when you have horizontal clap boards on a wall say wood 1×8, and two ends meet (not the ends at the cornerboards) what type flashing do you specify / want under that joint? metal? to prevent water getting in ? a piece of tar paper?
I know the joint will get caulked but seems a good job would have more?
Framing the floor inside a crawlspace foundation keeps a gable-end addition close to grade.
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Replies
Keep a pile of tarpaper slips about 4x6 in one of your pouches to tack up behind that joint and laying over the previous run.
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I don't get it: Why would tarpaper BEHIND the clapboard joint keep water from getting IN the joint?
The caulking and/or scarf joint is what prevents it from getting in. The trapaper is what kicks it back out again when that last drop or two does manage to penetrate. It is the way i was taught way before we had good caulking products like we do now, and I have torn off lots of sideing thathad the same detailing, but the stuf with not backing slips had signs of mild water damage, no matter what shape the paint and caulk was in.
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This is a detail that many if not most 'modern' carpenters neglect. Caulking will not likely remain unbroken for long with wetting/drying, freezing/thawing, heating/cooling, etc. I usually use a square of 15 lb. felt.
Just yesterday at the Builder's Trade Expo in Worcester, MA, Mike Guertin demonstrated doing this with a rectangle of aluminum coil stock with Hardi Siding.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
I use vicor peices about 3" wide.
Smile. It could be worse. You could be me working for you.
Thanks I am on a condo board getting some replacement done and do not know where the line is between "good trade practice" and something that needs to be spelled out in the quote/contract/
As Mojoman said, this is a detail many neglect. I vote spell it out.Smile. It could be worse. You could be me working for you.
Cut strips of 30lb felt paper. Some use flashing, tin was used years ago, but felt paper does the job just as well.
mike