Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 30, 1999 10:45am | #1

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   Check with Main Wood Heat Co. ([email protected]) They have water jackets in a couple sizes. They mostly deal with masonry heaters and associated hardware.

   David

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   Guest_ | Jan 31, 1999 12:42pm | #2

   *Kelly: In 1984-85, I installed about 2 dozen stainless steel heat exchangers into existing woodstoves in conjunction with solar domestic hot water systems. Although they were made for particular stove models, you could make your own by bending 3/4 or 1-inch stainless and thread the ends. Easiest to make are simple U's but a double-J put more HX in the stove. Gotta make sure it will fit, won't interfere with the dampers and can be cleaned easily - as a cool surface, it will soot up quickly. A snap-switch or any other kind of thermostat to detect stove operation and turn on a pump is needed as is some P+T blow off in case of pump or power failure. We got special T-release valves with long stems and mounted them right at the stove with a vent line daylighting outside the hose in a dry well. P-release can be anywhere on the loop. Sorry I don't have names and numbers for you, but I wasn't the one ordering parts then.Consider having such a wood stove conversion produce domestic hot water. That can pay back quickly if hot water is currently heated electrically. -David

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 31, 1999 04:44pm | #3

   *Dave, I figured you'd be reponding to this thread...your practical, hands-on, nuts and bolts information has always been helpful. Can you add any information as to how you made the stove-wall penetrations and any suggestions about the best ways to re-seal them?Thanx,Brian

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 31, 1999 05:14pm | #4

   *About 20 years ago a friend built his own, based on a commercial model he had seen. Basically two steel cylinders set one inside the other but not concentric so the space between was greater on one side (top). Had the plates rolled to cylinders by a commercial shop. He welded the seams himself and welded on endplates to create a water jacket, with a door in the front to feed wood into the firebox in the center. Welded pipe fittings into the water jacket and installed regular circulator to the existing HW heat system. Had a blow out valve on the jacket. Had a thermostatic damper on the firebox door. So two points: if you're a good welder /plumber / electrician you can do it all yourself OR all the bits and pieces are either off the shelf or readily fabricated and you can get it put together. There are commercial units out there as well.

2. 
   RKELLY | Jan 31, 1999 09:14pm | #5

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   In addition, what brand of stove would you guys reccommend in the price range of $500-$1000.00
   I have priced soapstone stoves in the $1500's. I would also buy a used stove. Maybe someone has pulled a stove off a job and would sell it?? Thanks for your input.

3. 
   Guest_ | Feb 01, 1999 08:48am | #6

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   Brian, thanks for the comp. I learned more of value for my life as an engineer by working as a plumber for a year than in 4 years at Berkeley, Chem Eng.

   We used a regular bi-metallic hole saw (cylinder of steel with teeth on the perimeter of one end, mounted on an arbor). Takes a minimum of 2 people, perferably 3. One works the drill, the second keeps adding oil or cutting fluid. If there's a third person, s/he keeps checking for plumb and square advising, "up a bit", "left a little", "that's good", etc. Without oil, you'll toast a bit in less than one hole and eventually make it through only by a slow-speed, abrasive/sacrificial effect. With continous oil, a good bit will do 10-20 holes in 3/16" cast iron. Always have an extra bit around, once toasted, it takes 15 minutes instead of 2.

   We would place nuts on the inside of the HX, test the fit and adjust the nuts for level, then mount it with stove sealing compound packed around the hole before threading on the outside nuts. Because they were threaded in a continuous thread (like those lamp mounting nipples) instead of a regular tapered pipe thread, I'd use the belt-and-suspenders approach of teflon tape AND dope when screwing on the copper thread x sweat adaptor.

   Just got back from a week of sea kayaking in Baja to -30F weather here in Alaska. Maybe I should've missed my plane. -David

4. 
   RKELLY | Feb 01, 1999 08:52am | #7

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   Are there any systems available for retrofitting hot water base board heat with a wood burning stove? I would like to bipass and or suppliment a system I'm designing for a job.