms of benefits in my area.
Don't think I could get that much.
But I'm gonna look into it.
now U need a structural ridge
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